2011 YABBY LAKE SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY - TRIM, TAUT AND TERRIFIC

In the past decade or so there has been a quantum shift in Australian Chardonnay. While heavy winemaking intervention (lees stirring, 100% malolactic fermentation, significant use of new oak) once ruled the day, many have now chosen to adopt a ‘less is more’ approach. In some cases, this has included blocking malolactic fermentation altogether, as well as substantially scaling back the use of new oak.

By and large, this stylistic shift (together with the emergence of cool climate regions) has been for the good, resulting in more sophisticated wines that are better balanced and, in theory, should be capable of ageing longer. However, in some instances, taut and steely has been confused with lean, hard and malic.

While stylistic changes are there to be assessed and perhaps embraced, one should never divorce oneself from the tenet that great winemaking is about providing the best expression of site. With that it mind, we should also be cognisant of the fact that two of Australia’s greatest Chardonnays, Giaconda and Main Ridge, both undergo near enough to 100% malolactic fermentation. However, thanks to the great sites from which they are grown, they lack nothing for freshness, balance and the ability to age.

Yabby Lake is one of the leading lights of ‘new wave’ of Australian Chardonnay. The 2011 (a vintage that increasingly appears to have produced some truly outstanding Chardonnays) was bottled at a modest 12% ABV, low by contemporary standards. The first thing one notices about this wine is the nose; forget primary fruit or spicy oak, it’s all about struck match. In this instance, it adds complexity and interest. Structurally, the wine is driven by a noticeable line of acidity, though not at the expense of fruit. There is excellent balance here and while steely and taut, there is nothing mean or underdone about the wine. All in all, it is a very intelligently composed representation of modern Australian Chardonnay, one that will appeal to those who don’t mind a wine with a bit of attitude.

2011 SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
Producer: Yabby Lake
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2011
Region: Mornington Peninsula
ABV: 12%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $39.99
Date tasted: 8 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow. Open nose, struck match sulphides, grapefruit pith, lemon and crab apple, white flowers. Dry, savoury, medium bodied, marked by fine acidity which provides the backbone of the wine, green apple, lemon and grapefruit citrus. Steely and taut. Classy of its type and should develop well.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 CH. PIERRE BISE SAVENNIERES ROCHE-AUX-MOINES - SOMETHING TO SAVOUR

We have previously reviewed the 2009 rendition of the Savennieres Roche-Aux-Moines from Chateau Pierre Bise on these pages. The 2011 vintage follows in similarly fine form, albeit as a more delicate and slightly reticent incarnation of the 2009.

Loire Chenin Blanc, whether it be Vouvray, Anjou, Montlouis or Savennieres, has never quite gone mainstream. It tends to be very much a food style, often mineral rather than fruit driven, and dare I say, a rather ‘adult’ style of wine. It can, however, be highly rewarding, and prices are generally reasonably, especially when compared with white Burgundy and the best examples of dry white Bordeaux.

This release is true to style. Decanted before drinking, it only started to open up after a good hour to an hour and a half, revealing typical notes of green apple and crushed rock minerality. It is a savoury white wine, one that drinks a bit like a red wine. It should benefit from cellaring for 6-8 years.

2011 SAVENNIERES ROCHE-AUX-MOINES
Producer: Chateau Pierre Bise
Variety: Chenin Blanc
Vintage: 2011
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 14%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 27 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. With decanting, opens up to reveal notes of green apples, cider?!, pear, crushed rocks. Dry, medium bodied, savoury and ‘serious’, but not austere in any way. Fleshy and with good palate weight. Like licking wet stones, slightly fermented apples. Lovely stuff in its context.
Score: 17/20