1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC - PATIENCE

Wendouree needs no introduction to followers of Australian wine. Simply put, it is a ‘one of a kind’, producing long-lived, savoury wines that have their own distinctive identity. As many notes on these pages demonstrated, aged Wendouree can be something special – refined yet rustic, delicate yet enormously powerful, savoury and intellectual.

This bottle of Wendouree Cabernet Malbec was broached with great anticipation, but didn’t quite deliver. Aromatically, it was rather reticent, gentle notes of gravel, charcoal and graphite. By Wendouree standards, the palate was slightly sweet-fruited, perhaps a marker of the 1998 vintage.

The tannins of youth have melted back, but we are yet to see secondary evolution of note. One suspects a few more years in the cellar might be needed. Experience suggests that Wendouree wines reveal their greatest pleasure when at or near full maturity.

1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 6 May 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson through to the rim. Restrained nose of charcoal, wet earth, woodsmoke and black fruits. Medium bodied, surprisingly sweet-fruited up-front (by Wendouree standards), tannins have melted away. Dark fruits, graphite and charcoal. Little secondary evolution thus far. Revisit in a few years.
Score: 16/20

2009 CHATEAU FONTENIL - SLICK RICK

Michel Rolland is arguably the highest profile of Bordeaux wine consultants, working with customers world-wide. Rolland has built (deservedly or otherwise) a reputation for a style that is slick, round, oak forward and often Merlot heavy. He has his detractors, but no one can deny his influence in Bordeaux and beyond.

With this in mind, it seemed an appropriate time to check in on the 2009 vintage release from Rolland’s family estate in Fronsac, Chateau Fontenil. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the maker’s signature writ large on the front label, it screams ‘classic Rolland’. Cynics would not be impressed!

To the eye, the wine shows relatively little evolution, reflected on the palate, which has oak (high quality and well judged and fruit) in the driver’s seat. Notwithstanding the warm 2009 vintage, it is compact and elegant, avoiding the excesses that mark so many modern Right Bank Bordeaux wines.

At this point in its evolution, it’s not that complex. However, a lick of powdery tannin on the finish suggests that there is upside for the short to medium term.

2009 CHATEAU FONTENIL
Producer: Chateau Fontenil
Variety: Merlot (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 5 May 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Primary nose of blood plum, cassis, oak char and subtle vanilla. Medium bodied, elegant and fine. Compact, gentle dark plum and black cherry, veneer of smoky oak. Quite simple at this point in its development. Gentle powdery tannin on the finish suggests upside over the medium term.
Score: 16/20

2016 ARTUKE ‘PIES NEGROS’ RIOJA - MOVE YOUR FEET

‘Pies Negros’ translates from Spanish to English as black feet. It’s an appropriate name for a wine that is glossy crimson in appearance and leaps from the glass with cherry and plum skin. Indeed, it smells a bit like freshly feet trodden fruit.

That said and done, the wine is relatively light on its feet, weighing in at no more than medium bodied. It is a wine that does what it says and taste like what it smells like – up-front dark fruit with a savoury finish. It’s not that complex, but delivers plenty of character and drinking pleasure.

This particular bottle was very similar to a 2014 vintage of the same wine enjoyed a couple of years ago.

2016 ARTUKE ‘PIES NEGROS’ RIOJA
Producer: Bodegas y Vinedos Artuke
Variety: Tempranillo (90%), Graciano (10%)
Region: Rioja, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 27 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Attention grabbing nose of black cherry and plum skin – intense and vibrant at the one time. Medium bodied, flavour-wise the palate follows on from the nose with the same cherry/plum skin quality. Quite simple, but a decent and satisfying drink nevertheless.
Score: 16/20

2017 PARADIGM HILL TRANSITION ROSE - SERIOUS

Rose is arguably the most dynamic category in the Australian wine market at present. It seems that we just can’t get enough of the stuff. Some local vignerons have been rather slow to clock on to the lucrative market for dry rose.

For many years, Paradigm Hill has produced a very sophisticated rose based on estate grown Mornington Peninsula Shiraz. Barrel fermented, including a small percentage of new oak, it is an ambitious wine that is its own animal.

Transition Rose is not a copy of a southern French rose, but a serious, dry table wine that is made for the dinner table. The detailed back label suggests that it could be aged for 10 or more years, though one doubts that many bottles maker it beyond their third or fourth year post vintage before being consumed.

