24 January 2012

LEMON, LIME AND ALL THINGS FINE

Lemon and lime citrus – that’s what we always think of when it comes to Clare Valley Riesling. But are all Clare Valley Rieslings that similar? Does the mere sight of a long slender bottle with the name Watervale or Polish Hill on it produce images of citrus groves?

Quite simply put, lemon and lime are the signature notes of Clare Valley Riesling.  Yes, some Clare Rieslings can possess a slightly herbaceous edge, perhaps if made from fruit that was not uniformly ripe when harvested.  Some are more mineral than others.

Two examples, one from Mitchell, the other from O'Leary Walker, illustrate the lemon and lime theme to a tee.  The 2003 O'Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling, sealed under screw cap, is open and ready for business, drinking at its peak.  At under $20 per bottle and sometimes available on discount, it is one of Australia's wine bargains to be bought in quantity and left to slumber for several years.


2004 Mitchell Watervale Riesling is somewhat more austere and demanding of the drinker; it needs food to be enjoyed now, and will perhaps benefit from a few more years in the cellar.

2003 POLISH HILL RIVER RIESLING
Producer: O’Leary Walker
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2003
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 25 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Vibrant nose of grapefruit pith and lime zest. Broader and more filled out than the 2002 Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling – quite advanced. Lovely fleshy mouthfeel driven by typical Clare Valley lemon/lime and chalky minerality. Although drinking well now, it should develop further.
Score: 16/20

2004 WATERVALE RIESLING

Producer: Mitchell
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2004
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 16 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Lemon pith and grapefruit zest, slightly herbal, nettles. Bone dry, slightly austere. Quite a demanding wine that needs food or more time in bottle. Decent enough length, but perhaps just a bit too dry to be an enjoyable aperitif.
Score: 15.5/20



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