TWO 2000 GIGONDAS - DOMAINE SANTA DUC + CHATEAU DE ST. COSME

After Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas is arguably the stand-out appellation in the Southern Rhône. Altitude is a factor here, with some vines being grown up to 600 metres. Gigondas is capable of producing powerful, structured and relatively long-lived wines based primarily on Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, with the likes of Cinsault being added to the mix. At its best, Gigondas is sweet fruited in youth, burly and spicy, a rather rugged, masculine wine suited to similarly hearty food.

Domaine Santa Duc and Chateau de St. Cosme are two of the best producers of Gigondas, and 2000 was a pretty handy vintage in the Southern Rhône. Over a decade on, both wines are drinking well, with secondary complexity emerging. The Santa Duc is perhaps more opened and accessible, perhaps due to a higher percentage of sweet Grenache fruit. The St. Cosme is a more serious fellow, savoury and gamey, suggestive of mature Syrah and Mourvèdre.

Although the Santa Duc wins by the barest of margins, both are excellent wines and are in the slot for current drinking.

2000 GIGONDAS
Producer: Domaine Santa Duc
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2000
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bold slightly medicinal nose, raspberry coulis, lilac, mint and rosemary. Dry, full bodied, unobtrusive tannins, spicy raspberry fruit intermingled with dry herbs. Although at the highish end, the alcohol is well balanced. Delivers all of the flavour one could want from a hearty Southern Rhône red, and should hold for at least another 3 or so years.
Score: 17/20

2000 GIGONDAS
Producer: Chateau de Sainte Cosme
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2000
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Medium garnet, fading slightly at the rim. Inviting nose of raspberry coulis, spice and dried Provencale herbs. Full bodied, and packed with flavour, sweet damson/raspberry fruit, tar and Asian spices. Perhaps slightly gamier and evolved than the Santa Duc This wine is near full maturity and drinking well now.
Score: 16.5/20

SYRAH VS. SHIRAZ

It’s interesting to compare two Australian wines, both from the same grape, one grown in a warm climate reigon, the other in a relatively cool one. Both are made in a completely different style, the Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, as traditionally Australian, more particularly Barossan, as a full bodied red wine can be.

Castagna Genesis Syrah, from Beechworth, is an interloper by comparison. Stylistically, it is closer to the northern Rhône than traditional Australian Shiraz, hence it being labelled as Syrah rather than Shiraz. A decade on from vintage, it has become more Rhône like, with suggestions of hung game, white pepper and charcuterie. It is still relatively young and should be at its apogee in 4-5 years time. It’s an excellent example of the style.

The 2001 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz isn’t quite ‘in the zone’ yet and may well be in a bit of a dip. It’s still primary fruit driven, but offering relatively little by way of genuine complexity at this point in time. Based on recent evidence with a superb 1997 Basket Press Shiraz, it is premature to write this wine off; it just needs time.

2001 GENESIS SYRAH
Producer: Castagna
Variety: Shiraz/Syrah
Vintage: 2001
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
ABV: 13.8%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 17 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson fading slightly at the rim. Prototypical ‘Syrah’nose; peppery, meaty and gamey. Still very primary. Full bodied, savoury and extremely well balanced. On the palate, much the same as the nose, overlaying ripe raspberry fruit and a touch of tar. Finishes very long. A very elegant and stylish wine that has come on leaps and bounds since last tasted several years ago. Proof positive that Australia can produce ‘Syrah’ as well as big friendly Shiraz.
Score: 17.5/20

2001 BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford Wines
Variety: Shiraz/Syrah
Vintage: 2001
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 17 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bold and fruity nose, slightly medicinal (mint/menthol). Full bodied, sweet fruited but dry, prunes and damsons, velvet smooth and plush with, balanced alcohol and low acidity. All in all, this vintage of Rockford Basket Press is showing a bit polite and four square. It’s perfectly round and smooth, but there’s not a great deal of excitement on offer. A decent bottle, but not particularly complex or exciting. Needs another few years to start strutting its stuff.
Score: 16+/20

1997 & 1998 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING - MIXED EXPERIENCE

Few would argue that some years ago Jeffrey Grosset took over John Vickery’s mantle of ‘King of Riesling’. Year in year out, Grosset Polish Hill Riesling sets the benchmark as far as Australian Riesling is concerned. Normally austere, rather reserved and perhaps a touch difficult on release, it blossoms with time in bottle to reveal pithy citrus fruit intertwined with stony minerality.

Cork has long been a source of frustration for many Riesling producers keen to retain the pristine clarity of their wines. Jeffrey Grosset moved to bottling under screw cap in the 2000 vintage. A tasting of a few bottles from late 1990’s vintages demonstrates just how variably these wines have developed when sealed under cork.

1997 was hailed as a great year for Clare Valley Riesling on release. Yet, with bottle age, many bottles have flattered to deceive. So it was with the first bottle of 1997 Polish Hill Riesling to be opened. Like several from the same vintage before it, the wine was one-dimensional, slightly oxidised, flat and tired. A subsequent bottle tasted a few days later was nearing maturity, but was holding together well and delivered plenty in terms of complexity.

According to Jeffrey Grosset, 1997 was a ‘freak’ year, initially hot and with an extended ripening period, one that wasn’t expected to go the long haul, though some bottles have bucked the trend.

By contrast, recent experiences with the 1998, quite a warm year in the Clare Valley, have shown it to be relatively backward, zippy acidity sharing centre stage with lemon/lime citrus. On this showing, better bottles of the 1998 should have at least a decade up their sleeve.

1999 seems to be heading towards full maturity at a faster rate than the 1998; the palate has broadened and honeyed development has emerged.  Unfortunately, the bottle sampled in this instance suffered from low level TCA.

Looking back on these wines reveals some of the qualities of the Polish Hill terroir, and the skill of the winemaker. Unfortunately, all too often though, the limitations of the cork closure seem to have resulted in wines that have developed prematurely and/or inconsistently. It will be interesting to have a taste of a 2000 Polish Hill shortly.

