2012 CRAWFORD RIVER CABERNET MERLOT - EASY LOVER

Henty-based Crawford River is the source of one of Australia’s best Rieslings. The estate has long produced a blend of Cabernet Sauvigon and Merlot. To some extent, it lives in the shadow of the exceptional Crawford River Riesling.

The 2012 Crawford River Cabernet Merlot, is a good, but not compelling wine. As one would expect given its cool climate origin, the wine is well composed, graceful and elegant. Although there are notes of pine resin and dusty herbs, the wine is by no means under-ripe.

All in all, this is a very sound wine; polite and easy to drink. It that sense, it serves its purpose. Those looking for an easy-going lunching Cabernet to enjoy with a Sunday roast could do a lot worse.

2012 CRAWFORD RIVER CABERNET MERLOT
Producer: Crawford River
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Region: Henty, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 27 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Lifted nose of dusty herbs, blackcurrant and resin. Dry, medium bodied, very soft and supple, easy. Red fruits up-front, pencil shavings and pine resin. Gentle and polite. Ready to go.
Score: 15.5/20

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO PESICO TINTO - ROCK OF AGES

Nicolas Marcos is the man behind Dominio del Urogallo. Situated in the Asturias region near Spain’s Atlantic coast, this is a region like many in Spain that is being rediscovered. Although it is better known for cider production, it has a history of wine production dating back over 1,000 years.

Marcos brings to the table a wealth of experience including several years with Alain Graillot in the northern Rhone as well as his family bodega in Toro. The Cangas del Narcea sub-region in the Asturias couldn’t be more of a contrast to sun-drenched Toro, with its cool maritime climate and steep, rocky slopes.

A low intervention approach is used here, with no sulphur dioxide additions whatsoever. Pesico Tinto is a four-way blend of largely unfamiliar varieties (Carrasquin, Albarin Tinto, Verdejo Tinto, Albillo), though Verdejo Tinto is the same as Trousseau, of France’s Jura region.

The wine itself is alluringly aromatic, very floral and attractive. It is medium bodied, compact and fine, a panoply of red, black and blue fruits delivering a real sweet and sour character. In sum, it is a delicious and thought provoking wine. This is a region and a producer to follow with interest.

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO PESICO TINTO

Producer: Dominio del Urogallo
Variety: Carrasquin, Albarin Tinto, Verdejo Tinto, Albillo
Region: Asturias, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 26 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Attractive floral nose – lilac, rose petal and violet, black cherry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, real ‘sweet and sour’ going on here – the overall impression is savoury. Red meets black fruits, sprinkle of white pepper. Good length with acidity carrying the finish. Ready to go. Delicious.
Score: 17/20

2013 MARC ISART ‘LA MALDICION’ - MY CURSE

Spain is arguably the most exciting wine producing country in the Old World at present.  Talented young vignerons are (re)discovering ancient vineyards in hitherto forgotten regions and bringing them back to life.

Marc Isart has been a fundamental player in the evolution of serious Garnacha from the Gredos mountains near Madrid.  He is the winemaker behind Madrid label Bernabeleva.  This wine is his solo side project.

'La Maldicion', a Tempranillo-heavy blend, sums up the new Spain to a tee.  It is a bright, juicy and hip--pocket friendly wine that simply wants to be drunk.  Co-fermentation of 85% Tempranillo with 15% Malvar, a white grape, has kept the wine very fresh and bright.

2015 MARC ISART ‘LA MALDICION’
Producer: Marc Isart
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Region: Madrid, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 25 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Lifted nose – literally leaps out of the glass. Black cherry, dark plum and sarsaparilla. Very vibrant and lively. Bright and fresh. Dangerously drinkable. Red fruit meets black. The sort of wine that’s hard to say no to.
Score: 16/20

2015 OCCHIPINTI SP68 - HUMAN NATURE

Arianna Occhipinti is the niece of Giusto Occhipinti, the 'O' in leading Sicilian producer COS.  Like her uncle, she is based in Sicily's south-eastern corner.  Her wines reflect a non-interventionist approach.  The estate is certified organic and the wines are made with few, if any, additions.