This is a classy rose with its own distinctive personality that proves that better Australian roses can more than hold their own against imports from fashionable Provence and elsewhere in Europe.

2017 PARADIGM HILL TRANSITION ROSE
Producer: Paradigm Hill
Variety: Rose
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 11.7%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 28 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Attractive nose of delicate macerated red fruits, subtle spice. Medium bodied, light and fresh, zippy citrusy acidity. Although light on its feet it is a wine that doesn’t lack for depth or fruit. Bone dry and savoury – good dinner table wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 TERRA COSTANTINO DAETNA ETNA ROSSO - EARTH, WIND AND.......

As has been alluded previously on these pages, Mount Etna is the hottest piece of viticultural real estate on the planet. This Etna Rosso displays how serious the wines of Etna can be. A typical blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, it is light in its feet, fresh and well poised.

It reminds one of a decent light Nebbiolo, albeit with slightly higher acidity and less pronounced tannins. It made a good match to aubergine and ricotta ravioli served with a tomato and basil sauce. Indeed, it is fair to say that this is a wine that needs to be served alongside food.

2015 TERRA COSTANTINO DAETNA ETNA ROSSO
Producer: Terra Costantino
Variety: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 20 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Tilled earth, truffle and spice. Very dry and savoury, medium bodied, lively acidity. Light on its feet. Needs food. Very earthbound in feel. Will appeal to Nebbiolo lovers.
Score: 16/20

2015 CLYDE PARK CHARDONNAY - BONNIE AND.......

Dollar for dollar Australia is arguably produces the best quality Chardonnay on this planet. Yes, white Burgundy at its best is without peer, but it comes at a considerable expense. There are many exceptional examples of Australian Chardonnay to be found at under $50 per bottle. That’s less than you would pay for an entry level Bourgogne Blanc from a good domaine.

Clyde Park Chardonnay is yet another delicious Australia Chardonnay. The most impressive thing about this wine is the balance of fruit, acidity and oak. It is more heavily worked than some edgy Chardonnays, but is nevertheless fresh and complex.

It is a wine without pretension that simply says ‘Drink me!’ Amen to that.

2015 CLYDE PARK CHARDONNAY
Producer: Clyde Park
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 21 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of green apple, William pear, white nectarine, grilled hazelnuts and subtle, spicy oak. Medium bodied, good fruit concentration. Nice balance of fruit and oak – well judged – a wine that its self assured and confident. Delicious drinking.
Score: 16.5/20

2003 DR LOOSEN GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING AUSLESE - STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

Dr Loosen needs no introduction to lovers of Riesling worldwide. Ernst Loosen has worked tirelessly over the past couple of decades to sell the virtues of German Riesling.

From the heatwave 2003 vintage, Loosen’s Graacher Himmelreich Auslese was approached with some trepidation. Reviews of this wine have not been particularly positive. Although not particularly complex, it is far from shot as a 15 year old.

Approaching full maturity, the wine is medium sweet with apple and pear orchard to the fore. It doesn’t boast a huge amount of acidity, but is certainly not flat or flabby. It made a perfectly decent match to roast pork belly.

2003 DR LOOSEN GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING AUSLESE
Producer: Dr Loosen
Variety: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
ABV: 8.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 21 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Evolved nose of red apples, Beaurre Bosc pear and honey. Medium sweet, round and soft, quite simple and linear, but not without interest. Pear and baked apple with the barest hint of citrus zest. Freshens up with aeration.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE - GHOST IN THE SHELL

2014 is widely acknowledged as an exceptional vintage for Chablis, delivering a near perfect balance of pristine fruit and laser-like acidity. It was also a relatively well priced vintage unlike the likes of 2016, which suffered from a very low crop thanks to a disastrous frost.

By the standards of some Chablis producers, Louis Michel is a very modern operation – temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats, screw-cap closures – for a region that has suffered its share of issues with premature oxidation, this gives the consumer a degree of confidence.

Four years on from vintage, Michel’s Montee de Tonnerre 2014 is showing fairly well, but not quite delivering the goods as yet, wanting for a touch of complexity. Revisit in a couple of years.

