30 January 2012

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC - WHAT'S HE TALKIN' ABOUT?!

Favoured by the mass market, dismissed by many in the trade, Sauvignon Blanc has stolen the mantle of Chardonnay as the grape to love…..or to hate. It is fair to say they the ocean of herbaceous and (at its most commercial) sometimes off-dry Sauvignons emanating from Marlborough divide opinions. They stereotypical Marlborough Sauvignon can have a tendency to make its presence felt in a none too subtle way, rather like a contestant in a reality television show.

In Australia, we tend to gravitate to New Zealand for our Sauvignon Blanc. One doubts that this is due to some sense of moral duty to help our trans-Tasman brethren, certainly not since they well and truly whipped the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup. Simply put, it’s consistent and it’s easy. Clean, fresh, no oak and with a reliable fruit profile, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc delivers what the punters want (for the time being at least), especially given that it is more often than not drunk without food.

So what of Australian Sauvignon Blanc? It’s fair to say that Australia struggles with single varietal Sauvignon Blanc, save for the odd example from the Adelaide Hills, Tasmania, Great Southern and Orange.

Geelong’s Bannockburn winery presents the strongest case possible for the Sauvignon Blanc grape and for well made examples from cool sites. The 2011 Bannockburn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is, in fact, 90% Sauvignon Blanc blended with a dash of Riesling to provide aromatic complexity. A portion of the wine is put through barrel (French oak and Italian acacia), which contributes structure and texture. The result is a highly sophisticated Sauvignon Blanc, one that could happily grace any table, that will win over doubters.

2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc (blended with 10% Riesling)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 22 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow in colour. Delicate nose of pithy grapefruit and lemon, herbal overtones. Medium bodied, soft and savoury, lemon/grapefruit citrus to the fore. The oak has fully integrated to the point of adding textural weight rather than spice. An elegant, well constructed Sauvignon Blanc that is a million miles from the pungent examples of Marlborough. Would work very well with simple fish dishes. This is a Sauvignon Blanc that even detractors of the variety could grow to like.
Score: 17+/20

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