If one wine has become the signature of Arianna Occhipinti, it is SP68, a blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola.  This is not a dense or complex wine, it is snappy, sappy and vibrant, the sort of wine that makes you stand up to attention and raise a glass.  It is a wine with few pretensions, more fun than serious.  That is no bad thing.  It is a lovely 'drink me know' proposition that has found a legion of fans worldwide.

2015 OCCHIPINTI SP68
Producer: Agricola Occhipinti
Variety: Frappato, Nero d’Avola
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 19 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright purple. Lifted nose of morello cherry/bitter cherry. Direct and straightforward on the palate. Black/bitter cherry to the fore. Light, vibrant and fresh. Pleasantly sour!
Score: 16+/20

2004 SPINIFEX TABOR VINEYARD MATARO - BIG DADDY

Mataro aka Mourvedre is one of the Barossa Valley’s strong suits. Bottle age transforms Mataro, allowing its savoury personality to come to the fore. This particular example show cases some of the traits we associate with the variety.

Rich and full bodied, it is near full maturity. The primary fruit has receded, with savoury notes of dried earth and cocoa to the fore. It’s a good wine, but not quite in the class of Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre.

2004 SPINIFEX TABOR VINEYARD MATARO
Producer: Spinifex
Variety: Mourvedre
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 26 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby with some visible signs of development on the rim. Quite shy and retiring on opening. With air, reveals freshly tilled earth, cocoa/chocolate and dark fruits. Full bodied, slightly syrupy in texture, savoury, cocoa/chocolate, dusty herbs, hint of morello cherry. Solid, but doesn’t quite deliver.
Score: 16/20

2012 YALUMBA THE SIGNATURE - SIGN YOUR NAME

‘The Signature’ is one of the stalwarts of Australian wine. A classical Australian ‘Claret’, it displays the harmony of Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. It is a traditionally inspired, full bodied, generous wine.

2012 was a smart vintage in the Barossa Valley, and much of the quality of the vintage comes thought in this wine. On this showing it is in desperate of need of further bottle age. Although not tight or overly tannic, it is a touch shy at the moment. Given the pedigree of the label and the quality of the vintage, it should be strutting its stuff with 6-8 more years in bottle.

2012 YALUMBA THE SIGNATURE
Producer: Yalumba
Variety: Shiraz Cabernet blends
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 20 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Bright nose of plum, cherry, cassis, woodsmoke, graphite, coconut and vanilla. Full bodied, red fruit meets black, the Cabernet coming through more with air. Tannins are super-fine, sitting very much behind the fruit. Solid, a good rendition of this classic label, but needing several years more in bottle to reveal its full potential.
Score: 16+/20

2015 KUMEU VILLAGE CHARDONNAY - SLAVE TO THE RIVER

Some would argue that Kumeu River is one of the best producers of Chardonnay outside of Burgundy, and with good reason. The 2015 vintage rendition of the estate’s entry level Village Chardonnay is a delicious example of modern Chardonnay.

Fresh, vibrant and savoury, it showcases pristine Chardonnay fruit and assured winemaking. Oak influence is minimal to the point of being imperceptible. You’d be hard pressed to find a better Chardonnay for the money anywhere.

2015 KUMEU VILLAGE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Kumeu River
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Auckland, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 18 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of green apple, lemon, grapefruit pith and white peach. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and breezy. The nose flows through to the palate which is stylish and vibrant. Negligible oak influence. High quality stuff and a relative bargain for the price. Delicious stuff.
Score: 17/20

2013 CHATEAU CAMPUGET SYRAH - BLUE JEAN

Costieres de Nimes offers good value wines for drinking over the short to medium term.  Such is the case with this Syrah from Chateau Campuget.  There's a real sense of Mediterranean sunshine about this wine, not to say that it is overripe or overdone in any way.

