31 January 2012

2002 LEO BURING RIESLINGS

There is little that needs to be said about legendary Riesling label Leo Buring.  Anyone who has drunk some of the great Leo Buring Rieslings from the 1970’s made under the watchful eye of John Vickery knows just how good these wines can be and their capability to age.

2002 was an excellent Riesling vintage throughout South Australia. Almost a decade on, it seemed like a good idea to see how the various Leo Buring releases were performing. Moreover, it was a chance to see how the wines had been served by their Stelvin screw cap closures. Class certainly prevailed in this line-up, with the unevolved 2002 Leo Buring Leonay Watervale Riesling DW F18 standing head and shoulders above its more modest brethren. The wine is ageing gracefully under screw cap and should evolve for at least another 10 years in good cellaring conditions. Interestingly, his bottle was less advanced than an equally good but somewhat more developed 2005 Leo Buring Leonay Eden Valley DW tasted a few days later.

Both the 2002 Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling and 2002 Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling are showing some development, though the Clare Valley Riesling possesses better structure and fruit intensity. Priced at no more than $15 on release, they represent good value medium term cellaring propositions. Once again, the use of screw caps instead of cork has preserved the aromatic freshness of the wines – no cork taint or oxidation here, nor any sign of reduction.

2002 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Fresh nose of moderate intensity showing lime/kaffir lime leaf and a hint of minerality. Medium bodied, quite open, lemon/lime fruit, honey starting to emerge. Decent length.
Score: 16/20

2002 CLARE VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 23 September 2011

Tasting Note:

Prototypical Clare Valley Riesling nose of lemon zest and lime. Broader and fuller than the Eden Valley Riesling, but with an underbelly of zesty acidity suggesting a longer life ahead. Maturing, but showing relatively little development thus far.
Score: 16+/20

2002 LEONAY WATERVALE RIESLING DWF18
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 30 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon yellow with a greenish tinge – looking at this wine, one would think it is 3-4 years old, not nearly a decade post vintage. Grapefruit pith, lemon zest and chalky minerality. Acidity provides much of the structure to this excellent wine. Although it can be enjoyed in now, there is plenty in the tank, promising much for the future.
Score: 17+/20

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