17 November 2011

TWO 1999 BORDEAUX BLENDS - YARRA VALLEY versus MARGARET RIVER

Back in 1999, Prince dominated the airwaves and pre-millennium fever swept the world. We looked forward to millennium eve with a mixture of excitement and trepidation. 1999 was also a pretty decent vintage in many parts of southern Australia.

Our first ‘head-to-head’ tasting takes us back to the 1999 vintage and pairs two Cabernet-based wines from a couple of Australia’s premier wine producing regions; the Yarra Valley and Margaret River. We’ve selected two top shelf producers, Yarra Yarra and Voyager Estate. 

Over a decade in bottle has seen the tannins melt into the background, yet both wines remain primary fruit driven, with no secondary complexity to speak of. Both are good wines, but one would want and, indeed expect, a bit more by way of interest given their status and price-tags. Perhaps a couple more years in the cellar will reveal whether Australia can measure up to Bordeaux in the Cabernet stakes?

1999 YARRA YARRA CABERNETS
Producer: Yarra Yarra Vineyard
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1999
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 15 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Mid ruby fading slightly at the rim. Aromatic nose of moderate intensity revealing mulberry and blackberry fruit intertwined with charcoal, mint and hung meat/charcuterie. Dry, medium bodied, plenty of up-front acidity, elegantly constituted, soft barely perceptible tannins, sweet fruited but savoury; mulberry, bilberry and blackberry. Although more than a decade post-vintage, the wine is still very much primary fruit driven, though the tannins have softened and are fully integrated. It will be interesting to see if secondary complexity develops. As it stands, it’s drinking well now, but should improve with another 2-3 years cellaring.
Score: 16.5/20

1999 VOYAGER ESTATE CABERNET MERLOT
Producer: Voyager Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1999
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 14.2%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 15 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby fading very slightly at the rim. Bold, forward nose of briar, cassis and lead pencil. There’s just a hint of green peppercorn. The palate is medium to full bodied and primary fruit driven; plum, briar and cassis. As is the case with the Yarra Yarra, the tannins are soft and fully integrated, yet the wine offers little by way of secondary complexity. Perhaps that will emerge with a few more years bottle ageing?
Score: 16/20

1999 PETALUMA SEMILLON BOTRYTIS ESSENCE - COONAWARRA NECTAR

Coonawarra wouldn’t ordinarily be top of one’s list for fine botrytis affected stickies; Cabernet Sauvignon perhaps, but not sweet wines. Back in 1999, Petaluma bottled a botrytis Semillon, a one-off release. Bottled at a modest 9.6% ABV, it has stood the test of time in the cellar well thanks to an incredible amount of residual sugar. Thankfully, there’s just enough acidity to hold the wine in check. It’s a good enough if not outstanding sweetie, one to stump your wine geek mates in an options game, or for those who like it really sweet.

1999 PETALUMA SEMILLON BOTRYTIS ESSENCE
Producer: Petaluma
Variety: Sweet Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 1999
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 9.6%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 375ml
Date tasted: 15 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Mid-golden amber. Mature nose of toffee and honeycomb. Rich, full bodied, thick, viscous and mouth filling. Super sweet, almost tooth achingly so. Thankfully, there’s just enough acidity to carry it. Works well as a dessert in its own right, or with a pungent salty cheese like Roquefort.
Score: 15.5/20

2002 DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON - A SWEET CLASSIC

De Bortoli’s Noble One is something of an ‘Aussie classic’. Since the debut 1982 vintage beat Chateau d’Yquem in a blind tasting, this Sauternes of the antipodes has had a loyal following and deservedly so. In the early noughties there was a school of thought that the Noble One had perhaps lost its way a little, and wasn’t the ageworthy gem of old. Based on the recent tasting of a 2002 from half bottle, one can only say that the Noble One is ageing as well as ever. This particular bottle, sealed under cork, was remarkably fresh, with a hint of honey being the only suggestion of emerging maturity. Although drinking well now, well cellared bottles should keep for many years to come (pending, of course, the vagaries of cork).

2002 DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON
Producer: De Bortoli
Variety: Sweet Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2002
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 375ml
Date tasted: 17 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Lustrous golden yellow. Vibrant lively nose of fresh apricots, yellow peaches and honey. Equally fresh and vibrant on the palate; apricots and peaches again. Very good length and complexity. Drinking well, with potential to develop further.
Score: 17/20