Laden with dark berry fruit, liquorice and hung game, it is a lovely wine that simply says ‘drink me’. As to when, it is good to go now, but should hold for another 3-4 years.

2013 CHATEAU CAMPUGET COSTIERES DE NIMES 1753 SYRAH
Producer: Chateau Campuget
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Languedoc, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 29 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson in appearance. Attractive nose of hung meat/charcuterie, black cherry and blackberry. Medium bodied, soft and round, dark fruited with suggestions of game, black pepper and cured meat. Good length. Solid as a rock.
Score: 16/20

2014 FREEHAND CABERNET SAUVIGNON - I'M FREE

Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t flavour of the month in Australia at present, lagging well behind Pinot Noir and Shiraz in the public’s consciousness. However, done well, Cabernet can be truly delicious, particularly as a dinner table wine alongside grilled and roasted meats.

This particular example, from biodynamic producer Freehand, is the essence of Cabernet with its blackcurrant fruit entwined with charcoal, lead pencil and tobacco. Drunk on its own, it won’t appeal to all comers, but with a rack of lamb, it really comes into its own.

Interestingly, the wine is labelled as being both biodynamic and preservative free. A rather abstract label further suggest that this could be quite an ‘off-beat’ wine. While one could be tempted to think that this is an off-beat wine with its heart on its natural wine sleeve, it is actually rather conventional, but in a good way. It’s rather delicious, especially given the price.

2014 FREEHAND CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Freehand
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 28 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Opaque deep crimson verging toward black. Very typical Cabernet Sauvignon nose of charcoal, tomato leaf, blackcurrant and tobacco. Dry, medium bodied, with sweet blackcurrant fruit to the fore, overlaid by charcoal and pencil shavings. Powdery tannins provide structure. Excellent value for money, with upside for medium term cellaring.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘SABLES’ - FRANC-IE, DO YOU REMEMBER ME...

Loire Valley Cabernet Franc is one of the under-rated jewels of the wine world. At its best, it is aromatically expressive, no more than medium bodied, tremendously fresh and bright. There are few other red wines that offer better drinking when the sun is out.

This particular example ticks all of the boxes. Being grown on sandy soils, it is relatively light, with soft tannins. It is a wine to enjoy now and over the next year or two, preferably with rare lamb chops straight off the barbecue.

2015 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘SABLES’
Producer: Domine du Mortier
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 30 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Typical Cabernet France nose of blackcurrant leaf, redcurrant and lead pencil shavings. Medium bodied, soft and supple. Cabernet France to a tee – savoury and elegant, but not lean or austere. Easygoing and confident.
Score: 16/20

2014 DAVID FRANZ LONG GULLY ROAD SEMILLON - WILD HEARTED SON

Although it is one of Australia’s foundation grape varieties, Semillon remains largely ignored by the drinking public. Much is the pity, as dry Semillon can be delicious. While the Australia’s flagship Semillons come from the Hunter Valley, there are some very good wines from the Barossa Valley.

As a general rule, Barossa Semillon tends to be slightly fuller in body and earlier maturing than examples from the Hunter. When Semillon is as good as this bottle, it is one of the best wine values from anywhere. It does help that David Franz, the man behind the label, has a strong bloodline in the Barossa Valley. He is, in fact, the son of one Peter Lehmann.

As to the wine, it is completely and utterly delicious, and an absolute steal at under $25 per bottle. If anyone thinks that all Australian wine is over the top, high alcohol and confected, they just need to try a glass or two of good Semillon.

