18 April 2015

2010 MAIN RIDGE ESTATE CHARDONNAY - GET RICH OR DIE TRYIN'

The Mornington Peninsula is a relatively young region, even by Australian terms. Established in the 1970’s, Main Ridge Estate was the region’s first commercial winery. It has established a reputation for producing some of Australia’s best Pinot Noir.

The estate’s Chardonnay has resisted the drive toward steelier, leaner expressions of the variety and is unashamedly a fully worked wine that undergoes 100% malolcatic fermentation. The 2010 vintage release of Main Ridge Estate Chardonnay illustrates, in no uncertain terms, that there is room for richer styles of Chardonnay.

Thanks to the estate’s high elevation and resulting natural acidity, the Chardonnay carries its ‘fully worked’ badge with ease. This is not a clumsy, overworked, in your face Chardonnay, but a stylishly assembled, full bodied, superbly balanced wine.

2010 MAIN RIDGE ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Main Ridge Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $60.00
Date tasted: 11 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow with golden glints. Alluring nose of nectarine, white peach, roasted hazelnuts, melon and oak spice. Full bodied, dry and round. Plenty of ‘old school’ fully worked richness, held in check by a fine line of balancing acidity. Bold Chardonnay, that works a treat!
Score: 18/20

2012 VINS SANS FRONTIÈRES ‘LA POULE BLANCHE’ - PSYCHO CHICKEN

Former Bordeaux chateau owner Sacha Lichine has created a highly successful premium Provence rosé label in the shape of Château d’Ésclans. From the entry level Whispering Angel to the flagship Garrus (which sits at $200 per bottle!), the Château d’Ésclans rosés marry intelligent Bungundian winemaking with luxury packaging.

Lichine’s Vins Sans Frontières label, sourced from the Languedoc, is less aspirational in its positioning, and pricing. ‘La Pole Blanche’ is a well considered blend of Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Rolle, only one of which we generally associate with southern France.

The wine itself is a tidy offering, with some aromatic complexity on offer. It is made for white meats; in this instance a veal schnitzel, though chicken would also work well. At $28, it is fully priced, but there is plenty to enjoy.

2012 VINS SANS FRONTIÈRES ‘LA POULE BLANCHE’
Producer:
Vins Sans Frontières
Variety: Southern French white blend (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Rolle)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Languedoc, France
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 10 April 2015

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Interesting nose of hay, grapefruit zest, lemon blossom and toasted pine nuts. Dry, medium bodied, honeydew melon meets lemon/grapefruit citrus with a nutty overlay. Very decent, though perhaps a touch expensive for what it is?
Score: 15.5/20

9 April 2015

2012 CORTINO DOLCETTO DIANO D’ALBA - THE SWEETEST THING


For many top Barolo and Barbaresco producers, Dolcetto is very much the first rung on the ladder, the variety planted on sites not suited to or good enough for either Nebbiolo or Barbera. The ‘little sweet one’ is often talked of as the wine the ‘locals drink’ or ‘our everyday wine’.

There are some areas in Piedmont where Dolcetto prevails, one of those being Diano d’Alba, which has DOCG status for Dolcetto and Dolcetto alone. Situated to the south of the city of Alba and just north of some of the most famous communes of Barolo (namly Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba) it is well suited to the production of quality Dolcetto.

This particular example from Azienda Agricola Cortino captures the essence of Dolcetto with its bright cherry/damson fruit and noticeable lick of tannin. ‘Little sweet one’ it may be, but it is very much a wine intended for the dinner table or even, perhaps, medium term ageing.

2012 CORTINO DOLCETTO DIANO D’ALBA
Producer: Azienda Agricola Cortino
Variety: Dolcetto
Vintage: 2012
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Composite cork
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 27 March 2014

2014 DELINQUENTE ‘THE BULLET DODGER’ MONTEPULCIANO - DEGENERATE BOY

Italian varieties continue to illustrate that the warm Riverland/Riverina inland regions may offer more than being a sourced for generic branded wine of indifferent quality.

Delinquente ‘The Bullet Dodger’ is a sold example of Montepulciano. As befits the variety, it is deeply coloured, with up-front dark cherry and plum. Complex it is not, but it is yet another well executed example of an interesting Italian varietal in grown in warm inland Australia.

Dry and savoury, ‘The Bullet Dodger’ is well suited to Italian dishes of many shapes and sizes; pizza, tomato-based past a dishes and rich ragus. At under $20, it constitutes good value for money.

2014 DELINQUENTE ‘THE BULLET DODGER’ MONTEPULCIANO
Producer: Australian Wine Company
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2014
Region: Riverland, South Australia
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $18.00
Date tasted: 18 March 2015

2012 VINICOLA PALAMÀ ‘KALÁ’ SALICE SALENTINO ROSSO - THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

The red wines of southern Italy often tend to be full in flavour, with moderate alcohol and baked fruit characters. Although rarely subtle or delicate, they are well suited to robust cuisine. In this respect, the Salice Salentino Rosso ‘Kala’ from Vinicola Palamà ticks the boxes.

In three simple words, it is deep, dark and savoury. There’s not a huge amount of complexity on offer, but sufficient interest to carry one through the bottle. With it’s dark fruit profile, it is well suited to simply grilled red meats and hearty braises.

There’s a good amount of Puglian authenticity to enjoy here, if not a huge amount of complexity. Those seeking complexity from southern Italy would be well served to head for Campania or Basilicata and hunt for the best examples of Aglianico.

2012 VINICOLA PALAMÀ ‘KALÁ’ SALICE SALENTINO ROSSO
Producer: Vinicola Palamà
Variety: Negroamaro 70%/Malvasia Nero 30%
Vintage: 2012
Region: Puglia, Italy
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $22.00
Date tasted: 20 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Crimson in appearance. Cherry, tar/bitumen and baked earth on the nose. Dry, medium bodied, bitter cherry, damson, prune. Dark and brooding. Savoury in profile. Powdery tannins carry the finish. Solid, but not particularly complex.
Score: 15/20