23 January 2012

BE CAREFUL – IT’S A WARRABILLA DURIF

Contrary to the Rutherglen norm, Warrabilla is best know for its dry red wines (Shiraz and Durif), not unctuously sweet fortified Muscats and Tokays. Over the years, Warrabilla has built a following for its big and bold reds.

One thing to be said about Warrabilla is that it doesn’t do subtlety. The wines are big on personality, big in flavour and high in alcohol. Yet one shouldn’t be detracted by the high alcohol levels, especially with the Durifs. These are big, hearty wines for bold food. Most importantly, they are well balanced and in harmony. Tasted young, the Warrabilla Durifs are all about tannin; uncoiled potential framed by monster tannins. Yet several years in the cellar sees these wines emerge from their shell into a highly drinkable full bodied red wine.

The 2003 Warrabilla Reserve Durif is just starting to strut its stuff. The structured tannins have been shed, producing a wine that is all about dark berry fruit, liquorice and charcoal. It is perfectly suited to a thick steak or hearty winter fare like a beef casserole. The masculine personality is part of the wine’s make up, but like all big fellas, it’s got a heart of gold. Although drinking well now, it should hold for a few years yet.

2003 RESERVE DURIF
Producer: Warrabilla
Variety: Durif
Vintage: 2003
Region: Rutherglen, Victoria
ABV: 16.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Bold nose of plum, liquorice, cocoa and charcoal. Full bodied, rich and mouthfilling. Sweet cherry fruit upfront leads to powdery cocoa, plum and anise. The high alcohol is imperceptible on the finish, which is long and lingering. A hedonist’s delight that works very well with a rare steak straight off the barbecue (rested appropriately, of course).
Score: 16.5/20

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