THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART THREE - LARMANDIER-BERNIER

Larmandier-Bernier sits at the summit of Champagne’s growers. Based in the village of Vertus in the Côte de Blancs, it produces a range of primarily Chardonnay-based terroir-focused wines from 16 hectares of owned vineyards.

As a grower, Larmandier-Bernier is in stark contrast to the large houses. All of its vineyard holdings are farmed biodyamically, something that is impossible for the big guns sourcing from dozens of growers across the region. Oak barrels are the preferred fermentation and maturation vessel, though two concrete eggs are employed exclusively for the Pinot Noir-based rosé.

In terms of philosophy, Larmandier-Bernier is more aligned with a small Burgundy domaine than Champagne’s larger houses. The traditional Champagne bywords of ‘blending for consistency’ is of little import here compared to that of terroir expression.

There is real quality to be found throughout the entire Larmandier-Berner range and a sense of place that isn’t always evident with the wines of the larger houses. All of the wines show a real mineral edge akin to licking chalk. While dosage levels are low (no greater than 4g/l), there is no sense of austerity in any of the wines, such is the quality of the fruit at the estate’s disposal.

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Premier Cru Pinot Noir fruit from Vertus fermented in concrete eggs. Dosage is 3g/l.
Bright strawberry pink – quite deep in colour. Elegant lifted nose of cranberry, redcurrant rhubarb. Delicate, elegant red-fruited palate. Very bright and lively. Great rosé Champagne!
Score: 17.5+/20

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER LATITUDE
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from vines planted on deeper and richer topsoils in Vertus. The 2011 vintage provides the base for this release, blended with 30% reserve wines from 2004 to 2010. Dosage is 4g/l. Dry, very delicate and elegant. Crisp green apple and chalky minerals. Zesty citrus acidity carries the finish. More mineral that fruity.
Score: 17/20

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER LONGITUDE 1ER CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from vines planted on thin topsoils in Vertus and Cramant. Based on the 2010 vintage with 40% reserve wines.
Lifted nose of whitecurrants, grapefruit. Very delicate, refined and elegant. Lively and very long on the finish. Chalky mineral grip.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 LARMANDIER-BERNIER TERRE DE VERTUS 1ER CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard Chardonnay. No dosage.
Open and expansive nose of white fruit, touch of pain grillé and hazelnut. Bone dry, delicate. Lemon citrus and minerals (crushed rocks?!). Very long.
Score: 18/20

2009 LARMANDIER-BERNIER LES CHEMINS D’AVIZE GRAND CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard Chardonnay.
No dosage. Lifted, perfumed nose – floral, acacia. Dry, earthy, racy. Very mineral and tense. Like a young Grand Cru Chablis! Should flower in bottle.
Score: 18.5+/20 

2006 LARMANDIER-BERNIER VIELLES VIGNES CRAMANT GRAND CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2006
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Six years on lees.
Open and expansive nose – honeycomb, crème brulée, spice. Dry, elegant and stylish. Plenty of complexity on show here. Quite superb.
Score: 18.5+/20