1997 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Golden amber. Not maderised or oxidised, but very developed. Simple apple fruit on the nose, reflected on the palate. Lacks freshness. Not as flat or clearly oxidised as other 1997 Polish Hill Rieslings, but something clearly is not right here.
Score: Faulty – not rated

1997 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 6 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Mid-gold. Mature nose of honey, lemon/lime marmalade, slightly toasty. No petrol or kerosene whatsoever! Dry, quite oily in texture, lime zest and honey, bitter grapefruit. Still alive, quite vibrant and really quite complex – an enjoyable drink.
Score: 16.5/20

1998 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1998
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 19 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Very clean, fresh and vibrant nose, still youthful; lemon zest, kaffir lime and talc. Dry, medium bodied, quite mineral, typical Clare Valley lemon/lime, barest hint of honeyed maturity. This wine has barely moved in the past 6-7 years! Youthful austerity has disappeared and the wine has started to fill out. Excellent! Well cellared, it should keep for another 10 or more years. What one wants and expects from Polish Hill Riesling!
Score: 17.5/20

1999 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1999
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Evolved yellow gold. Muted nose showing the classic signs of TCA.
Score: Faulty – not rated

2005 TEUSNER JOSHUA – A BENCHMARK SOUTHERN RHONE BLEND

Kym Teusner’s brilliant Teusner Joshua is a working example of just how far Australian vignerons have come with Grenache-based Southern Rhône blends. When such blends became à la mode in the 1990’s there was a tendency among some producers to throw too much new oak at them, often to the detriment of the wine.

Those familiar with the Southern Rhône will know that many of the region’s greatest producers apply a gentle touch when it comes to new oak, or eschew it altogether. It is only in some of the more flashy new wave ‘super-cuvées’ where we see the use of new oak exceeding 50%.

It is refreshing therefore, to see one of the Barossa’s young guns fashioning a brilliant GSM blend that has seen no wood whatsoever. Tank fermentation allows the high quality old vine fruit sourced by the team at Teusner to shine through, resulting in a wine that reflects the spicy nature of its component parts, and their warm Barossa Valley origin. Indeed, it’s fair to say that Joshua wouldn’t be out of place among a line-up of quality Southern Rhône wines.

Although delicious on release, it is a wine that will age, at least over the medium term. Tasted six years on from vintage, the 2005 Teusner Joshua was still primary fruit driven, yet to enter the realm of savoury secondary development.

2005 TEUSNER JOSHUA
Producer: Teusner
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2005
Region: Various regions, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 5 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bold spicy nose of star anise, black pepper, licorice and blackberries. Rich, full bodied, soft, smooth and voluptuous - sexy stuff indeed! Primary fruit up-front, but finishes savoury. An extremely satisfying drop, but dangerously moreish.
Score: 17.5/20

2002 LEO BURING RIESLINGS

There is little that needs to be said about legendary Riesling label Leo Buring.  Anyone who has drunk some of the great Leo Buring Rieslings from the 1970’s made under the watchful eye of John Vickery knows just how good these wines can be and their capability to age.

2002 was an excellent Riesling vintage throughout South Australia. Almost a decade on, it seemed like a good idea to see how the various Leo Buring releases were performing. Moreover, it was a chance to see how the wines had been served by their Stelvin screw cap closures. Class certainly prevailed in this line-up, with the unevolved 2002 Leo Buring Leonay Watervale Riesling DW F18 standing head and shoulders above its more modest brethren. The wine is ageing gracefully under screw cap and should evolve for at least another 10 years in good cellaring conditions. Interestingly, his bottle was less advanced than an equally good but somewhat more developed 2005 Leo Buring Leonay Eden Valley DW tasted a few days later.

Both the 2002 Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling and 2002 Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling are showing some development, though the Clare Valley Riesling possesses better structure and fruit intensity. Priced at no more than $15 on release, they represent good value medium term cellaring propositions. Once again, the use of screw caps instead of cork has preserved the aromatic freshness of the wines – no cork taint or oxidation here, nor any sign of reduction.

2002 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Fresh nose of moderate intensity showing lime/kaffir lime leaf and a hint of minerality. Medium bodied, quite open, lemon/lime fruit, honey starting to emerge. Decent length.
Score: 16/20

2002 CLARE VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 23 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Prototypical Clare Valley Riesling nose of lemon zest and lime. Broader and fuller than the Eden Valley Riesling, but with an underbelly of zesty acidity suggesting a longer life ahead. Maturing, but showing relatively little development thus far.
Score: 16+/20

2002 LEONAY WATERVALE RIESLING DWF18
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 30 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon yellow with a greenish tinge – looking at this wine, one would think it is 3-4 years old, not nearly a decade post vintage. Grapefruit pith, lemon zest and chalky minerality. Acidity provides much of the structure to this excellent wine. Although it can be enjoyed in now, there is plenty in the tank, promising much for the future.
Score: 17+/20

YOU SAY SHIRAZ, I SAY SYRAH!

To many of a vinous persuasion, Australia is synonymous with rich, burly Shiraz, not peppery and gamey Syrah that harks from the northern Rhone. Yet, there are a good number of Australian producers, especially in slightly cooler climates that have sought to produce a wine that is more Syrah than Shiraz. One such producer is the Yarra Yarra.

A tasting of two Yarra Yarra Syrahs from the late 1990’s showed that both had captured the essence of Syrah. Indeed, it would not be easy to pick these wines as Australian (and not from the northern Rhone) if tasted blind. This is proof positive, if ever it were needed, that Australia is much more than a one trick Shiraz pony.

1998 SYRAH
Producer: Yarra Yarra Vineyard
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 1998
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 30 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Mid garnet, showing maturity. Developed nose, animale, hung meat, salami, slightly earthbound. Meatier than the lighter 1999. Medium bodied and savoury, very much ‘Old World’ in style. A bit more intense though slightly less complex than the 1999. Would match with beef or venison very well.
Score: 17/20

1999 SYRAH
Producer: Yarra Yarra Vineyard
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 1999
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 20 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Mid ruby fading to pale garnet at the rim. Meaty and gamey nose showing a touch of smoky bacon – this is most definitely Syrah! Dry, very savoury, medium bodied, peppery, smoked venison. Tasted blind one would easily mistake this wine for a very good St. Joseph. Rather delicious and drinking well now.
Score: 17.5/20

CULLEN - POWERHOUSE CHARDONNAYS

There isn’t much that can be said or written about Margaret River’s Cullen winery that hasn’t already been put to paper. Acknowledged as one of Australia’s finest wineries, Cullen has a strong following in Australia and in key export markets. Cullen’s Chardonnay has long been regarded as one of Australia’s best; finely honed, with high quality French oak.