2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE
Producer: Louis Michel
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Chablis, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 4 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Limpid nose of lemon sherbet and grapefruit pith, touch of apple blossom. Dry, medium bodied, starting to emerge from its shell. Green apple and lemon/grapefruit citrus. Not particularly complex at this juncture.
Score: 16/20

2017 UNICO ZELO SLATE FARM FIANO - LOVE ON THE ROCKS

There is little doubt in this little camper’s mind that Fiano is the best white grape variety grown on the Italian mainland south of Rome. When grown in the chalky hills in Campania, Fiano can display great texture and a wonderful interplay of stonefruit, citrus and saline minerality. It is a definitively Italian variety that is delicious to drink and improved when served alongside appropriate food.

The couple behind Gumeracha-based winery Unico Zelo have made Fiano their signature grape. On this evidence, they are succeeding in their goal. Clare Valley grown Slate Farm Fiano is one of three examples of Fiano in the current line up, the other two originating from the Riverland and Adelaide Hills.

Notwithstanding the modest 11.5% ABV of Slat Farm, it has excellent fruit weight and depth of flavour. From a varietal perspective, it is bang on the money, saline notes lending a sense of authenticity and complexity. This is a delicious wine that holds its own against better examples of Fiano from Campania.

2017 UNICO ZELO SLATE FARM FIANO
Producer: Unico Zelo
Variety: Fiano
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 3 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright straw yellow. Toasted pine nut kernels, slightly oxidative, pink grapefruit, ozone/sea air. Dry, medium bodied, punches well above its 11.5% in terms of palate weight. Hay, toasted grains and stonefruit. Delicious and very true to the variety.
Score: 17+/20

2013 SC PANNELL ADELAIDE HILLS SYRAH - WINNER TAKES IT ALL

Steve Pannell’s CV is an impressive one – son of Bill Panell who founded Moss Wood in Margaret River, former Chief Winemaker for Hardy’s, multiple Jimmy Watson Trophy-winner – the list goes on.

Since establishing his own label, Pannell has focused on varieties that flourish in McLaren Vale’s warm Mediterranean climate. Traditional favourites Shiraz and Grenache have been supplemented by Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional.

Pannell has also extended his reach into the Adelaide Hills for Sauvigon Blanc, Nebbiolo and cool climate Shiraz. It was not surprising when Pannell, a master of the Shiraz grape, was awarded the Jimmy Watson Trophy for his Echunga-grown Adelaide Hills Syrah.

This is a classy, Australia meets the Rhone styled wine that will win over many Australian palates reared on traditional bold fruited warm climate Shiraz. There’s lots to like in this elegantly constructed modern Australian wine. It should reach its peak 10 years from vintage.

2013 SC PANNELL ADELAIDE HILLS SYRAH
Producer: SC Pannell
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 2 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Attractive nose – smoky, ground black pepper, black cherry and hung meat. Medium bodied, elegant and fine. Model of restraint. Black cherry and pepper. Light on its feet.
Score: 17/20

2011 SAMUEL’S GORGE MOURVEDRE - RAIN

The rain-tainted vintage of 2011 was written off by pretty much all and sundry before many wines had even completed fermenting, let alone spent a passage of tine in bottle. Several years on, some revisions have been made.

2011 was unquestionably an excellent vintage for sparkling wine. Chardonnay also prospered, the best examples have great structure and need more time in bottle. On this evidence, Mourvedre in McLaren Vale also did pretty well in 2011.

At 15% ABV, it is not a shy and retiring customer. This is a full-bodied wine that hits all of the Mourvedre keys. Earthy complexity is starting to emerge, but one feels there is more to come with this wine. In another 4-5 years it should look very good indeed, cork closure permitting.

2011 SAMUEL’S GORGE MOURVEDRE
Producer: Samuel’s Gorge
Variety: Mourvedre
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 17 February 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Powerful nose of dark cocoa powder, earth and saturated purple fruits. Dry, fuyll bodied, rich and powerful, savoury maturity starting to emerge. Cocoa, black fruit, slightly earthy. Powdery tannins still evident. Needs more time.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 COMANDO G ROZAS 1ER CRU GARNACHA - REVIVAL

It’s time for yours truly to ‘fess up as a fan of Grenache in all its forms. As a Grenache lover, there has never been a better time for the variety. In its southern French stronghold, there seems to have been a step back from the excess that marked the peak of Robert Parker’s reign.

Here in Australia, old vine Grenache from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale has never been treated with more respect. The best examples of single varietal Grenache set new standards for the variety and are world class wines in their own right.