2014 DAVID FRANZ LONG GULLY ROAD SEMILLON
Producer: David Franz
Variety: Semillon
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $24.00
Date tasted: 31 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of grapefruit pith, candied preserved lemon and candle wax. Dry, medium bodied, bright and lively; grapefruit zest, lemon citrus and crab apple. Very attractive wine. Long on the palate. Will develop well over the medium term.
Score: 17.5/20

2014 SC PANNELL ‘THE VALE’ - ARE YOU OLD ENOUGH?

There is little that Steve Pannell can do wrong. He has an uncanny understanding of how wine fits into the contemporary Australian lifestyle and landscape. His wines tend not to be showy, but inevitably pass the deliciousness test with flying colours.

‘The Vale’ is a traditional McLaren Vale blend of Shiraz and Grenache. At this point in time it seems tightly coiled to the point of being slightly obdurate. For one reason or another, this particular bottle just didn’t sing. In view of the producer’s credentials and other reviews of this same wine, one is happy review judgement at this point in time.

2014 SC PANNELL ‘THE VALE’
Producer: SC Pannell
Variety: Grenache et al
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 23 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Direct nose of tar, roasted spices and liqueur cherry/raspberry. Medium bodied, quite taut, slightly straight-jacketed. Needs more time? Solid, but not particularly expressive. Give it the benefit of the doubt and revisit in a couple of years time.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 LA VIOLETTA ‘UP!’ SHIRAZ - I'M COMING UP!

Karrinyup, Manjimup and so on. Those West Australian’s just love their ‘Up’s’ don’t they! They also know how to make good wine. Such is the case with La Violetta ‘Up!’ Shiraz. It is a seductive wine, rich in violet and lilac florals.

Winemaker Andrew Hoadley has coaxed the best out of Great Southern Shiraz with this homage to all things Western Australian ending with –up. While its name may be irreverent, the wine is seriously delicious. There’s lots to enjoy now and over the next 5 or so years. More please!

2014 LA VIOLETTA ‘UP!’ SHIRAZ
Producer: La Violetta
Variety: Shiraz/Syrah
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 13.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 22 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Alluring nose of dark red fruits and lifted florals. Medium bodied, supple and fine. Very attractive and elegant, a panoply of sweet red and black fruit, nothing in excess. Slightly gamy. All in all, a delicious wine for now and over the next 5-6 years.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 BODEGAS EXOPTO ‘BOZETO DE EXOPTO’ RIOJA ROSADO - STRAWBERRY FIELDS FOREVER

The Spaniard’s are among the biggest producers and consumers of rose wine. It comes of little surprise, therefore, that they’re pretty good at fashioning very drinkable expressions of the style. This example, from Bodegas Exopto delivers pretty much all one could want from the rose. It is bright and fresh, with just a tiny bit of fruit sweetness up-front.

Delicate red fruits carry the palate, which is lively and fresh. This is the sort of wine that has the words ‘Drink Me’ writ large on the label. Sadly, this particular bottle was emptied all too quickly. Provence rose might be king, but Spain has plenty offer when it comes to pink wine.

2015 BODEGAS EXOPTO ‘BOZETO DE EXOPTO’ RIOJA ROSADO
Producer: Bodegas Exopto
Variety: Tempranillo, Garnacha
Region: Rioja, Spain
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 9 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Attractive nose of cranberry, strawberry and cherry. Medium bodied, touch of fruit sweetness upfront is followed by a panoply of delicate summer berries. Very fresh, lively and life-affirming. Not that complex, but dangerously drinkable.
Score: 16/20

2015 OCEAN EIGHT PINOT GRIS - FADE TO GRIS

By way of introduction it is worth mentioning that yours truly and Pinot Gris/Grigio are not the best of friends. Frankly, one finds all to many of this a la mode variety to be as dull as dishwater unless that is, the wine in question happens to be a lusciously sweet example from one of the best producers in Alsace.

It is fair to say that the Mornington Peninsula has established a strong name for itself in the Pinot Gris stakes, names such as T’Gallant, Quealy and Paradigm Hill all being noteworthy producers. On evidence of this bottle, the Aylwards of Ocean Eight should be added to the list. By the end of this bottle, one was just about sold on the virtues of Pinot Gris.