Two examples of Cullen Chardonnay reflect the style of winemaking that prevailed at the time at the dawn of the new millennium. Both wines are quite heavily worked, undergoing 60% malolactic fermentation and seeing 100% new French oak. Both are rich, full bodied powerhouse wines, displaying quality of the raw materials and astute winemaking.

Although the recent trend in Australia has been towards a reduction in the use of new oak and less malolactic fermentation, these traditionally styled, but very high quality Margaret River Chardonnays hold up very well.

The wines tasted were from the 2001 and 2002 vintage, the former sealed under cork, the latter under screw cap. Both wines clearly showed the same vineyard and winemaker stamp, the 2002 (bottled under screw cap) being ever so slightly fresher. In this case, the 2001 has held up very well under cork.

2001 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Cullen Wines
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2001
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 16 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of creamy peach, custard apple, red apples and honey. Dry, full bodied, slightly more evolved on the palate than the nose, creamy butterscotch, peach and apple. Nearing full maturity, this is an excellent full throttle Chardonnay that has held up well under cork.
Score: 17/20

2002 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Cullen Wines
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2002
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 16 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Golden yellow with a slight greenish tinge. Slightly fresher and less advanced than the 2001, though the nose and palate deliver much the same. Once again, the oak is fully integrated and the alcohol is somewhat obtrusive. Rich, full bodied, a powerful and full flavoured Chardonnay at the peak of its drinking. There’s real depth and intensity here. It’s a big wine, but is extremely well balanced and long on the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

RICHMOND GROVE RIESLING - JOHN VICKERY + SCREWCAP = WINNER

In the late 1990’s Richmond Grove was one of the first producers to seal its Riesling under screw cap. With Riesling master and former Leo Buring winemaker John Vickery at the helm, it should be no surprise that there were some pretty smart Rieslings made under the Richmond Grove label.  The Richmond Grove Rieslings weren’t expensive, selling at around $10 per bottle by the case through the major liquor retailers. But the big question is how the wines would develop under screw cap.

According to the back label, use of the screw cap, in favour of cork, would ensure a cellaring life of up to 30 years. Some claim indeed, but on the evidence of this bottle of 1999 Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling, one can’t argue with it. 12 years on, the wine is perfectly fresh, with just a suggestion of development. It should comfortably make it to 25 years of age, provided one can keep one hands on the remaining few bottles!

1999 WATERVALE RIESLING
Producer: Richmond Grove
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1999
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia 
ABV: 12.0% 
Price: N/a  
Closure: Screw cap 
Format: 750ml 
Date tasted: 16 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright yellow with a greenish tinge. Very clean (clean as a whistle), fresh and lively on the nose. Typical Clare Valley Riesling notes of lemon and lime, with just a touch of kerosene suggesting some development. Relatively few signs of maturity on the palate, indeed there’s still a youthful ripple of petillance running through the wine. Shows like a 4-5 year old wine sealed under cork. A ringing endorsement of the Stelvin closure.
Score: 16.5+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: DALWHINNIE

Nestled in the hills overlooking the village of Moonambel, the Jones family at Dalwhinnie has been quietly producing wines of exceptional quality for around 30 years.  There can be little doubt that Dalwhinnie Shiraz, a wine of elegance, finesse and complexity, is one of Australia's best.  Remarkably consistent, it delivers typical Pyrenees 'sweet and savoury' forest fruit, supported by judicious oak.

The Eagle Shiraz is a burlier version, dark, dense and brooding.  In recent years, two other super-premium Shiraz have joined the line up, Pinnacle, from high altitude vines grown over quartz, and

South West Rocks, from south-west facing vines grown over rocky soils.  The South West Rocks Shiraz is the star here, delivering real finesse and great purity.  At $80 per bottle, it doesn't come cheaply, but those with deep pockets might just be tempted to take a punt on a few.

Of the other wines in the Dalwhinnie line-up, the Chardonnay is an excellent example of the worked style, and the Cabernet Sauvignon has a long life ahead of it.  For those not able or willing to venture north of $50 per bottle, the Tin Pot range, 'bistro-style' wines designed for relatively early drinking are a good introduction to the Dalwhinnie house style.

For this punter, taking into account price and quality, there is only one way to go, the outstanding Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz.

2011 THE HUT ROSÉ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $20.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
100% Pinot Noir barrel fermented in used oak casks. Delicate and elegant strawberry and raspberry fruit. Finishes bone dry with good length.
Score: 16/20

2010 THE HUT PINOT NOIR
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
100% whole bunch fermentation. Slightly stalky nose of rhubarb and cherry, earth notes. Dry, medium bodied, elegant with straightforward creamy raspberry fruit.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 THE HUT SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $28.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Fruit is sourced from younger vines on the valley floor that tend to produce more generous yields than those at higher altitudes. The wine sees a short elevage in in 4-5 year old oak. Violet, cherries and cracked pepper. Very elegant and seamless. A class act for a bistro style wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL CHARDONNAY
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $42.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Forward melon and apple fruit bound by high quality oak. Slightly creamy in texture. Altogether, a very fine Chardonnay that shows excellent balance and poise. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $58.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pretty perfumed nose of violets, cherries, plum and kirsch. Ripe sweet confit cherry and plum fruit leads the palate, which is medium bodied and elegant. Finishes long and savoury with suggestions of forest floor. All in all, this is an extremely well balanced and elegant Shiraz, already displaying considerable complexity. It deserves to be ranked as one of Australia’s best.
Score: 18.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL CABERNET
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Although labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, there’s a small percentage of Cabernet Franc (5%) and Merlot (5%) blended into this premium wine. Alluring and attractive nose of cherry, plum and blackberry, reflected on the palate. Notwithstanding the velvet texture, powdery tannins provide ample structure and should ensure that the wine is relatively long lived. Finishes long and savoury.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 PINNACLE SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $80.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From the highest altitude vines on the estate, planted in 1987 over quartz. Vinified like a Burgundy in small open fermenters, prior to being transferred to 60% new oak for elevage. Dense plum and morello cherry fruit, smoky oak. Rich and full bodied, sweet fruited with fine grained seamless tannins. Oak is extremely well integrated in this highly polished wine. Touch of alcohol heat on the finish detracts ever so slightly.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 SOUTH WEST ROCKS SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $80.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From south-west facing vines planted over poor rocky soils in 1995. The wine receives similar vinification to the Pinnacle Shiraz. Quite a spicy nose with suggestions of bacon fat, floral notes. Elegant and suave, svelte texture, very elegant. Dark cherry and raspberry fruit carry the wine which is at one sexy and highly refined. Outstanding.
Score: 19/20

