THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: DALWHINNIE

Nestled in the hills overlooking the village of Moonambel, the Jones family at Dalwhinnie has been quietly producing wines of exceptional quality for around 30 years.  There can be little doubt that Dalwhinnie Shiraz, a wine of elegance, finesse and complexity, is one of Australia's best.  Remarkably consistent, it delivers typical Pyrenees 'sweet and savoury' forest fruit, supported by judicious oak.

The Eagle Shiraz is a burlier version, dark, dense and brooding.  In recent years, two other super-premium Shiraz have joined the line up, Pinnacle, from high altitude vines grown over quartz, and

South West Rocks, from south-west facing vines grown over rocky soils.  The South West Rocks Shiraz is the star here, delivering real finesse and great purity.  At $80 per bottle, it doesn't come cheaply, but those with deep pockets might just be tempted to take a punt on a few.

Of the other wines in the Dalwhinnie line-up, the Chardonnay is an excellent example of the worked style, and the Cabernet Sauvignon has a long life ahead of it.  For those not able or willing to venture north of $50 per bottle, the Tin Pot range, 'bistro-style' wines designed for relatively early drinking are a good introduction to the Dalwhinnie house style.

For this punter, taking into account price and quality, there is only one way to go, the outstanding Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz.

2011 THE HUT ROSÉ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $20.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
100% Pinot Noir barrel fermented in used oak casks. Delicate and elegant strawberry and raspberry fruit. Finishes bone dry with good length.
Score: 16/20

2010 THE HUT PINOT NOIR
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
100% whole bunch fermentation. Slightly stalky nose of rhubarb and cherry, earth notes. Dry, medium bodied, elegant with straightforward creamy raspberry fruit.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 THE HUT SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $28.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Fruit is sourced from younger vines on the valley floor that tend to produce more generous yields than those at higher altitudes. The wine sees a short elevage in in 4-5 year old oak. Violet, cherries and cracked pepper. Very elegant and seamless. A class act for a bistro style wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL CHARDONNAY
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $42.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Forward melon and apple fruit bound by high quality oak. Slightly creamy in texture. Altogether, a very fine Chardonnay that shows excellent balance and poise. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $58.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pretty perfumed nose of violets, cherries, plum and kirsch. Ripe sweet confit cherry and plum fruit leads the palate, which is medium bodied and elegant. Finishes long and savoury with suggestions of forest floor. All in all, this is an extremely well balanced and elegant Shiraz, already displaying considerable complexity. It deserves to be ranked as one of Australia’s best.
Score: 18.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL CABERNET
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Although labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, there’s a small percentage of Cabernet Franc (5%) and Merlot (5%) blended into this premium wine. Alluring and attractive nose of cherry, plum and blackberry, reflected on the palate. Notwithstanding the velvet texture, powdery tannins provide ample structure and should ensure that the wine is relatively long lived. Finishes long and savoury.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 PINNACLE SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $80.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From the highest altitude vines on the estate, planted in 1987 over quartz. Vinified like a Burgundy in small open fermenters, prior to being transferred to 60% new oak for elevage. Dense plum and morello cherry fruit, smoky oak. Rich and full bodied, sweet fruited with fine grained seamless tannins. Oak is extremely well integrated in this highly polished wine. Touch of alcohol heat on the finish detracts ever so slightly.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 SOUTH WEST ROCKS SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $80.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From south-west facing vines planted over poor rocky soils in 1995. The wine receives similar vinification to the Pinnacle Shiraz. Quite a spicy nose with suggestions of bacon fat, floral notes. Elegant and suave, svelte texture, very elegant. Dark cherry and raspberry fruit carry the wine which is at one sexy and highly refined. Outstanding.
Score: 19/20

2005 EAGLE SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2005
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Price: $150.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
For many years, this has been Dalwhinnie’s flagship wine, sourced from vines planted on the mid-slope. Bottled under cork, forthcoming releases will be sealed under screw cap. Brooding, bold and serious nose of dried Provencale herbs, plum and blackberry and woodsmoke. Dry and richly flavoured, but elegant. Beguiling mouthfeel with a lovely silky texture. Touch of aged complexity starting to show, though this wine should continue to develop for many years yet.
Score: 18.5/20