This particular wine displays the signature aromatics of Pinot Gris and its soft texture. Fermented to the point of being bone dry, a citrusy twist on the finish lends a pleasant twang to the finish that gives it a vibrancy lacking in so many examples of the grape.

2015 OCEAN EIGHT PINOT GRIS
Producer: Ocean Eight
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 7 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright coppery yellow in appearance. Lifted, aromatic nose of pear, red apple/apple blossom and musk, hint of background spice. Dry, mid-weight in body, lovely texture on the palate. In terms of fruit profile, the wine is straight from the apple/pear orchard, a twist of lemon citrus on the finish lending freshness. Top notch Pinot Gris.
Score: 16.5+/20

2014 ARTUKE ‘PIES NEGROS’ RIOJA - SHUFFLE YOUR FEET

Artuke is a relatively small Rioja producer farming 22 hectares on the banks of the River Ebro in Rioja Alavesa. ‘Pies Negros’ aka ‘black feet’ is a traditionally vinified blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%) that sees 14 months maturation in barrel.

Stylistically, it is an attractive, easy drinking style of entry level Rioja that is made for contemporary Mediterranean cuisine.

2014 ARTUKE ‘PIES NEGROS’ RIOJA
Producer: Bodegas y Vinedos Artuke
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Region: Rioja, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 21 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Bright nose of black cherry, raspberry and sarsaparilla. Medium bodied, the nose flows through to the palate with is medium in body, dry and savoury. Well made and easy going, just what one wants from this sort of wine. Made for tapas fare!
Score: 16/20

2015 FIEGL ‘VILLA DUGO’ MALVASIA BIANCO - HIGH AND DRY

Fiegl’s ‘Villa Dugo’ range is a well priced selection of attractively packaged wines from Italy’s north-east. While the Pinot Grigio is the powerhouse of the white wines, the Malvasia is pretty decent stuff too.

Light in bodied, body dry and fresh, this is an uncomplicated wine that has one hankering for sunshine. Crisp, pure and steely, it’s not particularly complex or intellectually engaging, but there’s plenty to like with its vibrant persona. Would make a great picnic wine.

2015 FIEGL ‘VILLA DUGO’ MALVASIA BIANCO
Producer: Fiegl
Variety: Malvasia
Region: Friuli, Italy
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 29 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow in appearance. Straightforward nose of green apples and lemon/lime. Dry, medium bodied, steely, fresh and vibrant. Very much in the crab apple/lemon citrus realm. The sort of wine that demands company, a frivolous state of mind and a warm sunny day.
Score: 15/20

2009 BOX GROVE VINEYARD ROUSSANNE - SUBSTITUTE

Given its ability to retain acidity when grown in warm climates, you’d think Roussanne would be the white grape variety of choice in southern Australia’s Mediterranean climate. Although we see the odd blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, single varietal Roussanne is thin on the ground.

While it is true that Rhone white varietals can be a hard sell, it is equally true that Roussanne, when done well, is absolutely delicious. Such is the case with this example from Box Grove Vineyard in central Victoria. From the first sniff to the last glass it is textbook Roussanne. The fact that it has the benefit of several years in bottle is an added bonus. Chardonnay drinkers take note – give Roussanne a try!

2009 BOX GROVE VINEYARD ROUSSANNE
Producer: Box Grove Vineyard
Variety: Roussanne
Region: Nagambie Lakes, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 23 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow in appearance. Clean nose of Beurre Bosch pear, white nectarine, cantaloupe and grilled cashew, slightly honeyed. Dry, medium bodied, round, nice pillowy texture. Prototypical Roussanne that is showing the benefit of a few years bottle age. Delicious and a great alternative for Chardonnay at the dinner table.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 BODEGAS EXOPTO 'BOZETO DE EXOPTO' RIOJA - ORIGINAL

Bodegas Exopto is one of the leading vanguard of new Rioja producers styling wines that are true to their place of origin and aren’t tied by the binds of oak maturation that have traditionally dominated the region’s classification system.