2005 EAGLE SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2005
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Price: $150.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
For many years, this has been Dalwhinnie’s flagship wine, sourced from vines planted on the mid-slope. Bottled under cork, forthcoming releases will be sealed under screw cap. Brooding, bold and serious nose of dried Provencale herbs, plum and blackberry and woodsmoke. Dry and richly flavoured, but elegant. Beguiling mouthfeel with a lovely silky texture. Touch of aged complexity starting to show, though this wine should continue to develop for many years yet.
Score: 18.5/20

2002 TAHBLIK MARSANNE - SAFE AS HOUSES

Tahblik Marsanne is as Victorian as a day out at the footy.  As the world's largest holder of Marsanne vines, it produces substantial volumes of fine, ageworthy Marsanne.  Widely distributed in Melbourne and throughout Australia, it is a vinous bargain when (as it often is) offered on discount.

While all too many bottles of Tahbilk Marsanne, it is a wine that rewards cellaring.  The recently tasted 2002 and 2003 were in fine form, the latter displaying greater freshness.  The move to screw cap seems to have paid off here; greater longevity and no worries about premature oxidation.

Tahblik Marsanne is a wine to buy by the case year in and year out.  Forget it for 5-7 years, dig a bottle out of the cellar and enjoy the its classical signature notes of acacia, honeysuckle and peach.  It's a winner and guaranteed to put on the smile on the face of your guests over a Sunday lunch of roast chicken (or pork) and all the trimmings.

2002 MARSANNE
Producer: Tahbilk
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2002
Region: Nagambie Lakes, Victoria
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 November 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright yellow gold. Alluring developed prototypical mature Marsanne bouquet of honeysuckle, creamed honey and pears. Bottle age has seen the palate fill out, now quite full bodied, masking fine acidity. This is mature Marsanne as too few get to see it. Although it is perhaps only moderately complex, it delivers plenty of sensuous textural pleasure and a certain amount of intellectual indulgence. When sold on offer, Tahbilk Marsanne is one of the world’s great wine bargains. Drinking superbly now – cries out for Roast Chicken.
Score: 16/20

2003 MARSANNE
Producer: Tahbilk
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2003
Region: Nagambie Lakes, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 November 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright yellow verging to straw. Clean and fresh nose of white peaches and lemon zest. Medium bodied, good line and length, again in the white peach and lemon zest vein. This bottle is mid-development, substantially less evolved than the 2002 – no signs of honeysuckle as yet – is it down to vintage or the screw cap closure? Should keep for up to 5 more years. Enjoyed with Osso Bucco.
Score: 16.5/20

LEVIN WINES GAMAY CÔT - BRING ON THE PICNIC

For those not acquainted with Levin Wines, it is a Loire Valley winery owned by David Levin, hotelier/restaurateur and owner of London’s prestigious Capital Hotel.

Levin Wines focuses on food friendly wines that are loyal to their Loire Valley origins. Among the line up are a Rosé (made from the Gamay grape), oaked Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay and a distinctive Gamay Côt blend.

While Gamay excels in Beaujolais and contributes to some lovely easy drinking wines when blended with Pinot Noir in Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, there are some lovely examples to be found in the Loire Valley. In this instance, Gamay is blended with Côt, (the local name for Malbec), resulting in a dry, light to medium bodied wine with crunchy berry fruit and a touch of ironstone minerality.

It’s not the sort of wine that will garner high points from the big name critics, but it is an authentic country wine that one could enjoy equally in a rustic setting with a baguette and some paté de campagne, or in a fine dining environment.

2009 GAMAY CÔT
Producer: Levin Wines
Variety: Gamay, Côt (Malbec)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $16.99
Date tasted: 29 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright raspberry red. Straightforward bouquet of lavender, blackcurrants and underbrush. Dry and very savoury (perhaps too dry for some Australian palates), crunchy redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit. A lovely albeit relatively simple wine to enjoy lightly chilled outdoors on warm summer evenings.
Score: 15/20

I'M NOT DRINKING F--KING MERLOT

Merlot, it can divide tastes. Away from the Right Bank of Bordeaux, it can be awfully mundane, at best playing a bit part role in filling the mid-palate of Cabernet Sauvignon. Single varietal Merlot in Australia has somewhat of a chequered history, often delivering round and supple wines that offer little by way of genuine depth and structure.

Petaluma is one of relatively few quality producers that treats Merlot seriously. The 2001 Petaluma Merlot, is undoubtedly an ambitious example, slick new French oak overlaying intense plum-laden fruit. As yet, it offers relatively little by way of complexity, and only modest interest. At face value, it is a take it or leave it wine. However, a 1996 of the same wine, confirms that there is good reason to ‘keep the faith’. It has taken on secondary evolution and shows depth and complexity rarely seen in Australian Merlot. So, if you’ve got a few bottles of the 2001, just be prepared to leave them for a few more years. On the evidence of the 1996, patience will be rewarded.

2001 MERLOT
Producer: Petaluma
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2001
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bottled after 18 months in new French oak. Saturated dark plum fruit married with high class charry oak. Full bodied with a smooth, satin-like texture, smoky oak overlaying dark plum and blackberry fruit, touch of liquorice on the finish. While clearly a well made wine, it is a little bit soulless at present, needing further time in bottle to develop complexity.
Score: 16+/20

2002 ROCKFORD CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (BELL) PEPPER

Although there are a number of good examples of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Barossa Valley, it is not a region that always delivers varietal character when it comes to this regal grape. However, the 2002 Rockford Rifle Range Cabernet Sauvignon can only be Cabernet; sweet cassis and blackberry set the stage, followed by a big whack of bell pepper. Read the textbooks, and this overt bell pepper could be down to under-ripe grapes. Pyrazines are compounds that are present in the Cabernet Sauvignon grape and contribute the bell pepper character; they gradually dissipate with sunlight as the grapes ripen.

