31 January 2012

SYRAH VS. SHIRAZ

It’s interesting to compare two Australian wines, both from the same grape, one grown in a warm climate reigon, the other in a relatively cool one. Both are made in a completely different style, the Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, as traditionally Australian, more particularly Barossan, as a full bodied red wine can be.

Castagna Genesis Syrah, from Beechworth, is an interloper by comparison. Stylistically, it is closer to the northern Rhône than traditional Australian Shiraz, hence it being labelled as Syrah rather than Shiraz. A decade on from vintage, it has become more Rhône like, with suggestions of hung game, white pepper and charcuterie. It is still relatively young and should be at its apogee in 4-5 years time. It’s an excellent example of the style.

The 2001 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz isn’t quite ‘in the zone’ yet and may well be in a bit of a dip. It’s still primary fruit driven, but offering relatively little by way of genuine complexity at this point in time. Based on recent evidence with a superb 1997 Basket Press Shiraz, it is premature to write this wine off; it just needs time.

2001 GENESIS SYRAH

Producer: Castagna
Variety: Shiraz/Syrah
Vintage: 2001
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
ABV: 13.8%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 17 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson fading slightly at the rim. Prototypical ‘Syrah’nose; peppery, meaty and gamey. Still very primary. Full bodied, savoury and extremely well balanced. On the palate, much the same as the nose, overlaying ripe raspberry fruit and a touch of tar. Finishes very long. A very elegant and stylish wine that has come on leaps and bounds since last tasted several years ago. Proof positive that Australia can produce ‘Syrah’ as well as big friendly Shiraz.
Score: 17.5/20

2001 BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford Wines
Variety: Shiraz/Syrah
Vintage: 2001
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 17 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Bold and fruity nose, slightly medicinal (mint/menthol). Full bodied, sweet fruited but dry, prunes and damsons, velvet smooth and plush with, balanced alcohol and low acidity. All in all, this vintage of Rockford Basket Press is showing a bit polite and four square. It’s perfectly round and smooth, but there’s not a great deal of excitement on offer. A decent bottle, but not particularly complex or exciting. Needs another few years to start strutting its stuff.
Score: 16+/20

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