Few would argue that some years ago Jeffrey Grosset took over John Vickery’s mantle of ‘King of Riesling’. Year in year out, Grosset Polish Hill Riesling sets the benchmark as far as Australian Riesling is concerned. Normally austere, rather reserved and perhaps a touch difficult on release, it blossoms with time in bottle to reveal pithy citrus fruit intertwined with stony minerality.
Cork has long been a source of frustration for many Riesling producers keen to retain the pristine clarity of their wines. Jeffrey Grosset moved to bottling under screw cap in the 2000 vintage. A tasting of a few bottles from late 1990’s vintages demonstrates just how variably these wines have developed when sealed under cork.
1997 was hailed as a great year for Clare Valley Riesling on release. Yet, with bottle age, many bottles have flattered to deceive. So it was with the first bottle of 1997 Polish Hill Riesling to be opened. Like several from the same vintage before it, the wine was one-dimensional, slightly oxidised, flat and tired. A subsequent bottle tasted a few days later was nearing maturity, but was holding together well and delivered plenty in terms of complexity.
According to Jeffrey Grosset, 1997 was a ‘freak’ year, initially hot and with an extended ripening period, one that wasn’t expected to go the long haul, though some bottles have bucked the trend.
By contrast, recent experiences with the 1998, quite a warm year in the Clare Valley, have shown it to be relatively backward, zippy acidity sharing centre stage with lemon/lime citrus. On this showing, better bottles of the 1998 should have at least a decade up their sleeve.
1999 seems to be heading towards full maturity at a faster rate than the 1998; the palate has broadened and honeyed development has emerged. Unfortunately, the bottle sampled in this instance suffered from low level TCA.
Looking back on these wines reveals some of the qualities of the Polish Hill terroir, and the skill of the winemaker. Unfortunately, all too often though, the limitations of the cork closure seem to have resulted in wines that have developed prematurely and/or inconsistently. It will be interesting to have a taste of a 2000 Polish Hill shortly.
1997 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011
Tasting Note:
Golden amber. Not maderised or oxidised, but very developed. Simple apple fruit on the nose, reflected on the palate. Lacks freshness. Not as flat or clearly oxidised as other 1997 Polish Hill Rieslings, but something clearly is not right here.
Score: Faulty – not rated
1997 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 6 October 2011
Tasting Note:
Mid-gold. Mature nose of honey, lemon/lime marmalade, slightly toasty. No petrol or kerosene whatsoever! Dry, quite oily in texture, lime zest and honey, bitter grapefruit. Still alive, quite vibrant and really quite complex – an enjoyable drink.
Score: 16.5/20
1998 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1998
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 19 September 2011
Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Very clean, fresh and vibrant nose, still youthful; lemon zest, kaffir lime and talc. Dry, medium bodied, quite mineral, typical Clare Valley lemon/lime, barest hint of honeyed maturity. This wine has barely moved in the past 6-7 years! Youthful austerity has disappeared and the wine has started to fill out. Excellent! Well cellared, it should keep for another 10 or more years. What one wants and expects from Polish Hill Riesling!
Score: 17.5/20
1999 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1999
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 September 2011
Tasting Note:
Evolved yellow gold. Muted nose showing the classic signs of TCA.
Score: Faulty – not rated
Cork has long been a source of frustration for many Riesling producers keen to retain the pristine clarity of their wines. Jeffrey Grosset moved to bottling under screw cap in the 2000 vintage. A tasting of a few bottles from late 1990’s vintages demonstrates just how variably these wines have developed when sealed under cork.
1997 was hailed as a great year for Clare Valley Riesling on release. Yet, with bottle age, many bottles have flattered to deceive. So it was with the first bottle of 1997 Polish Hill Riesling to be opened. Like several from the same vintage before it, the wine was one-dimensional, slightly oxidised, flat and tired. A subsequent bottle tasted a few days later was nearing maturity, but was holding together well and delivered plenty in terms of complexity.
According to Jeffrey Grosset, 1997 was a ‘freak’ year, initially hot and with an extended ripening period, one that wasn’t expected to go the long haul, though some bottles have bucked the trend.
By contrast, recent experiences with the 1998, quite a warm year in the Clare Valley, have shown it to be relatively backward, zippy acidity sharing centre stage with lemon/lime citrus. On this showing, better bottles of the 1998 should have at least a decade up their sleeve.
1999 seems to be heading towards full maturity at a faster rate than the 1998; the palate has broadened and honeyed development has emerged. Unfortunately, the bottle sampled in this instance suffered from low level TCA.
Looking back on these wines reveals some of the qualities of the Polish Hill terroir, and the skill of the winemaker. Unfortunately, all too often though, the limitations of the cork closure seem to have resulted in wines that have developed prematurely and/or inconsistently. It will be interesting to have a taste of a 2000 Polish Hill shortly.
1997 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 18 September 2011
Tasting Note:
Golden amber. Not maderised or oxidised, but very developed. Simple apple fruit on the nose, reflected on the palate. Lacks freshness. Not as flat or clearly oxidised as other 1997 Polish Hill Rieslings, but something clearly is not right here.
Score: Faulty – not rated
1997 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 6 October 2011
Tasting Note:
Mid-gold. Mature nose of honey, lemon/lime marmalade, slightly toasty. No petrol or kerosene whatsoever! Dry, quite oily in texture, lime zest and honey, bitter grapefruit. Still alive, quite vibrant and really quite complex – an enjoyable drink.
Score: 16.5/20
1998 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1998
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 19 September 2011
Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Very clean, fresh and vibrant nose, still youthful; lemon zest, kaffir lime and talc. Dry, medium bodied, quite mineral, typical Clare Valley lemon/lime, barest hint of honeyed maturity. This wine has barely moved in the past 6-7 years! Youthful austerity has disappeared and the wine has started to fill out. Excellent! Well cellared, it should keep for another 10 or more years. What one wants and expects from Polish Hill Riesling!
Score: 17.5/20
1999 GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING Producer: Grosset
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 1999
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 September 2011
Tasting Note:
Evolved yellow gold. Muted nose showing the classic signs of TCA.
Score: Faulty – not rated
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