Whether or not you like or dislike your bell peppers, the Rifle Range Cabernet Sauvignon is a rich, but well balanced wine at the mid-point in its maturation cycle. The tannins have softened, but there’s plenty of life in the wine as yet; one to check on in 3 or 4 years time.

2002 RIFLE RANGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2002
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 6 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Bell pepper, blackcurrant and blackberry, slightly resinous. Medium bodied, soft tannins, sour plum, damson and blackberry, bell peppers. Touch of pencil shaving oak. The bell pepper character is quite pronounced, and could be off-putting for some. Drinking well now, and should evolve further over the next 5 or so years.
Score: 16/20

FULIGNI BRUNELLO - IT'S AUTHENTICO

1999 was a superb vintage in Tuscany, arguably better than 1997. The quality of the vintage is reflected in the exceptionally good 1999 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino. Traditionally crafted and matured in large oak rather than new barriques, it is remarkably svelte and suave.

There are no suggestions of overcooked fruit or lashings of sweet oak. What one gets in a wonderful example of mature, slightly autumnal Sangiovese that is long on the palate and complex. Drinking well now, it is an authentic Brunello di Montalcino - no Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon here – it’s the ‘Real McCoy’.

1999 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
Producer: Fuligni
Variety: Sangiovese Grosso
Vintage: 1999
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 1 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Svelte, silkily textured and extremely sexy – medium bodied and very elegant. Traditional old school Brunello that accentuates terroir and savoury fruit rather than over-ripeness, over-extraction and excessive oak. A pleasure to drink and should hold for a few more years.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC - WHAT'S HE TALKIN' ABOUT?!

Favoured by the mass market, dismissed by many in the trade, Sauvignon Blanc has stolen the mantle of Chardonnay as the grape to love…..or to hate. It is fair to say they the ocean of herbaceous and (at its most commercial) sometimes off-dry Sauvignons emanating from Marlborough divide opinions. They stereotypical Marlborough Sauvignon can have a tendency to make its presence felt in a none too subtle way, rather like a contestant in a reality television show.

In Australia, we tend to gravitate to New Zealand for our Sauvignon Blanc. One doubts that this is due to some sense of moral duty to help our trans-Tasman brethren, certainly not since they well and truly whipped the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup. Simply put, it’s consistent and it’s easy. Clean, fresh, no oak and with a reliable fruit profile, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc delivers what the punters want (for the time being at least), especially given that it is more often than not drunk without food.

So what of Australian Sauvignon Blanc? It’s fair to say that Australia struggles with single varietal Sauvignon Blanc, save for the odd example from the Adelaide Hills, Tasmania, Great Southern and Orange.

Geelong’s Bannockburn winery presents the strongest case possible for the Sauvignon Blanc grape and for well made examples from cool sites. The 2011 Bannockburn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is, in fact, 90% Sauvignon Blanc blended with a dash of Riesling to provide aromatic complexity. A portion of the wine is put through barrel (French oak and Italian acacia), which contributes structure and texture. The result is a highly sophisticated Sauvignon Blanc, one that could happily grace any table, that will win over doubters.

2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc (blended with 10% Riesling)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 22 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow in colour. Delicate nose of pithy grapefruit and lemon, herbal overtones. Medium bodied, soft and savoury, lemon/grapefruit citrus to the fore. The oak has fully integrated to the point of adding textural weight rather than spice. An elegant, well constructed Sauvignon Blanc that is a million miles from the pungent examples of Marlborough. Would work very well with simple fish dishes. This is a Sauvignon Blanc that even detractors of the variety could grow to like.
Score: 17+/20

1998 MOUNT PLEASANT LOVEDALE SEMILLON - IT'S A STAYER

Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon is one of Australia’s wine icons. Picked relatively early while high in acidity, it is fermented to under 12% ABV. Patience has always been the credo with Lovedale Semillon. It needs at least a decade to develop the signature notes of honey and buttered toast that has made aged Hunter Semillon such an iconic and distinctive wine.

Sealed under natural cork, the 1998 Lovedale Semillon remains at no more than mid-development on its evolutionary path. Gone is the edgy, almost battery acid like acidity of youth, but the wine remains remarkably zesty and fresh, with little suggestion of maturity. On this evidence, the wine needs at least another three years in bottle, if not, 5 or 6. One can only wonder how long more recent vintages, sealed under screw cap, will take to evolve.

1998 MOUNT PLEASANT LOVEDALE SEMILLON
Producer: McWilliams
Variety: Semillon
Vintage: 1998
Region: Hunter Valley, New South Wales
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 26 November 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow – little apparent development. Clean nose, remarkably backward, lemon squirt with the barest hint of lanolin suggesting evolution. The palate too is remarkably backward, clearly a good cork seal here; at the lighter end of medium bodied, relatively simple zesty lemon at present – hard to believe this is a 13 year old wine! Acidity still plays the leading role here. On this evidence, remaining bottles should be left for another 3 or more years.
Score: 17/20

2005 CHALMERS AGLIANICO - ITALIAN WITH AN AUSTRALIAN ACCENT

This is our second sortie into the food friendly wines of Chalmers. The grape this time is Aglianico, originating in southern Italy. The best known DOC’s are Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture. Typically, it produces medium to full bodied wines with notes of chocolate, cherry and spice, firm tannins and noticeable acidity.

This effort from Chalmers goes a long way to capturing the essence of the grape variety, with sourish cherry fruit and fresh, food friendly acidity. On this evidence, it is one to watch in the future.

2005 AGLIANICO
Producer: Chalmers Wines
Variety: Aglianico
Vintage: 2005
Region: Murray Darling, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 25 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Mid ruby red, relatively light in colour. Open nose of spicy fruit cake and candied fruit. Slightly volatile. Dry, medium bodied, a savoury food style, plenty of acidity, cranberry, raspberry and a touch of gentle spice. With its vibrant acidity and dry palate, it is well suited to rich tomato based ragus, Bolognese for one.
Score: 16/20

2002 MITCHELL PEPPERTREE SHIRAZ - NOT FOR TECHNOCRATS

Brettanomyces, known affectionately (or perhaps with disdain) as brett, has long divided winemakers, critics and consumers. This yeast can taint the character of a wine and is, from a purely technical standpoint, a fault. Yet, in some regions, one might argue that brett (when moderate) is part of the style of the wine, adding complexity, rather than detracting.