To quote proprietor and vigneron Tom Puyaubert, ‘my wines are made in the vineyard, not in the barrel!’ Bozeto de Exopto is a wonderful expression of Tom’s philosophy. He uitilises a high proportion of Garnach and ages the wine in seasoned wood.

The result is a Riojan take on a Cotes du Rhone, if you will, and it works extremely well. More please!

2014 BODEGAS EXOPTO 'BOZETO DE EXOPTO' RIOJA
Producer: Bodegas Exopto
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Region: Rioja, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 1 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Attractive nose of black cherry, raspberry and cherry cola. Dry, medium bodied, round, soft and gently spicy. Mid-weight and vibrant. A Spanish take on Cotes du Rhone, if there is such a thing.
Score: 16/20

2016 LA VIOLETTA ‘YE YE’ BLANC - SAY YEAH!

Western Australia’s Great Southern region suffers somewhat from its location and being the support player to Margaret River. That said, it undoubtedly the source of Western Australia’s best Shiraz, high quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Rieslings that are among Australia’s best.

La Violetta is the brainchild of Andrew Hoadley, a talented man mountain who is consultant winemaker to several of the region’s leading producers. The La Violetta label gives him the opportunity to indulge just a little bit.

The 2016 vintage rendition of La Violetta ‘Ye Ye’ Blanc demonstrates Hoadley’s considerable skills as a winemaker and just how good the aromatic white blends of this remote part of Australia can be. Weighing it a modest 11.9% ABV, one could easily be confused for thinking the wine is alpine in origin. However, its region of origin is very much maritime by nature.

This a delicate, perfumed and highly classy white wine that is made for the contemporary dining table. It is made for the fresh flavours of south east Asian cuisine. Sushi, sashimi and ceviche would wonderfully as well. With wines as good as this, we can be confident that Australian wine is in good hands.

2016 LA VIOLETTA ‘YE YE’ BLANC
Producer: La Violetta
Variety: Aromatic white blend (Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Viognier)
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 11.9%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 17 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Very pale, almost water-white in appearance. Very clean and fresh nose – almost glacial in its purity. Crystallised stem ginger, tangerine/lime zest, crab apple, white flowers. In the mouth, bone dry, very delicate and pretty – literally dances on the tongue. Balletic poise! Fine, aromatic, lively and vibrant. Hard to believe this wine is made in Australia! Delicious.
Score: 17.5+/20

2001 WENDOUREE SHIRAZ MATARO - CHOCOLATE

The wines of Clare Valley icon Wendouree have featured on these pages on several occasions. This bottle was the first outing of the estate’s Shiraz Mataro blend. The 2001 release of this particular wine doesn’t seem to have been met with great acclaim among the cognoscenti.

If this bottle is any indication, the wine is quintessentially Wendouree, powerful but lithe in one. The Mataro makes its presence felt strongly in the form of dark cocoa powder and wet earth. Although the tannins are relatively soft, the primary fruit commands centre stage. While there is plenty to enjoy here and now, further bottle age should see this wine take on considerable secondary complexity.

2001 WENDOUREE SHIRAZ MATARO
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Shiraz, Mourvedre
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.9%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 17 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Bold nose of dark cocoa, wet earth, liquorice and toasted fennel seeds. Full bodied, round tannins. Still very primary, dark fruits entwined with cocoa powder, earthy nose. Muscular, but with some degree of finesse. Leave for a few years as secondary characters should lend more complexity.
Score: 16.5+/20

2015 SWINNEY TIRRA LIRRA WHITE - AROMATIC FOR THE PEOPLE

Western Australia’s Great Southern region is the source of some of Australia’s best Riesling. Frankland Estate and Forest Hill stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the best from the Clare and Eden Valleys on the Riesling front.

This Riesling-based blend from Swinnney takes Great Southern Riesling and adds its aromatic bedfellows Pinot Gris for texture and Gewurztraminer for aromatics. The result is a perfumed, aromatic wine that speaks of its maritime origin.