Garnacha has also witnessed a major revival in Spain, most particularly in the Gredos mountains to the north of Madrid. In this part of world, elevation and old vines is producing wines of almost Pinot Noir-like elegance, with the added spicy exoticism we associate with Grenache.

Commando G has been one of the major forces behind the rejuvenation of Garnacha in Spain. Rozas 1er Cru is one of four Garnacha’s made by the Comando G team. It is Garnacha at its most fine and stylish, pale in colour, but loaded with flavour, whole-bunch fermentation lending complex earthy, undergrowth characters. On the evidence of this bottle, the 2015 will need another 3-4 years in bottle to reach its plateau of maturity.

2015 COMANDO G ROZAS 1ER CRU GARNACHA
Producer: Comando G
Variety: Grenache et al
Region: Mentrida, Spain
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 10 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Lifted nose of kirsch, strawberry, undergrowth, mulch, licorice and star anise. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, noticeable lick of tannin. ‘Twiggy’ – not the singer! Forest floor, undergrowth. Quite Pinot-like. Needs a few more years in bottle to shed the cloak of tannin.
Score: 17+/20

2016 CA’ DEI ZAGO PROSECCO COL FONDO - HIGH AND DRY

Rather like Collingwood president and media personality Eeddie McGuire, Prosecco is pretty much everywhere these days. Drinkers have been charged by light, frothy sweetness of Prosecco, a judicious dash of Aperol giving one a taste of Venetian life for a few passing moments.

Thanks to its commercial success, Prosecco has been compromised to a degree, many producers satisfied to make mainstream semi-sweet, crowd-pleasing examples. The downside is that such wines struggle to maintain one’s interest beyond a single glass.

‘Col Fondo’ comes from a different angle. It isn’t disgorged, leaving a yeast sediment in the bottle, and is fermented fully dry. The result is a wine that retains the floral apple blossom character one associates with Prosecco, but is more digestible and food friendly. One could happily enjoy this particular with wine Venetia seafood dishes, but would definitely think twice before adding a dash of Aperol!

2016 CA’ DEI ZAGO PROSECCO COL FONDO
Producer: Ca’ dei Zago
Variety: Glera
Region: Veneto, Italy
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 17 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow. Touch of yeast sediment. Subtle nose of green apple and apple blossom. Slightly funky. Gentle mousse. Dry, funky edge flows through to the palate. Crisp and fresh. Under-ripe green apples, twist of citrus. Good food style – would be great with seafood.
Score: 16/20

2016 STADT KREMS GRUNER VELTLINER - OH YEAH!

Gruner Veltliner is a variety that defines Austrian wine. Riesling-like in structure, its trademark notes of white pepper, grapefruit and dill make it a perfect match for lightly spiced foods of all types.

This entry example from the historic Stadt Krems winery in the city of Krems is on the money for varietal character and refreshment. While not particularly complex, it delivers plenty of easy-drinking pleasure for a very modest price. It is the wine you want for a mid-week supper of sushi and sashimi.

2016 STADT KREMS GRUNER VELTLINER
Producer: Stadt Krems
Variety: Gruner Veltliner
Region: Kremstal, Austria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 9 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Direct nose of grapefruit, touch of white pepper. Lighter side of medium bodied. Soft and easy. Grapefruit and lime. Straightforward and easy drinking.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 INCOGNITO CHARDONNAY - HE AIN'T HEAVY....

Incognito is a label developed by the team at Shaw & Smith to make use of young vine and bought in fruit. Both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under the Incognito label are well priced, coming in at just $20 per bottle.

Made from Adelaide Hills fruit, the 2014 Incognito Chardonnay is a straightforward wine that is very much ‘on trend’ in terms of contemporary Australian Chardonnay styles. Oak and winemaker influence are very much downplayed, allowing the fruit to take centre stage.

It is a gentle and easy drinking wine that would work very well as a crowd pleaser and for cocktail functions.

2014 INCOGNITO CHARDONNAY
Producer: Shaw & Smith
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 11 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow in appearance. Clean nose of pear, apple and grapefruit. Dry, medium bodied, very fresh and easy. Uncomplicated. Pear and apple. Negligible oak influence. Does what it says on the label.
Score: 15/20

2015 TERRA COSTANTINO ETNA BIANCO - RUNNING UP THAT HILL

If there is a wine region on the planet that is ‘hotter’ than Etna, I’d love to know what it is. To say that there is major interest in the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna would be an understatement. Angelo Gaja is the latest Italian vigneron of note to join the party.