In Australia, the popular school of thought has tended to look upon brett as a negative, a fault to be avoided, a flaw that detracts from a wine that would otherwise be clean.   But where does one draw the line between a wine that is clean but clinical, and affected by brett, but individual and engaging in a slightly odd way? Ultimately, it comes down to the drinker and their sensitivity to brett.

The 2002 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz is undoubtedly slightly ‘bretty’. Yet, in this instance, the influence of the brett is a positive, lending interest on both the nose and palate. Yes, the wine does smell a bit like dried horse manure, but it’s not an unpleasant smell, indeed it’s rather pleasant.   So there we have it, 2002 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz, strictly for lovers of pooh.

2002 PEPPERTREE SHIRAZ
Producer: Mitchell
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 22 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Plum red fading slightly at the rim. A little bit of brett on the nose, regional menthol, dusty dried herbs. Starts with sweet fruit, but this recedes with exposure to air to reveal a savoury and fully mature wine that is quite funky; slightly earthy, black olive and yes again, brett. In this instance, the brett adds real complexity to an interest to a wine that might otherwise fail to sparkle. While not for technocrats, there is a reasonable amount of pleasure to be had here, but drink up.
Score: 16/20

FRANC-LY MY DEAR......

Be it Chinon, Bourgueil, St Nicolas de Bourgueil or just Anjou Villages, Loire Valley Cabernet Franc remains highly unfashionable. While the very top wines from Bordeaux command thousands of dollars a bottle, a good example of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc costs no more than $50 per bottle, sometimes considerably less.

The 2009 Anjou Villages Sur Schistes (grown on schistous soil) from leading producer Château Pierre-Bise, actually a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a wine that can not be replicated outside of the relatively cool climate of the Loire Valley. Just medium in body, it delivers a refined palate of vibrant dark berry fruit. Savoury and with lively acidity, it is immensely food friendly, and would be glorious with a roast leg of lamb or rib of beef. It possesses fruit depth and a tannic framework only seen exceptional vintages. This beauty is best left for at least 5 years and should keep for or a decade or so thereafter. At less than $25 per bottle, it is a veritable bargain.

2009 ANJOU VILLAGES SUR SCHISTES
Producer: Château Pierre-Bise
Variety: Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon
Vintage: 2009
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 7 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Concentrated nose of cassis, essence of summery berry fruit. Quite tight on the palate, plenty of structured fine grained tannins. This is a wine that needs time, at least 5 years. Plenty of vibrant dark berry fruit when one digs beneath the tannins, cherries, plums and blackcurrant. In the modern wine context, this is a veritable bargain, particularly when compared to current prices for red Bordeaux. Cellar for at least 5 years before approaching.
Score: 17+/20

TIME TO GET BACK ON THE CHARDONNAY TREADMILL

Australian Chardonnay sadly lost its ways in the late 1990’s/early 2000’s. Too many wines were a victim of over-manipulation by winemakers all to keen to imprint (or should we say inflict) their personality on the wine; 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel (much of it new) was the norm.  The end product was rich, buttery (sometimes butterscotch) and oaky wines that initially carried favour, but soon became rather tiring.

A lot has changed in the past 10 or so years.  We now know which regions are best suited to the Chardonnay grape.  Vines in regions such as Tumbarumba and the Mornington Peninsula are now mature, and producing quality fruit.  It is also fair to say that the current generation Australian winemakers understands how to get the best out of this wonderful grape, which is a relatively recent newcomer to our shores.

Two recently tasted examples, the 2010 Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay and 2008 Cassegrain Fromenteau Reserve Chardonnay, illustrate just how far things have progressed.  Both possess 'cool' fruit, are savoury, mineral and emphasis finesse over power.  Yes, the oak is present, but in a supporting role, adding complexity rather than being domineering.  One thing is for sure, these wines should age well in bottle as well.

You want to know the other good thing about Australian Chardonnay?  It doesn't cost an arm and a leg.  Fine examples such as these can be had for well under $50 a bottle.   So go on, renew your acquaintance with a long lost friend.   You won't be disappointed. 

2010 YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY
Producer: Hoddles Creek Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $17.99
Date tasted: 19 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale straw. Enticing bouquet of white peach, green apples, cashew, clove and cinnamon, which flow through to the palate. Medium bodied, savoury and elegant. Clearly a sophisticated Chardonnay, one that should improve with 3-4 years cellaring and hold for up to 8 years, perhaps longer. Excellent value.
Score: 17/20

2008 FROMENTEAU RESERVE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Cassegrain
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Tumbarumba, New South Wales
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 26 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Clean and fresh nose of lime/lemon citrus, Bramley apples, white peaches and a hint of vanilla oak. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. The nose flows through to the palate, delivery fresh citrus fruit and tart apples buttressed by subtle and well integrated oak. All in all, this is yet another well assembled contemporary cool climate Australian Chardonnay that is stylistically a million miles apart from the butterscotch laden oak bombs of times past. Should develop further complexity in bottle over the next few years.
Score: 16.5+/20

NIGHT OF THE HUNTER

All too often, Australian Shiraz is stereotyped as being monolithic, alcoholic and lacking elegance, certainly not a wine to enjoy with refined food. While this image may well be correct of a select number of wines from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, the reality is somewhat different.

The 2009 Sweetwater Shiraz from Andrew Thomas Wines is evidence, if ever needed, that Australian Shiraz can be elegant, refined and individual. One wouldn’t confuse it with something from the northern Rhone; it’s unashamedly Hunter Valley. What it does possess is wonderful clarity and fruit purity, modest alcohol, elegance and genuine refinement.

How will it age? Who can say for sure. Suffice to say, there is sufficient fruit intensity, fine grained tannins and fresh acidity for it to be cellared with confidence for at least 15 years. At under $35 per bottle, it is extremely well priced, given the inherent quality.

