8 July 2014

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART THREE - DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT


Even by the standards of Alsace, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht has a large portfolio, with around 35-40 wines traversing the region’s noble varietals (and one or two that aren’t!), vineyards and residual sweetness levels.

The estate is based in the village of Turckheim roughly 15 kilometres north of Colmar. The estate style, if one was to typify it, favours boldly flavoured, powerful wines that need at least medium term cellaring to reveal their full potential. To some extent, the wines tend to be marked by power more than finesse, but this is a small criticism.

In this particular imbiber’s opinion, the wines of Zind-Humbrecht are in marked contrast to those of Trimbach, which tend toward austerity and a steely line of acidity when young. Some might find the generosity (and occasional high alcohol levels one encounters) of certain Zind-Humbrecht wines to be a touch excessive. But it is very much a matter of personal taste. Of the wines tasted on this visit, Gewurztraminer Hengst at 15% ABV was one of the real stars; powerful and rich, but balanced, stylish and complex.

2012 MUSCAT GOLDERT GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Muscat
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Located in the village of Guebschwir.
Densely textured. Typical ‘grapey’ Muscat character. Dry, quite rich, slightly oily. Long finish.
Score: 17/20

2012 ZIND
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Chardonnay (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Auxerrois)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Aged in new foudres. Use of Chardonnay, only allowed in Cremant d’Alsace, means that it has to be labelled as a Vin de Table.
Lifted nose of lime and grapefruit, touch of oak spice. Citrussy acidity up-front, stone-fruit on the mid—palate. Somewhat of an oddity in the realm of aromatic Alsatian wines.
Score: 15.5/20

2012 RIESLING HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Fruit grown on the plains of Turckheim.
Direct and straightforward on both the palate and nose. Seems a touch dilute. Key lime pie?
Score: 15/20

2012 RIESLING 'CLOS HAUSERER'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vines planted in 1973 and 1974.
Slightly closed. Delicate citrus aromatics, stonefruit. Quite textured on the palate. Structured. Not yielding much at present but shows promise.
Score: 16+/20

2011 RIESLING 'CLOS WINDSBUHL'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
2012 vintage is still fermenting! Grown on pure limestone at 250m elevation.
Direct nose of stonefruit and spice. Lovely underbelly of fine acidity. Showing the benefit of bottle age and starting to fill out. Very good.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Zind-Humbrecht owns seven parcels in Brand. Pink granite soils.
Delicate. Starting to come together. Zesty lemon/lime sherbet. Concentrated. Alive!! Real structure for ageing.
Score: 17/20

2012 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
11g/l residual sugar – slightly sweeter than the 2011.
Soft acid line. Open and forward. Not as compelling as the 2011.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Southern-most Grand Cru in Alsace. Volcanic soil. 350m-400m elevation.
Slightly baked character. Rich, flinty and smoky. Some real interest.
Score: 17/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Delicate. Medium sweet. Typical apple and pear fruit profile. Slightly pinched on the finish, A touch simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Elegant and delicate. Apple, pear and spice. Dry. Nice balancing acidity. Young and structured – needs time.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Freshly buttered toast. Lime/lemon, red apples and spice. More open than the 2012. Good.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS RANGE DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN
'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Open and inviting nose of baked apple pie. Medium sweet. Roundly textured. Sweet but balanced. Yum!
Score: 17/20


2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Prototypical Gewürztraminer nose – lifted, musky and floral. Dry, round and creamy – very much a food style. Desperately needs appropriate food; onion tart perhaps?!
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER CALCAIRE
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Two parcels of younger vines, mostly from Hengst.
Coiled. Quite subtle. NOT in your face Gewürz. Off-dry, yellow plum, baked pear/apple.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HENGST GRAND CRU

Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Hengst is a late ripening site.
Dense and concentrated. Touch of Earl Grey tea. Funky and earthy. Real interest on display here. Medium sweet, quite spicy. Opulent but far from over the top. Well balanced.
Score: 17.5+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Concentrated, open and intense. