31 January 2012

CULLEN - POWERHOUSE CHARDONNAYS

There isn’t much that can be said or written about Margaret River’s Cullen winery that hasn’t already been put to paper. Acknowledged as one of Australia’s finest wineries, Cullen has a strong following in Australia and in key export markets. Cullen’s Chardonnay has long been regarded as one of Australia’s best; finely honed, with high quality French oak.

Two examples of Cullen Chardonnay reflect the style of winemaking that prevailed at the time at the dawn of the new millennium. Both wines are quite heavily worked, undergoing 60% malolactic fermentation and seeing 100% new French oak. Both are rich, full bodied powerhouse wines, displaying quality of the raw materials and astute winemaking.

Although the recent trend in Australia has been towards a reduction in the use of new oak and less malolactic fermentation, these traditionally styled, but very high quality Margaret River Chardonnays hold up very well.

The wines tasted were from the 2001 and 2002 vintage, the former sealed under cork, the latter under screw cap. Both wines clearly showed the same vineyard and winemaker stamp, the 2002 (bottled under screw cap) being ever so slightly fresher. In this case, the 2001 has held up very well under cork.

2001 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Cullen Wines
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2001
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 16 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of creamy peach, custard apple, red apples and honey. Dry, full bodied, slightly more evolved on the palate than the nose, creamy butterscotch, peach and apple. Nearing full maturity, this is an excellent full throttle Chardonnay that has held up well under cork.
Score: 17/20

2002 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Cullen Wines
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2002
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 16 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Golden yellow with a slight greenish tinge. Slightly fresher and less advanced than the 2001, though the nose and palate deliver much the same. Once again, the oak is fully integrated and the alcohol is somewhat obtrusive. Rich, full bodied, a powerful and full flavoured Chardonnay at the peak of its drinking. There’s real depth and intensity here. It’s a big wine, but is extremely well balanced and long on the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

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