2009 SWEETWATER SHIRAZ
Producer: Andrew Thomas Wines
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Hunter Valley, New South Wales
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $34.99
Date tasted: 28 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep magenta. Youthful nose of cherry, mulberry, blackberry and liquorice, lavender/lilac. Dry, medium bodied, elegant and savoury, sour cherries and dark plums, liquorice and star anise. Acidity is bright and vibrant lending refreshment value and making the wine very food friendly, even at this early point in its evolution. There is sufficient structure here for the wine to develop in bottle for 15 or more years.
Score: 18/20

THIS WALLFLOWER IS NO SHRINKING VIOLE

Larry Cherubino is a highly regarded Western Australian producer, so highly rated that his winery garnered the gong, 'Winery of the Year' in James Halliday's 2011 Wine Companion.

The 2011 Wallflower Riesling, widely available and selling at just over $15 a bottle gives illustrates the difference between Great Southern Riesling and its Clare Valley and Eden Valley brethren.  What we have here is a more delicate example of the Riesling grape.  Yes, there is lime in abundance, but it comes over with lifted aromatics and is very well mannered, neither austere nor stern.

All in all it's a good Riesling that would win over Sauvignon Blanc drinkers.  It's not particularly complex or exciting, but it makes a more pleasant drink in warm weather.

2011 AD HOC WALLFLOWER RIESLING
Producer: Larry Cherubino
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $16.99
Date tasted: 28 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Clean nose dominated by green characters; lime, grapefruit, lemongrass and fresh coriander. Slightly off-dry, very clean, fresh and zesty. Straightforward and not particularly complex, but drinks oh so easily on a warm summer day. Although the wine is drinking well now, it should develop in bottle for 5-6 years.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 DOMAINE BEGUDE L'EXOTIQUE - BLIND OPTIONS NIGHTMARE!

Now this is a wine that would be a nasty test in a blind options test – Grüner Veltliner, filled out with a dash of Chardonnay, from the Pyrrenean foothills in south-west France. Try picking that one!

Notwithstanding the fact that it’s a bit of a fish out of water, this effort from English-owned Domaine Begude is rather decent, displaying typical Grüner notes of grapefruit zest and dill. It’s not an earth shatteringly complex wine, but it’s fresh, lively and food friendly.

2010 L’EXOTIQUE, IGP HAUTE VALÉE DE L’AUDE
Producer: Domaine Begude
Variety: Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 3 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale yellow with green tinges. Distinctive nose of white pepper, grapefruit pith, white nectarines and dill. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and crisp palate with racy acidity, greengage, white grapefruit. A very fresh and vibrant wine that displays decent Grüner Veltliner varietal character, especially for a wine produced in the Pyrennean foothills.
Score: 16/20

AUSSIE CHARDONNAY - NO LONGER JUST FOR LUMBERJACKS

Mount MacLeod is the second label of Gippsland producer Caledonia Australis. Made by Martin Williams MW, the Mount MacLeod Chardonnay a further illustration of how far Australia has progressed with the Chardonnay grape.  Gone are the days of 100% malolactic fermentation and barrel ferment, oak and winemaker influence providing a supporting role, rather than dominating one.

The 2009 Mount MacLeod Chardonnay displays a lovely balance of peach and nectarine stonefruit intermingled with high quality spicy oak. It is a good quality Chardonnay, one the should develop further complexity in bottle for 2-3 years.

2009 MOUNT MACLEOD CHARDONNAY
Producer: Caledonia Australis
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Gippsland, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 7 January 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Clean nose of cashew, nectarine, white peach, clove and nutmeg. Dry, medium bodied, white stonefruit, green apples, well integrated oak. An excellent Chardonnay for the money, that should develop well in bottle for a further 2-3 years.
Score: 16.5/20

1999 + 2000 ORLANDO ST HUGO - FAR FROM LES MISERABLES

While the folks at Pernod Ricard may have re-branded St Hugo and brought it under the Jacob’s Creek banner, there is little doubt that, year in year out, it is one of the best Cabernet Sauvignons made in Coonawarra.

A recent tasting from the 1999 and 2000 vintages demonstrated just how good St Hugo can be. Full bodied, with good fruit intensity and well integrated oak, both wines have just entered their drinking windows and should provide pleasure for a good number of years to come. There’s not a huge amount of complexity thus far, but a few more years in bottle should see it emerge.  The 1999 is a better wine than the 2000 and should hold for longer.

1999 ST. HUGO CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Orlando
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1999
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 14%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 23 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep saturated crimson. Bold forward nose of cassis, plum and smoky oak. Sweet fruited, blackcurrant pastilles, plums and charry oak, all framed by quite prominent structured tannins. It’s hard to believe that this is a 12-year old wine as it looks and tastes like it’s just been bottled! Needs at least 3-4 years, and should develop well thereafter.
Score: 17+/20

2000 ST. HUGO CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Orlando
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Vintage: 2000
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 13%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 8 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright nose of cassis, plum and smoky oak, with baked earth in the background. Full bodied, quite voluptuous, velvet texture. Saturated cassis, dark plum and forward but well integrated oak. Extremely well made and drinking well now, but with the potential to improve.
Score: 17/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: BAROSSA VALLEY - ROCKFORD

For anyone raised in South Australia, Rockford is a Barossa Valley winery that has almost icon status. Basket Press Shiraz and the non-vintage sparkling Black Shiraz are feted to the extent that they are offered to a select group of mail order customers on allocation, no more than 6 bottles of each per customer.

On evidence of a tasting of current releases, as well as a couple of gems from the museum collection, the reds continue to be the stars at Rockford. That said, the 2007 Local Growers Semillon is one to look out for. At under $20, it represents excellent value and should develop well in bottle for up to 5 years.

Of the big name reds, the 2009 Basket Press Shiraz is in fine form. Such is the tannin management that the wine slides easily down the gullet now. Rest assured, there’s no lack of structure here, and there’s oodles of high quality old vine fruit to see this wine well into its second decade.

Also impressive is the 2009 Rifle Range Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays true varietal character, something not always associated with Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and should keep well for at least a decade.