This is not a broad, exotic wine that one may find in Alsace, but a chiselled, linear style that is at one cool and fine. It would make a perfect foil for raw and lightly cured fish dishes, and aromatic cuisines such as Vietnamese.

2015 SWINNEY TIRRA LIRRA WHITE
Producer: Swinney
Variety: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 11 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow. Clean, bright aromatic nose of green apple, apple blossom, delicate rose petal, citrus in the background. Medium bodied, soft and round. Well composed, gentle acid. Lithe and easy, feels like the Gris is providing the texture. Very pure.
Score: 16/20

2014 HEAD WINES ‘HEAD RED’ GSM - SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

Alex Head is one of a wave of younger Barossa Valley vignerons making regionally authentic, savoury and elegant expressions of Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre. ‘Head Red’ GSM 2014 is true to the Head style.

Weighing in at just over 14% ABV, it is most definitely ripe. Yet this is not a jammy, heavy or overdone wine. Just over medium bodied, the emphasis is on savoury spice more than sweet, jammy fruit. Compact is perhaps the best way to describe it.

This is a graceful Barossan red that can more than hold its own against similar examples from the southern Rhone.

2014 HEAD WINES ‘HEAD RED’ GSM
Producer: Head Wines
Variety: Grenache et al
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 9 September 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of roasted spice, kirsch, tar. Medium bodied, tight and spicy. Very elegant expression of Barossa. More savoury than sweet. Tightly knit. More about spice than fruit. Good stuff.
Score: 16/20

2012 SOLARIA ROSSO DI MONTALCINO - HE AIN'T HEAVY, HE'S MY BROTHER

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous wines. The rolling hills of southern Tuscany produce a full bodied style of Sangiovese that showcases its autumnal fruit. Sadly, good Brunello doesn’t come cheap.

Rosso di Montalcino, with is shorter ageing requirements provides an affordable alternative to budget conscious lovers of Tuscan wines. Solaria Rosso di Montalcino ticks the boxes well and truly. From the warm 2012 vintage, this particular wine is prototypical Sangiovese, with cherry fruit at its core, complemented by notes of leather, fig, autumn leaves and hung game. It’s ready to go now, but should keep for another couple of years.

2012 SOLARIA ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
Producer: Solaria
Variety: Sangiovese
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 12 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby fading toward terra cotta at the rim. Attractive nose of cherry, autumn nose, leather, fig, touch of orange zest. Dry, medium bodied, very correct and true to type. Cocoa powder. Fine grained tannins carry the finish.
Score: 16/20

2015 BK WINES ‘SKIN ‘N’ BONES’ PINOT NOIR - SOUR CHERRY

Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir can, at times, being guilty of being ‘big boned’, just a bit too clunky for its own good. This example, from BK Wines takes a different tack. It’s a funky, unfiltered style that seems happy to stand out from the crowd.

Being unfiltered, it’s slightly cloudy in appearance. Aromatically and on the palate, it’s all about sour red fruits. Stylistically, it works, though it mightn’t appeal to all Pinotphiles. It’s hard to know how this one will develop in bottle. One suspects it is probably best enjoyed in the flourish of youth.

2015 BK WINES ‘SKIN ‘N’ BONES’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: BK Wines
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 14 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Cloudy cherry red in appearance – obviously unfiltered. Bright nose of rhubarb, pomegranate, sour cherry and rose petal/lilac florals. The nose flows through to the palate which has a pleasant sourness. Quite light, bright and fresh by Lenswood Pinot Noir standards. Probably best enjoyed while young. Hard to know how this will develop in bottle.
Score: 16/20

NV VEUVE MONSIGNY BRUT - CHEAP THRILLS

German-owned retailer Aldi has shaken up the traditional supermarket duopoly here in Australia. With an unconventional approach to retail, it has quickly established a legion of loyal supporters. In no small part, Aldi’s success is down to being particularly keen on price thanks largely to its lack of reliance on established household brands.

