2011 SONS OF EDEN 'FREYA' RIESLING - IN THE FLESH!

The 2011 vintage in southern Australia has been much derided in the wine press. The cool and wet conditions of 2011 certainly presented many challenges for vignerons. However, relatively little kudos has been given to some of the vintage’s success stories. In many cool climate regions, Chardonnay was as good as we have ever seen. In our warmer climates, 2011 produced some lovely elegant reds, albeit more medium rather than longer term propositions. Out west, it was yet another excellent vintage with Margaret River Cabernet to the fore.

Riesling also had its success stories. ‘Freya’ Riesling from Sons of Eden was one wine that impressed immensely on release. A couple of years on, it’s in good shape, albeit maturing at a fairly fast pace. The wine has really started to fill out on the palate; soft and fleshy with a gentle underpinning of acidity. There’s lovely aromatic lift and depth on display in a very pretty, Eden Valley sort of a way; this is a wine that’s more than just lemon and lime. Drinking now and over the next 5 or so years.

2011 SONS OF EDEN ‘FREYA’ RIESLING
Producer: Sons of Eden
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 18 April 2014

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow with green tinges. Delicate bouquet of greengage, grapefruit and lime blossom. Medium bodied, starting to fill out on the palate. Soft, cushioned mouthfeel underpinned by a fine prickle of acidity. Gooseberry, pineapple and grapefruit/lime pith. A touch of tangy citrus grip carries the finish. Very solid though seemingly maturing fairly quickly.
Score: 16/20

2010 DOMAINE DES ESPIERS CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES SABLET - SPICE UP YOUR LIFE!

The wines of the sprawling villages of the southern Rhône deliver plenty of drinking pleasure at a modest outlay. While generic Côtes du Rhône can be somewhat of minefield, Côtes du Rhône Villages, more specifically named villages, are often worth the extra expense.

We’ve previously seen the excellent basic Cotes du Rhone from the small, organic Domaine des Espiers. The village level wine from Sablet, is a step up in richness and intensity, but in keeping with the style by the (so-called) lesser wine. There’s plenty of juicy, pulpy drinkability on show here, and a modicum of complexity too.

2010 CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES SABLET
Producer: Domaine des Espiers
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 9 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson. Open nose of kirsch, plum liqueur, star anise, liquorice, white pepper. Full bodied, initial attack of sweet red fruit, moving to savoury on the mid-palate. Exotic spice lends complexity on the finish, which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC - WHISPERING GRASS.....

Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc is one of the truly distinctive wines made in Australia. This is no ‘by the rulebook’ stainless steel fermented herbaceous cash cow. The wine sees a combination of new and seasoned oak, as well as Italian acacia. Depending on the vintage, a touch of Riesling and/or Chardonnay is added to the mix, respectively lending aromatic lift and body. The result is a wine that owes little to Sauvignon Blanc, but is a compelling, food friendly dry white.

With a few years in bottle, the 2011 rendition of Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc is taking on complexity. It is arguably the most true to variety of Bannockburn Sauvignon Blancs we have seen in recent years, the cooler conditions perhaps exacerbating the grassier aspect of the wine. Compared to the most recent review of the same wine, it is more true to its core variety.  That said, there’s a lot here for Sauvignon lovers and haters to both enjoy, and sufficient depth to suggest it will continue to develop in bottle for another few years yet.

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2011
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 11 April 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery green. Open aromatic nose of cut grass, chopped herbs, pear, grapefruit, lemon zest. Dry, medium bodied, a Sauvignon-like Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc! Palate flows on from the nose, slightly herbaceous and grassy. Good length and extremely drinkable.
Score: 17.5/20

2012 CALABRIA PINOT BIANCO - SOLID AS A ROCK

Calabria Family Wines is the new name for family-owned Riverina producer Westend Estate. While it boasts an expansive portfolio of varietal wines, the most exciting work being done at Calabria is with alternative varietals. The Penguin is particularly impressed by the Calabria Aglianico, the 2010 of which was reviewed on these pages some time back.

