This was the question posed at Melbourne’s Armadale Cellars on a rather turbulent spring evening. Proprietor Phil Hude, a man who has been known to imbibe the odd bottle of Grange, assembled an interesting selection of 12 wines, including 2006 Penfold’s Grange. For those present, the questions were simple – a) could we pick Grange blind, and b) how does Grange measure up to the large field of wannabes?
Although many, including yours truly, failed to correctly identify the Grange, the tasting (all 12 wines were shown blind, and evaluated in flights of 4) served to underline the high quality of premium Syrah/Shiraz in Australia and the diversity of styles produced throughout Australia’s fine wine growing regions.
From a remarkably high quality line up, 2008 O’Leary Walker Shiraz from the Clare Valley (with a touch of McLaren Vale fruit blended in) stood out for value for money. At around $20 per bottle, this fruit of the forest laden beauty is a steal; elegant and fruit driven with potential for further development in bottle.
Also extremely impressive were two wines from Giaconda’s Rick Kinzbrunner, 2009 Beechworth Shiraz, a single barrel bottled exclusively for Armadale Cellars, and 2009 Giaconda McClay Road Shiraz. Keeping with the Giaconda house style and their cool climate Beechworth origin, these wines have more in common with the northern Rhone than traditional burly Australian Shiraz. They emphasise finesse and elegance, coupled with pristine raspberry fruit, gamey complexity and a touch of funk.
Also in the cool climate vein, 2009 Shaw & Smith Shiraz is all about elegance, further evidence, if it was needed, that Australian Shiraz is much more than just a one trick pony. In spite of its origin in warm Heathcote, 2009 Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz also doffs its cap to the Old World, with a savoury and meaty palate. It’s not surprising as the winemaker we has guided the ascent of quality at Taltarni is a Frenchman.
Moving up to the really serious stuff, 2010 Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock lived up to this marque’s fine reputation, displaying a wonderfully fine bouquet of bilberry, blueberry, blackberry and plum. Of course, it’s oh-so young, but stash it away for a decade or two and patience will undoubtedly be rewarded.
2008 Pike’s The EWP Shiraz was more in the typical bold, warm climate Australian Shiraz mould, with layers of tar, blackberry and oak derived complexity. It’s a big, brawny steak friendly Shiraz that needs a good slumber in the cellar before it sees the light of day again.
2008 Pondalowie Special Release Shiraz from Bendigo is also a heavyweight, deep impenetrable crimson in colour, creamy and slightly unctuous in texture, high in alcohol. It’s a big full flavoured wine for those of a hedonistic bent.
Star of the show, and wine of the night for this camper was 2008 Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz. At $75 a bottle, it doesn’t come cheap, but you could buy 6 bottles of Tappa Pass at the price of one bottle of Grange and still have change in your pocket. It may be a newcomer to the Henschke stable, but Tappa Pass is by no means the poor cousin of Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, it is a fine wine in its own right meriting its steep pricetag.
What of the 2006 Grange? Undoubtedly, the 2006 is another excellent Grange. Yes, there’s lashings of American oak, but most of that has already been swallowed up by the high quality fruit. Not a blockbuster, it’s a rather elegant Grange, a wine that should reward good stint in the cellar. Is it worth the money? Maybe, maybe not. Suffice to say, with the plethora of quality Shiraz produced in Australia and diversity of styles from elegant cool climate wines to rich and spicy blockbusters, there’s something out there for most palates and budgets.
Although many, including yours truly, failed to correctly identify the Grange, the tasting (all 12 wines were shown blind, and evaluated in flights of 4) served to underline the high quality of premium Syrah/Shiraz in Australia and the diversity of styles produced throughout Australia’s fine wine growing regions.
From a remarkably high quality line up, 2008 O’Leary Walker Shiraz from the Clare Valley (with a touch of McLaren Vale fruit blended in) stood out for value for money. At around $20 per bottle, this fruit of the forest laden beauty is a steal; elegant and fruit driven with potential for further development in bottle.
Also extremely impressive were two wines from Giaconda’s Rick Kinzbrunner, 2009 Beechworth Shiraz, a single barrel bottled exclusively for Armadale Cellars, and 2009 Giaconda McClay Road Shiraz. Keeping with the Giaconda house style and their cool climate Beechworth origin, these wines have more in common with the northern Rhone than traditional burly Australian Shiraz. They emphasise finesse and elegance, coupled with pristine raspberry fruit, gamey complexity and a touch of funk.
Also in the cool climate vein, 2009 Shaw & Smith Shiraz is all about elegance, further evidence, if it was needed, that Australian Shiraz is much more than just a one trick pony. In spite of its origin in warm Heathcote, 2009 Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz also doffs its cap to the Old World, with a savoury and meaty palate. It’s not surprising as the winemaker we has guided the ascent of quality at Taltarni is a Frenchman.
Moving up to the really serious stuff, 2010 Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock lived up to this marque’s fine reputation, displaying a wonderfully fine bouquet of bilberry, blueberry, blackberry and plum. Of course, it’s oh-so young, but stash it away for a decade or two and patience will undoubtedly be rewarded.
2008 Pike’s The EWP Shiraz was more in the typical bold, warm climate Australian Shiraz mould, with layers of tar, blackberry and oak derived complexity. It’s a big, brawny steak friendly Shiraz that needs a good slumber in the cellar before it sees the light of day again.
2008 Pondalowie Special Release Shiraz from Bendigo is also a heavyweight, deep impenetrable crimson in colour, creamy and slightly unctuous in texture, high in alcohol. It’s a big full flavoured wine for those of a hedonistic bent.
Star of the show, and wine of the night for this camper was 2008 Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz. At $75 a bottle, it doesn’t come cheap, but you could buy 6 bottles of Tappa Pass at the price of one bottle of Grange and still have change in your pocket. It may be a newcomer to the Henschke stable, but Tappa Pass is by no means the poor cousin of Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, it is a fine wine in its own right meriting its steep pricetag.
What of the 2006 Grange? Undoubtedly, the 2006 is another excellent Grange. Yes, there’s lashings of American oak, but most of that has already been swallowed up by the high quality fruit. Not a blockbuster, it’s a rather elegant Grange, a wine that should reward good stint in the cellar. Is it worth the money? Maybe, maybe not. Suffice to say, with the plethora of quality Shiraz produced in Australia and diversity of styles from elegant cool climate wines to rich and spicy blockbusters, there’s something out there for most palates and budgets.
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