A glance in the liquor department shows just one Champagne on the shelves. Surprise, surprise, it isn’t a household name from the Moet-Hennessy empire. Priced at just $25 per bottle, Aldi’s exclusive Champagne is NV Veuev Monsigny Brut.

In the festive season, we are accustomed to seeing brands such as Mumm being discounted to well under $40 per bottle. $25 per bottle is seriously cheap. Is it any good? Well, in the glass, it looks like decent Champagne, with a fine persistent bead.

On the nose, it is relatively simple. If one had to be critical, there’s a candied note that is slightly off-putting. On the palate, the wine is clean, fresh and relatively uncomplicated. There’s little yeast autolysis to speak of and it could do with being just a touch drier. That said, the overall quality is very decent.

This is by no means top drawer non-vintage Champagne, but it is a solid example that does what it says on the label. It is a perfectly respectable wine to pour if catering for the masses and at $25 per bottle, who can complain?!

NV VEUVE MONSIGNY BRUT
Producer: Charles Mignon
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 21 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery white in appearance. Fine persistent bead. Straightforward nose of candied apple, strawberry, nashi pear. Dry and fine. Very drinkable, if not particularly long or complex. No autolysis to speak of, but light, fresh and thoroughly decent.
Score: 15.5/20

2011 BEST’S BIN 1 SHIRAZ - CLASS ACT

Much has been said and written of the 2011 vintage in southern Australia. It was an atypically wet year, one that put vignerons to the sword. Widely condemned in some quarters, there were some very good wines made, notwithstanding the challenges of the vintage.

Best’s Bin 1 Shiraz was one of the clear successes of the vintage, so successful that it took out the Jimmy Watson Trophy, no small achievement for a wine that sells at or under $30 per bottle. In 2011, it had the benefit of the pick of the crop fruit-wise, as there was no Thomson’s Family Shiraz or Bin 0 Shiraz in 2011.

Five years on and this Jimmy Watson winner is still on the youthful side. It possesses a wonderfully fine, elegant and silky texture, yet the fruit profile is relatively simple. In another five or so years it should be strutting its stuff in the best way possible.

2011 BEST’S BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s
Variety: Shiraz
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 19 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson in appearance. Clean nose of liquorice, dark berry fruit, resin and cracked black pepper. Very silky and fine on the palate – almost Pinot Noir-like in texture and weight. Dry, fine and elegant, quite direct and simple at present. Black fruit meets pepper, olive and liquorice. Should develop more complexity over the next several years.
Score: 17+/20

2014 MICHAEL HALL ‘SANG DE PIGEON’ SHIRAZ - BLACK EARTH

Michael Hall is the epitome of modern Australian wine. The amiable Brit gave up a career with a leading auction house to study winemaking and have a go at making wine under his own label ‘Down Under’. He completed his oenology degree as dux and has set the highest standards under the Michael Hall Wines label.

Like many smaller players, Michael Hall doesn’t own and land under vine. He sources high quality fruit from vineyards in the Adelaide Hills (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) and Barossa and Eden Valleys (Roussanne and Shiraz).

‘Sang de Pigeon’ (pigeon’s blood) is the cheaper of two Shiraz Hall makes from the Barossa Valley. Stylistically, it is a restrained expression of Barossa Shiraz, the emphasis on spice and dark earth rather than sweet fruit. There’s a lot to like here.

2014 MICHAEL HALL ‘SANG DE PIGEON’ SHIRAZ
Producer: Michael Hall Wines
Variety: Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 21 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Interesting nose – earthy, black cherry, blackberry. Dry, full bodied, very savoury in profile, much more so than most Barossa Valley Shiraz. Elegant and suave, restrained, and all the better for it. A different take on Barossa Valley Shiraz, one that eschews sweet up-front fruit.
Score: 16.5/20