Australian Chardonnay sadly lost its ways in the late 1990’s/early 2000’s. Too many wines were a victim of over-manipulation by winemakers all to keen to imprint (or should we say inflict) their personality on the wine; 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel (much of it new) was the norm. The end product was rich, buttery (sometimes butterscotch) and oaky wines that initially carried favour, but soon became rather tiring.
A lot has changed in the past 10 or so years. We now know which regions are best suited to the Chardonnay grape. Vines in regions such as Tumbarumba and the Mornington Peninsula are now mature, and producing quality fruit. It is also fair to say that the current generation Australian winemakers understands how to get the best out of this wonderful grape, which is a relatively recent newcomer to our shores.
Two recently tasted examples, the 2010 Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay and 2008 Cassegrain Fromenteau Reserve Chardonnay, illustrate just how far things have progressed. Both possess 'cool' fruit, are savoury, mineral and emphasis finesse over power. Yes, the oak is present, but in a supporting role, adding complexity rather than being domineering. One thing is for sure, these wines should age well in bottle as well.
You want to know the other good thing about Australian Chardonnay? It doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Fine examples such as these can be had for well under $50 a bottle. So go on, renew your acquaintance with a long lost friend. You won't be disappointed.
2010 YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY
Producer: Hoddles Creek Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $17.99
Date tasted: 19 January 2012
Tasting Note:
Pale straw. Enticing bouquet of white peach, green apples, cashew, clove and cinnamon, which flow through to the palate. Medium bodied, savoury and elegant. Clearly a sophisticated Chardonnay, one that should improve with 3-4 years cellaring and hold for up to 8 years, perhaps longer. Excellent value.
Score: 17/20
2008 FROMENTEAU RESERVE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Cassegrain
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Tumbarumba, New South Wales
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 26 January 2012
Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Clean and fresh nose of lime/lemon citrus, Bramley apples, white peaches and a hint of vanilla oak. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. The nose flows through to the palate, delivery fresh citrus fruit and tart apples buttressed by subtle and well integrated oak. All in all, this is yet another well assembled contemporary cool climate Australian Chardonnay that is stylistically a million miles apart from the butterscotch laden oak bombs of times past. Should develop further complexity in bottle over the next few years.
Score: 16.5+/20
A lot has changed in the past 10 or so years. We now know which regions are best suited to the Chardonnay grape. Vines in regions such as Tumbarumba and the Mornington Peninsula are now mature, and producing quality fruit. It is also fair to say that the current generation Australian winemakers understands how to get the best out of this wonderful grape, which is a relatively recent newcomer to our shores.
Two recently tasted examples, the 2010 Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay and 2008 Cassegrain Fromenteau Reserve Chardonnay, illustrate just how far things have progressed. Both possess 'cool' fruit, are savoury, mineral and emphasis finesse over power. Yes, the oak is present, but in a supporting role, adding complexity rather than being domineering. One thing is for sure, these wines should age well in bottle as well.
You want to know the other good thing about Australian Chardonnay? It doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Fine examples such as these can be had for well under $50 a bottle. So go on, renew your acquaintance with a long lost friend. You won't be disappointed.
2010 YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAYProducer: Hoddles Creek Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $17.99
Date tasted: 19 January 2012
Tasting Note:
Pale straw. Enticing bouquet of white peach, green apples, cashew, clove and cinnamon, which flow through to the palate. Medium bodied, savoury and elegant. Clearly a sophisticated Chardonnay, one that should improve with 3-4 years cellaring and hold for up to 8 years, perhaps longer. Excellent value.
Score: 17/20
2008 FROMENTEAU RESERVE CHARDONNAYProducer: Cassegrain
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Tumbarumba, New South Wales
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 26 January 2012
Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Clean and fresh nose of lime/lemon citrus, Bramley apples, white peaches and a hint of vanilla oak. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. The nose flows through to the palate, delivery fresh citrus fruit and tart apples buttressed by subtle and well integrated oak. All in all, this is yet another well assembled contemporary cool climate Australian Chardonnay that is stylistically a million miles apart from the butterscotch laden oak bombs of times past. Should develop further complexity in bottle over the next few years.
Score: 16.5+/20
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