17 July 2014

2009 CHATEAU DES JACQUES MOULIN-A-VENT - LAYING DOWN THE LAW

Louis Jadot was one of the first of a catalogue of Burgundy producers that have invested in Beaujolais.  With holdings in Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent, Jadot is represented in two of the region’s great communes, both of which are capable of producing structured and ageworthy wines.

Much has been said and written, some positive, some negative, about the success or otherwise of Jadot’s use of Burgundian vinification (as opposed to traditional carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration) and the use of new oak in Beaujolais.

In terms of so-called ‘traditional’ cru Beaujolais (whatever that may be), Jadot’s bottlings are not necessarily typical; they possess a certain voluptuousness and sheen of oak that isn’t associated with Gamay and Beaujolais. All of this said and done, it is a style that has its appeal. The 2009 rendition of Chateau des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent displays some of the oaky capriciousness of youth, and is still marked by sturdy tannins.

There is plenty of quality here, and it is an interesting expression of Moulin-a-Vent. It will be an interesting wine to follow over the next several years, to see if it ‘goes Pinot’ as some would suggest. Whether or not one is a fan of the style, Jadot has undoubtedly added to the breadth of Beaujolais and been an instrumental part of the region’s gradual revival. On this viewing, there’s plenty to like, but it would appear that a degree of patience might be required.

2009 CHATEAU DES JACQUES MOULIN-A-VENT
Producer: Chateau des Jacques (Louis Jadot)
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 29 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Slightly closed nose. Damson, cherry and woodsmoke. Dry and savoury on the palate. Good palate weight – rich but not heavy. Oak is well integrated. Tannins make their presence felt on the finish. Needs time.
Score: 16++/20

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