What is the draw of Mount Etna? It seems to be a combination of its rich history, elevation, volcanic soils and endemic grape varieties – Carricante and Catarratto for white and Nerello (Macasalese and Cappuccio) for red.

Somewhat counter-intuitively, the wines of Etna are not bold and rich, but edgy and elegant. Etna Rosso is often likened to red Burgundy. On the evidence of this Etna Bianco from Terra Costantino, Etna Bianco is a ready-made alternative for Chablis.

There is real weight and depth to this wine, cut by a line of edgy acidity. Citrus fruit is to the fore of grapefruit pith and lemon zest. A saline twang on the finish lends further interest. This is a wine that is made for simply prepared seafood dishes – vongole tossed through linguine would be perfect!

2015 TERRA COSTANTINO ETNA BIANCO
Producer: Terra Costantino
Variety: Carricante, Catarratto
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 18 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Attractive nose of lemon citrus, grapefruit pith and bath salts. Dry, medium bodied, good palate weight. Nice ‘cut and drive’. Citrus pith. Slightly saline. Good drive and intensity. Excellent wine for seafood.
Score: 17/20

2015 MARC BREDIF VOUVRAY CLASSIC - SPIN, SPIN, SUGAR

The wines of Vouvray are legendary for their ability to age. Such is the case with Marc Bredif, a producer that boasts a remarkably library of aged wines going back decades. The key to the ageability of these wines is residual sugar and high natural acidity.

The current release of Bredif’s Vouvray Classic, from the 2015 vintage, carries plenty of residual sugar, held in check by lively acidity. At this point in time, it wants somewhat for complexity and is a touch one dimensional and sugary. It’s a pleasant enough and by no means cloying, but just wants for depth of fruit and genuine interest.

2015 MARC BREDIF VOUVRAY CLASSIC

Producer: Marc Bredif
Variety: Chenin Blanc
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 11 February 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Fresh, aromatic nose of pressed apple juice, apple blossom, honey. Off-dry, simple and straightforward. Sweetness is slightly assertive at this point in the wine’s evolution, sitting in front of the fruit. One dimensional baked apple fruit profile. Typical Chenin acidity on the finish. May take on more complexity with bottle age.
Score: 15/20

2017 STARGAZER TUPELO - MIXED UP

Field blends are all too infrequently seen in the Australian market today. Commercially, such wines can be high risk as they do not lend themselves to simple varietal labelling, which makes them harder to sell.

When done intelligently, blending compatible varieties makes real sense. Such is the sense with Stargazer Tupelo, a three-way blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. In this instance, the sum is very much greater than the individual component parts. There is a real sense of harmony, as well as aromatic and textural complexity to the wine.

Riesling provides the wines structure by way of acidity and fills out the mid-palate. It also lends aromatic complexity in the form of citrus and orchard fruit. Pinot Gris lends ballast and palate weight. Although it threatens to steal the show, the Gewurtraminer delivers exotic aromatic lift and spicy complexity.

Bottled with a touch of residual sugar, there is a lot to like about this wine. It is made for moderately spiced Asian cuisine of many types. It is utterly delicious and dangerously drinkable.

2017 STARGAZER TUPELO
Producer: Stargazer
Variety: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer
Region: Coal River Valley + Derwent Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 12.9%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 8 February 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow. Lifted aromatic nose of rose petal, lychee, green apple, nashi pear and spice. Just off-dry, excellent depth of flavour and structure. Gewurz spice and exotic fruit on the front palate, leading to crisp green apple and pear. Fine line of acidity carries the finish. A step up from the 2016 release. Made for judiciously spiced Asian cuisine.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 DOMAINE COLLOTTE MARSANNAY ROSE - LIFE IN A NORTHERN TOWN

Marsannay is one of the youngest appellations in Burgundy. It is also the only commune in Burgundy that has its own appellation for rose wines. If a producer made a rose wine from fruit grown in great vineyards such as Le Chambertin or Richebourg, they would only be entitled to Bourgogne Rose appellation status.

Marsannay has earned a good reputation in recent years as a source of good value red wine. On this evidence, its Marsannay Rose is also worth a look. Made from 100% Pinot Noir grown in the excellent 2015 vintage, Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rose has excellent palate weight and depth of flavour.

