Brettanomyces, known affectionately (or perhaps with disdain) as brett, has long divided winemakers, critics and consumers. This yeast can taint the character of a wine and is, from a purely technical standpoint, a fault. Yet, in some regions, one might argue that brett (when moderate) is part of the style of the wine, adding complexity, rather than detracting.
In Australia, the popular school of thought has tended to look upon brett as a negative, a fault to be avoided, a flaw that detracts from a wine that would otherwise be clean. But where does one draw the line between a wine that is clean but clinical, and affected by brett, but individual and engaging in a slightly odd way? Ultimately, it comes down to the drinker and their sensitivity to brett.
The 2002 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz is undoubtedly slightly ‘bretty’. Yet, in this instance, the influence of the brett is a positive, lending interest on both the nose and palate. Yes, the wine does smell a bit like dried horse manure, but it’s not an unpleasant smell, indeed it’s rather pleasant. So there we have it, 2002 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz, strictly for lovers of pooh.
2002 PEPPERTREE SHIRAZ
Producer: Mitchell
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 22 January 2012
Tasting Note:
Plum red fading slightly at the rim. A little bit of brett on the nose, regional menthol, dusty dried herbs. Starts with sweet fruit, but this recedes with exposure to air to reveal a savoury and fully mature wine that is quite funky; slightly earthy, black olive and yes again, brett. In this instance, the brett adds real complexity to an interest to a wine that might otherwise fail to sparkle. While not for technocrats, there is a reasonable amount of pleasure to be had here, but drink up.
Score: 16/20
In Australia, the popular school of thought has tended to look upon brett as a negative, a fault to be avoided, a flaw that detracts from a wine that would otherwise be clean. But where does one draw the line between a wine that is clean but clinical, and affected by brett, but individual and engaging in a slightly odd way? Ultimately, it comes down to the drinker and their sensitivity to brett.
The 2002 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz is undoubtedly slightly ‘bretty’. Yet, in this instance, the influence of the brett is a positive, lending interest on both the nose and palate. Yes, the wine does smell a bit like dried horse manure, but it’s not an unpleasant smell, indeed it’s rather pleasant. So there we have it, 2002 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz, strictly for lovers of pooh.
2002 PEPPERTREE SHIRAZProducer: Mitchell
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 22 January 2012
Tasting Note:
Plum red fading slightly at the rim. A little bit of brett on the nose, regional menthol, dusty dried herbs. Starts with sweet fruit, but this recedes with exposure to air to reveal a savoury and fully mature wine that is quite funky; slightly earthy, black olive and yes again, brett. In this instance, the brett adds real complexity to an interest to a wine that might otherwise fail to sparkle. While not for technocrats, there is a reasonable amount of pleasure to be had here, but drink up.
Score: 16/20
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