THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART TWO - DOMAINE WEINBACH

Domaine Weinbach, owned by the Faller family, is one of the great names in Alsace. Situated at the entry to the village of Kaysersberg with the imposing walled Clos des Capucins, the estate draws on fruit from the clos, as well as the nearby Grand Crus of Schlossberg, Furstentum and Mambourg, all of which are farmed biodynamically.

The domaine was recently rocked by the untimely and premature passing of Catherine Faller, one of two sisters who had for many years taken responsibility for day-to-day operations. As one of the world’s great female winemakers, her loss has been felt across the wine world.

As is the case with many Alsatian domaines, the range here is extensive, encompassing a wide range of varietals, sites and ripeness/sugar levels. On evidence of wines tasted at the domaine, and other wines enjoyed while in the region, quality is high across the board.

For this particular imbiber, the real stars of the show is the sweeter wines (the 2012 Gewürtztraminer Mambourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives and the 2010 Pinot Gris Cuvée d’Or Quintessence de Grain Nobles are both stunning wines). They combine a rich lusciousness with remarkable complexity and incredible finesse.

Gewürtztraminer has long been regarded a forté of Domaine Weinbach, reinforced the wines tasted at this visit. In the hands of Weinbach, Gewürtztraminer transcends the stereotype of rose petal and lychee, with stonefruit and baked apple also thrown into the mix – a variety that can be enjoyable, but rather tiring is transformed into a multi-faceted and compelling one at this address.

In sum, the wines of Domaine Weinbach serve to justify its lofty position in France’s wine consciousness. There is a clarity and sense of elegance that runs throughout the wines.

2012 PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
No new oak. Domaine Weinbach also make another Pinot Noir, Cuvée W, that sees partial maturation in new wood.
Bright cherry red. Light and fresh. Crème de mure, marzipan, cherry and rhubarb. Dry, ripe supple tannins, sour cherry. No lack of acidity. Good length.
Score: 16/20

2012 ‘CUVÉE THEO’ RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Weinbach

Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 1 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow in appearance. Open and aromatic nose of orange zest, stonefruit and crystallised ginger. Dry, medium bodied, zesty and fresh. Attractive blend of stonefruit and citrus with tangy acidity carrying the finish.
Score: 17/20

2013 RIESLING ‘CUVÉE THEO’
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Draws on 35 year old vines from the Clos des Capucins. Recently bottled.
Open and aromatic nose of grapefruit, peach, apple and pear. Direct and straightforward palate of crab apple/green apple and lemon citrus. Will benefit from more time in bottle.
Score: 16+/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
From the upper part of the Schlossberg Grand Cru vineyard. Not yet bottled.
Aromatic, slightly floral nose, white peach. Mineral. Delicate and elegant, green apple, peach, floral notes. Bright tingle of acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5++/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG CUVÉE STE. CATHERINE GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Tight and mineral. Floral – apple blossom, pear. Dry, medium bodied; pear, apple and white peach. Good length.
Score: 17+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RÉSERVE CLOS DES CAPUCINS
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Driest and lightest Gewürztraminer made at Domaine Weinbach.
Typical Gewürztraminer nose and palate. Quite light and easy. Not too phenolic. Good length and overall balance.
Score: 16.5/20 

2009 GEWÜRZRTRAMINER ALTENBOURG
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 4 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Lifted floral bouquet of rose petal and talc. Off-dry, excellent fruit intensity, stonefruit (yellow peach, nectarine), caramelised pineapple, touch of spice on the finish. Relatively low acidity. Good!
Score: 17/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Baked apple pie and streudel straight out of the oven. Slightly exotic edge – lychee. Medium sweet. Good fruit intensity. Lacking slightly on the mid-palate.
Score: 16/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER MAMBOURG GRAND CRU VENDANGES TARDIVES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Grown on clay/limestone soil, which lends the wine a velvet texture.
Gently aromatic nose – not too extrovert. Sweet but delicate. Lychee, rhubarb, white peach, Mirabelle, spice. Doesn’t cloy. Finishes very long! Outstanding.
Score: 18.5/20

2006 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Enormous concentration. Intense and exotic – apple, apricot, yellow plum and lychee. Sweet, elegant and fine.
Score: 18/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CUVÉE D’OR QUINTESSENCE DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 10.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Made from fruit grown below the Furstentum Grand Cru.
Intense and driven - apple crumble. Sweet, enormously concentrated, lovely sherbet-tang balances the sweetness and richness. Stylish and elegant. Exceptional.
Score: 19/20