The fruit profile combines macerated strawberries and citrusy acidity. It’s not as complex as the outstanding Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Rose reviewed a week or two ago, but there’s a lot to like about this savoury, food friendly wine.

2015 DOMAINE COLLOTTE MARSANNAY ROSE
Producer: Domaine Collotte
Variety: Rose
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 4 February 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Bright nose of strawberry pulp and macerated fresh raspberries, floral notes. Very bright and fresh. Good palate weight and depth. Savoury and textured, fresh strawberries, citrussy acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16/20

2011 BEST’S BIN 1 SHIRAZ - EVERYONE'S A WINNER

2011 was a much derided vintage in southern Australia. So derided was 2011 that many wrote it off completely before the wines had completed fermenting let alone bottled. 2011 was certainly a vintage of challenges. However, it produced exceptional fruit for sparkling wines. The best Chardonnays of 2011 are outstanding with great drive

At Best’s in Great Western, Viv Thomson and team took the decision not to make the super-premium Thomson’s Family Shiraz or the Bin 0 Shiraz. A strict selection was made, with all of the fruit being designated for Best’s Bin 1 Shiraz. So good was the wine that it picked up the Jimmy Watson Trophy, not bad for a $30 wine!

Several years on and Best’s Bin 1 Shiraz 2011 is drinking superbly, but with time up its sleeve. With notes of black pepper and game, there is an Australia meets the Rhone character to this delicious Shiraz.

2011 BEST’S BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Screw cap
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 26 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Alluring nose of freshly cracked black pepper, confit cherries and hung game. Medium bodied, fine and well composed. Sweet black fruits interwoven with pepper, hints of charcuterie starting to emerge. Delicious – lives up to its billing.
Score: 17.5/20

2016 MOLINO A VENTO GRILLO - MEDITERRANEAN LADY

A few months back, we looked at the Nerello Mascalese from Molino a Vento. The white in the stable is made from Grillo. Simple and straightforward, this is a wine that wears its Sicilian heart on its sleeve.

Complex it may not be, but with its candied preserved lemon accented fruit, it is the perfect cantina wine for dishes such as freshly grilled swordfish steak with capers, salt and pepper calamari or chicken tagine.

2016 MOLINO A VENTO GRILLO
Variety: Grillo
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 25 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Intense lemon yellow. Direct nose of lemon pith and candied preserved lemon. Dry, medium bodied, simple and straightforward. Slightly mouth-puckering (in a good way) candied lemon. Lively acidity carries the finish. Holding up well.
Score: 15.5/20

2015 CALABRIA PRIVATE BIN PINOT BIANCO - APPLE OF MY EYE

We have long commended the wines under Calabria’s Private Bin label on these pages. The Aglianico has long been a staple of this household. The Pinot Bianco is one of two white wines in the range, the other being a Vermentino. The 2015 vintage garnered a trophy at the Victorian Wine Awards.

The 2016 is a good wine, with up front notes of green apple, guava, nashi pear and lemon zest. There is a slight hint of confection that detracts ever so slightly. However, given the $15 price tag, who is to complain?!

2015 CALABRIA PRIVATE BIN PINOT BIANCO
Variety: Pinot Bianco
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $15.00
Date tasted: 26 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow in appearance. Direct nose of green apple, nashi pear and lemon zest. Medium bodied, fresh and bright, candied green apple, with citrusy acidity on the finish. Clean, fresh, vibrant and good value.
Score: 15/20

2015 ATHLETE’S OF WINE VINERO ROMSEY CHARDONNAY - RUN

Here in Melbourne, it is a well-trodden road from sommelier to winemaker. With an intimate understanding of what works on the dinner table and a network of colleagues to sell their wines to, sommelier cum winemaker would seem to be a business model that can’t fail.

Athlete’s of Wine is the brainchild of two local sommeliers turned vignerons. Stylishly packaged, Athlete’s of Wine Vinero Romsey Chardonnay is good quality modern Australian Chardonnay.

The Macedon Ranges are the source of some of Australia’s best Chardonnays, Bindi and Curly Flat being the region’s two superstars. With access to good raw materials, the chaps at Athelete’s of Wine have produced a classy Chardonnay that delivers depth of flavour, freshness and oak-driven complexity in one.

Indeed, there is sufficient fruit intensity and structure by way of acidity to suggest that it might benefit with a year or two in bottle to come together.

