NV DELGADO ZULETA LA GOYA MANZANILLA XL EN RAMA - I'M SO EXCITED!

Delgado Zuleta’s La Goya is a solid, spritely everyday Manzanilla. Drunk fresh, it is uncomplicated and lively. La Goya Manzanilla XL En Rama, smartly presented in a 500ml is an altogether more serious wine. For lovers of Fino and Manzanilla, it doesn’t come much better than this. ‘Nuff said! Buy a bottle and enjoy.

NV DELGADO ZULETA LA GOYA MANZANILLA XL EN RAMA
Producer: Delgado Zuleta
Variety: Palomino Fino
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Jerez, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 21 September 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Immediately complex nose of freshly baked sourdough, sea-spray/ozone, brine, freshly lemon zest, green apple, creamed honey and brioche. Medium bodied, fine, compact and elegant. Superbly balanced palate – everything is in the right place – every bit as complex on the palate as the nose with a similar profile. Outstanding.
Score: 18/20

2008 MASCARELLO BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE SANTO STEFANO DI PERNO - KNOCK ON WOOD

In the past few decades Barbera has well and truly shaken off its workhorse tag to emerge as one of northern Italy’s truly great varieties. Barbera has an affinity with new oak, though the approach to so-called ‘super-Barberas’ varies from one producer to another.

The name Mascarello stands tall in Piedmont – Giuseppe Mascarello is one of the great traditionally minded Barolo producers, Monprivato being among the very best wines made in the region each year. The estate also does a pretty good job with Barbera.

The Barbera Santo Stefano di Perno 2008 is a lusciously endowed wine with a typical Barbera fruit profile overlaid by smoky oak. Approaching a decade on from vintage, there is a lot to enjoy about this wine, but there is sufficient depth to carry it for several more years. At under half the price of the Mascarello Barolos, it is a good alternative for those wanting to experience Mascarello without the expense.

2008 MASCARELLO BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE SANTO STEFANO DI PERNO
Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2008
Region: Piedmont, Italy
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 21 September 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby in appearance. Interesting nose of cherry, dark plum, freshly polished leather, woodsmoke and roasted spice. Medium bodied, supple in texture, rich but balanced and in proportion. Lovely mix of opulence and elegance. Oak is prominent, but well handled in a Rioja Reserva sort of a way. Typical Barbera acidity kicks on the finish. Plenty of time to run.
Score: 17.5/20

2012 TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO ‘CERVIDONI’ ROSSO PICENO - VOLARE

Rosso Piceno is far from the best known Italian appellations, yet for one reason or another, we have looked at two examples in the past few weeks on these pages. If this example is anything to go by, Rosso Piceno is worthwhile exploring in more detail.

This wine showcases both Montepulciano and Sangiovese with notes of cherries, dark chocolate and a slightly wild element, all of which work well together. It is very much an ‘Italian’ wine, with a pleasant rusticity. Enjoyed with appropriate food, one can not argue! 

2012 TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO ‘CERVIDONI’ ROSSO PICENO
Producer: Tenuta di Tavagnino

Variety: Montepulciano, Sangiovese

Vintage: 2012

Region: Le Marche, Italy

ABV: 14.0%

Closure: Natural cork

Retail Price: $28.00

Date tasted: 3 September 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of toasted fennel seeds, sage, dark chocolate and tar. Dry, medium bodied, dark, gamey, meaty and savoury – the nose flows through to the palate – starts round and silky, but finishes with rustic (not coarse) tannins. Slightly inky (not in a bad way). Very enjoyable when consumed in the right context.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 THE STORY WESTGATE VINEYARD MARSANNE ROUSSANNE VIOGNIER - BLENDED

We are seeing a growing number of Rhone-styled white blends appear on the market today, not just from expected regions such as the Barossa Valley. Indeed, in the shape of MRV (Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier) blends, we have a white Rhone blend to sit alongside GSM’s. It is a blend that works extremely well, the Marsanne providing texture and white stonefruit, Roussanne acidity and Viognier its exotic apricot blossom aromatics.

Few in Victoria do the ‘MRV’ style better than Rory Lane under his label, The Story. The 2014 Westgate Vineyard Marsanne Roussanne Viognier is a restrained and classy expression of the genre that delivers equally on texture, flavour and aromatics. While there is plenty to like now, it should become more expressive with a further year or two in bottle.

2014 THE STORY WESTGATE VINEYARD MARSANNE ROUSSANNE VIOGNIER
Producer: The Story
Variety: Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
Vintage: 2014
Region: Grampians, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 25 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright goldish yellow. Aromatic nose of nectarine, pear, apple, orange zest and apricot blossom. Mid-weight in body, restrained for the style, gentle and supple, with good intensity and overall balance. Asssured and well balanced. Should develop well in bottle over 3-4 years.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY - DEAL

Over the past several years, the folks at Hoddles Creek Estate have built up a deservedly strong reputation for high quality and excellent value for money Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The 2014 Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay lives up to its predecessors. Made to the prevailing contemporary style of Yarra Chardonnay, acid provides the structure. However, there is more than enough fruit to flesh the wine out. Oak is very much in the background, lending gentle complexity.

There is a lovely blend of citrus, apple and stonefruit, with a subtle touch of roasted hazelnut and oak spice. The wine is crisp and fresh on the palate, suggesting only a small proportion of the wine went through malolactic fermentation.

This is a reference point for ‘value’ Australian Chardonnay. At a mere $20 per bottle, it is a genuine bargain.

2014 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Hoddles Creek
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2014
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 26 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of nectarine, green apple and lemon zest. Touch of roasted hazelnut. Medium bodied, good fruit intensity, oak is barely perceptible – ‘just there’, fruit profile is much the same on the palate as the nose. Quality Australian Chardonnay in the modern idiom and excellent value for money.
Score: 16.5/20