While the Pinot Bianco doesn’t quite reach the lofty standards of the Aglianico, it is nevertheless an extremely satisfying wine given its modest price tag (a mere $15). Clean and fresh, with distinctive green apple and honeydew melon characters, it is the ideal wine for those who enjoy a lightly oaked Chardonnay. Medium in body, fresh and bright, with good varietal character and fruit intensity, there is little complain about here.

2012 CALABRIA PINOT BIANCO
Producer: Calabria Family Wines (formerly Westend Estate)
Variety: Pinot Blanc
Vintage: 2012
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $15.00
Date tasted: 24 April 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Clean and fresh nose of green apple, pear and honeydew melon. Fruit forward and fairly straightforward. Medium in body, slightly creamy in texture, fruit profile on the palate is much the same as the nose. Simple and direct, but very clean and well made.
Score: 15/20

2006 SPINIFEX ESPRIT - SPIRIT IN THE SKY

Spinifex is deservedly lauded for its southern French-inspired blends. Esprit, a four-way blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Shiraz and Cinsault, is a typical Barossa meets southern Rhône style. It bursts with rich and lush fruit, spice lending complexity on the finish.

All in all, the wine delivers what one expects, with reasonable complexity. While there is a good amount to like now, past experience suggests Barossan red blends such as these can be aged well beyond critics suggested drinking windows, developing considerable aromatic complexity in that time.

There’s plenty to like with this wine in a rich and fleshy, juicy fruit kind of way. Indeed, it’s a superior crowd pleaser. For this particular imbiber, it lacks for a certain je ne sais quoi, an extra layer of complexity that would elevate it from the every day to ethereal.  For those seeking secondary complexity, perhaps time is all that is needed.  Little seems to have changed with the 2006 Spinifex Esprit since it was lasted tasted almost two years ago.

2006 ESPRIT
Producer: Spinifex
Variety: Grenache et al (Mourvèdre 34%, Grenache 31%, Shiraz 30%, Cinsault 5%)
Vintage: 2006
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 26 April 2014

Tasting Note:
Saturated plum red in appearance. Rich nose of blood plums, mulberry, violet, liquorice and exotic spaces. Full bodied, lush and velvet in the mouth. Nice balance of sweet and sour, spice adding complexity on the finish. Does what it says on the label and drinking well now, but has the stuffing for age and potentially develop secondary complexity for 4-5 years.
Score: 16/20

2003 CLONAKILLA SHIRAZ VIOGNIER - SOME LIKE IT HOT....

Clonakilla is one of Australia’s most feted cool climate producers, feted for its Côte Rotie styled Shiraz Viognier. 2003 was a drought year in Murrumbateman and it reflects in the Shiraz Viognier from that vintage. At this point of its development, the wine isn’t revealing a great deal. The bouquet is rather subdued, and lacking the lifted aromatics one tends to associate with the style. Similarly, the palate is rather four-square and direct, belying the this label’s fine pedigree.

Tasting through a bottle of 2003 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, one wonders if it is more 2003 than Clonakilla. Extended airing brings out a touch of complexity, but it also exaggerates tannins on the finish. It may well be the case that this particular bottle was enjoyed at less than ideal point in the wine’s evolution, and further bottle age is all that is needed. One’s main concern is that the tannins on the finish (perhaps the mark of a drought year) fail to resolve.

2003 CLONAKILLA SHIRAZ VIOGNIER
Producer: Clonakilla
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2002
Region: Canberra District, New South Wales
ABV: 14%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson in appearance. Slightly subdued bouquet initially, but opens up to reveal red berry compote, liquorice and just a touch of black pepper. Soft and plush up-front, raspberry and dark berry fruit, camphor and charcoal. Tannins become more prominent on the finish with extended airing. Relatively straightforward at present, and lacks the finesse one associates with this label. May improve with further ageing.
Score: 15.5?/20