2015 ATHLETE’S OF WINE VINERO ROMSEY CHARDONNAY
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 12.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 27 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Textbook nose of honeydew melon, white nectarine, grapefruit pith and subtle spicy oak. Dry, medium bodied, nice interplay of melon and grapefruit citrus cossetted in high quality, deftly handled oak. Crisp acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5/20

2016 MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK ROSE - PINK CADILLAC

Rose is witnessing a remarkable revival of fortune at present, with Provence leading the way. Australian wine producers have been rather slow to act, which is surprising given our warm climate and outdoors lifestyle. There are, of course, exceptions, most notably Charles Melton’s Rose of Virginia (though it verges toward dry red in style).

So how does a $50 Australian rose stack up? Australian Riesling has long struggled to break through the $50 ceiling. What then of Johnny-come-lately rose?! $50 is certainly getting up there for a rose, but if the wine is good enough, why not?

The wine in question is Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Rose, a single vineyard wine based on Pinot Noir from the trump card site in Mac’s portfolio of Yarra Valley vineyards. Only 1,080 bottles were made.

It is a beautifully perfumed and wonderfully textured wine that ranks alongside some of the best examples from France. High on drinkability, the wine looks great in the glass (Riedel Vinum Burgundy in this instance) and delivers a delicious, savoury accented palate of macerated strawberries and subtle spice. This wine is proof positive that rose can be a fine wine in its own right. Chapeau Mac Forbes!

2016 MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK ROSE
Variety: Rose
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 28 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright orangey pink in appearance. Attractive nose of apricot blossom and macerated strawberries. Dry, medium bodied, lovely texture and mouthfeel. Excellent depth of flavour. Strawberry pulp and a touch of spice. Classy stuff that stands up to the best roses from France.
17.5/20

2014 CULLEN AMBER - ORANGE CRUSH

Skin contact or orange wines have exploded in the past decade, so much so that no self respecting wine list at an inner city restaurant would be off-trend if it didn’t have a least a few. Such wines can divide opinion. Aromatically and texturally, they can be challenging, not surprising given that they are white wines made as if they were reds.

Cullen Amber is a skin contact wine that works, thanks to intelligent winemaking and the benefit of a couple of years in bottle. Inspired by the orange wines of Fruili in Italy’s north-east, Vanya Cullen set out to make a skin contact white using estate grown Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

With the benefit of a couple of years in bottle, the wine is drinking beautifully now. Round and rich verging on voluptuous, this is a though provoking wine that needs to be enjoyed with appropriate food an in appropriate company.

2014 CULLEN AMBER
Producer: Cullen
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 20 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Md-amber. Interesting nose of grilled nuts, toast, buttered toast. Full bodied, round and pillowy. Real depth of flavour. Quite voluptuous texture. Honey and toasted hazelnuts, oatmeal. Warming alcohol carries the finish. Intriguing wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 DOMAINE HUDELOT-BAILLET BOURGOGNE ROUGE - NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

The wines of Burgundy have never been as sought after as they are at present. The result has been that the region’s greatest wines are pretty much unobtainable for mere mortals. The good news is that many of the region’s lesser known grower’s have upped their game, though they too are quickly being discovered.

Domaine Hudelot-Baillet is a case in point. A few years back this estate was relatively unknown. However, the current generation has improved quality markedly. The domaine’s entry level Bourgogne Rouge, from the excellent 2015 vintage, is a delicious bottle of red Burgundy.

The practise at Hudelot-Baillet is to destem 100%, reflected in a wine that is pure, linear and laden with red, purple and black fruits. Modern in feel, but far from overblown, it is delivering plenty of pleasure now, but should develop well in bottle for several years.

2015 DOMAINE HUDELOT-BAILLET BOURGOGNE ROUGE
Producer: Domaine Hudelot-Baillet
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $70.00
Date tasted: 26 December 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Alluring nose of black and red fruits, hints of freshly tilled earth, Medium bodied, dry, very elegant and pure. Silkily textured – fine and seamless. Good fruit concentration in the red, purple and black fruit realm. Quite modern in feel. Good line and length. Delicious and very moreish.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 ALTA MORA ETNA BIANCO - ISLAND IN THE SUN

In the trend stakes, there is no region that is ‘hotter’ now than the slopes of Mount Etna. The past two decades have witnessed a revival of viticulture on Etna’s volcanic slopes. The white and red wines of Etna are sometimes liked to Burgundy.