The latest N.V. Black Shiraz, disgorged just a couple of months back, was frankly rather tight and taut, not revealing much of its potential. Judgement should really be reserved for a couple of months. Past experience suggests that bottle age will see the wine settle down and develop spicy complexity.

Good as many of the other Rockford wines undoubtedly are, star of the current line-up is the 2003 Shiraz V.P., a single vineyard Shiraz fortified with locally distilled 12-year old spirit. It’s rich, sweet up-front, savoury on the finish, with complex layers of prune and black cherry fruit entwined with exotic spices. Although delivering plenty of pleasure now, it should age well in bottle for many years to come.

2009 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2009
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: %
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $20.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Quite delicate and elegant. Pithy grapefruit and stony minerality. A rather gentle and polite Riesling. Perhaps could do with a bit more fruit intensity. Decent enough value, but there are better examples of Eden Valley Riesling out there.
Score: 15/20

2004 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2004
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Touch of kerosene on the nose. Slightly honeyed and oily in texture. Rounded, but rather simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2007 LOCAL GROWER’S SEMILLON
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Semillon
Vintage: 2007
Region: Barossa Valley & Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.2%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $18.50
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Made using fruit sourced from the Barossa Valley floor and Eden Valley. A small percentage of the wine sees wild barrel fermentation. Quite textured; creamy, but not too weighty on the palate. Melon and peach, touch of honey, vanilla and subtle oak spice. All in all, a very good wine, and excellent value. Better than either of the two Rieslings. Should develop well in bottle over the medium term.
Score: 16.5/20

2007 MOPPA SPRINGS
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2007
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Blend of Grenache (55%), Mourvèdre (30%) and Shiraz (15%). Elegant, savoury, meaty and spicy. Not a heavyweight at all, indeed, rather fine and elegant. Although showing just moderate complexity at present, a recent bottle of the 1998 Moppa Springs demonstrates that this wine can age well in bottle, developing layers of spicy complexity. 
Score: 15+/20

2003 MOPPA SPRINGS
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2003
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $28.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Sweet raspberry coulis on the nose. Full and fleshy with suggestions of tar, star anise, clove and cinnamon. Drinking well now, but shows only modest complexity. 
Score: 15/20

2008 ROD & SPUR
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $30.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Blend of Shiraz (53%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (47%). Subtle spicy oak intermingled with red fruits. Dry, medium bodied; like the Moppa Springs, this is not an overoaked warm climate monster. In fact, it is rather elegant. Quite classy. Both elements are well balanced and the oak is well integrated. Tight at the moment, but should open out over the medium term. 
Score: 16/20

2009 RIFLE RANGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $37.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note: Surprising varietal for a Barossa Valley Cabernet! Blackcurrant pastilles and underbrush. Ripe black fruit framed by very fine powdery tannins. Well balanced acidity and alcohol. Finishes long. 
Score: 16.5/20

2009 BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Barossa Valley & Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $54.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Matured in a combination of new and used American and French oak barrels. Full bodied, rich and fleshy. Excellent fruit intensity; blackberry, plum and cherry. Oak is subtle and well integrated, allowing the fruit to speak for itself. Finishes long with very fine, slightly puckering tannins. Should have a long life ahead of it. An excellent Rockford Basket Press! 
Score: 17+/20

2003 SVS HOFFMAN SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2003
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $85.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard wine, made solely from pressings wine and matured in 100% new American oak. Very deep in colour for a wine approaching 10 years of age. Intense on the nose, with very forward charry American oak. Very intense on the palate, liquorice, charry oak, roasted spices and coconut. Taut and tannic. Hint of alcohol warmth on the finish. A bit of a monster, in contrast to the other Rockford wines, which display considerable elegance and judicious use of oak. Needs plenty of time. A ‘statement’ wine. 
Score: 16+/20

N.V. BLACK SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: Non-vintage (Disgorged 2011)
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $57.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Disgorged just a couple of months ago, and a bit unyielding. Sweet cherry and plum confit, rather tight. Not strutting its stuff at this stage, but time in bottle will undoubtedly be rewarded. A subsequent tasting of Black Shiraz from magnum (triaged in 1994 and disgorged in the past 12 months) showed how well it can age, developing an almost ethereal floral bouquet. 
Score: 16.5+/20

2003 SHIRAZ V.P.
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Fortified wine – Port
Vintage: 2003
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 18.1%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $63.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
A Vintage Port style wine, made from old vine single vineyard Shiraz, fortified with locally distilled 12 year old Brandy spirit. Flamboyant nose of prune, liqueured plums and morello cherries. Rich, full bodied and sweet on the palate, fig, prune and dark spices. Like all good Ports, the finish is slightly dry, and the spirit is extremely well balanced (though at just over 18%, the alcohol is relatively low for a Vintage Port). Already showing a good amount of complexity. Really rather good, an Australian Graham’s perhaps?! 
Score: 18/20

2009 DAL ZOTTO ARNEIS - IT'S JUST OKAY

Italian varietals have become über-trendy in Australia over the past 10-15 years. Plantings of Vermentino, Fiano, Dolcetto, Lagrein and Aglianico have started to pop up throughout the country. Victoria’s cool King Valley has been a particular hot bed of activity, thanks to the efforts of growers (some with an Italian heritage) including Pizzini, Brown Brothers and Dal Zotto.

The variety we’re looking at today is Arneis, a little travelled Piedmontese grape that typically produces a likable if not too complex white wine with suggestions of stone fruit and almond. While vibrant and refreshing, and relatively low in alcohol (a modest 12%), the 2009 Dal Zotto Arneis doesn’t quite capture the essence of the grape. It’s a pleasant enough wine, quite steely, and would make a decent accompaniment to an antipasto platter, but it needs better varietal definition and greater fruit concentration.

Priced rather ambitiously at just under $30, it veers to neutrality, a trait all too common in many far more modestly priced Italian white wines.

2009 ARNEIS
Producer: Dal Zotto
Variety: Arneis
Vintage: 2009
Region: King Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $27.00
Date tasted: 19 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pale silvery white. Slightly neutral nose of pithy grapefruit and white peach. Steely palate, initially quite zesty grapefruit, opening up to reveal stonefruit. While a nice vibrant and refreshing wine, it doesn’t fully capture the essence of the Arneis grape, and is somewhat ambitiously priced.
Score: 14.5/20