2015 Alta Mora Etna Bianco could be easily enjoyed in the same context as Chablis. While it lacks the mineral complexity of the best Chablis, its has a similar acid structure to Chablis and a lemon citrus laden palate that makes it a perfect wine for simply prepared fish dishes. This isn’t a particularly complex wine, but it is wonderfully fresh, full-flavoured and remarkably drinkable.

2015 ALTA MORA ETNA BIANCO
Producer: Alta Mora
Variety: Carricante, Cataratto
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 13 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Bright nose of freshly grated lemon zest/preserved lemon/candied peel. Dry, medium bodied. Linear and direct. Good line of acidity. Quite simple with a strong preserved lemon character. Saline notes.
Score: 16/20

2012 DOMAINE BLAIN-GAGNARD CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET ROUGE 1ER CRU CLOS ST JEAN - THE OTHER WOMAN

Better known for its white wines, the village of Chassagne-Montrachet is also the source of very good red Burgundy, particularly from the likes of Domaine Ramonet. This particular example, from leading grower Domaine Blain-Gagnard, is an honest, relatively uncomplicated red Burgundy that is in the slot for current drinking.

It offers up typical notes of red fruits, earth and spice in an attractive, silky package. It is drinking well now and should develop secondary complexity over the next few years.

2012 DOMAINE BLAIN-GAGNARD CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET ROUGE 1er CRU CLOS ST JEAN
Producer: Domaine Blain-Gagnard
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 7 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet in appearance. Attractive nose of earth, truffle and strawberry. Mid-weight in feel, tannins fully resolved. Very polite, gentle and easy – pretty and pert. Simple delicate red fruits intermingled with earth and spice. Good, affordable easy-drinking red Burgundy.
Score: 16/20

2015 CHARVIN COTES DU RHONE ‘LE POUTET’ - THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

As one of the leading Chateauneuf-du-Pape producers, Domaine Charvin is one an ever-reliable source of high quality Cotes du Rhone. Such is the case with the 2015 vintage release.

Slightly reticent on bottling, the Domaine Charvin Cotes du Rhone ‘Le Poutet’ 2015 gradually reveals its quality and underlying power over the course of the bottle. On a quick glance, one could sum the wine up as gentle florals and red fruits.

However, with aeration, genuine depth of flavour emerges in the shape of a meaty, savoury core. While relatively elegant for the style, there is a quite a bit of power here, as well as depth and breadth of flavour that belies its modest Cotes du Rhone appellation. A year or two in bottle will serve this wine well.

2015 CHARVIN COTES DU RHONE ‘LE POUTET’
Producer: Domaine Charvin
Variety: Grenache et al
Region: Southern Rhone, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 16 December 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Initially reticent on the nose – slightly floral (lavender), hint of spice, red fruits. Dry, medium+ bodied, sweet fruited yet savoury. Opens up over the course of the bottle to reveal meaty depth and substance. Nice interplay of bright florals, sweet red fruit and meaty, gamy, savoury bass notes. Will benefit from another 1-2 years in bottle.
Score: 16+/20

2014 PODERI COLLA NEBBIOLO D’ALBA - PLANET EARTH

Nebbiolo is hyper-trendy, the strength of the 2010 and 2013 vintages in Piedmont lending further ballast to its growing popularity. For Barolo producers, 2014 was a vintage with significant challenges, not the least being rain in the lead up to harvest. The end product has been lighter, typically more savoury wines.

Such is the case with the 2014 Nebbiolo d’Alba from Poderi Colla. This is a ‘purists’ Nebbiolo for those not chasing simple fruit. It is very savoury and earthbound, with prominent (but not severe) tannins making their presence felt. It is a wine that demands food, preferably something rich and fatty to suck up those firm tannins.

2014 PODERI COLLA NEBBIOLO D’ALBA
Producer: Poderi Colla
Variety: Nebbolo
Region: Piedmont, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 9 December 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright strawberry nose. Earthy nose, dusty herbs, floral notes. Medium bodied, very savoury. Earthbound, taut, slightly stern, tobacco leaf. Absolutely not fruity and easy. Slightly austere in feel, but works for the style. A wine you have to be in the right mood for, but worth the effort for those prepared to go along for the ride.
Score: 15.5/20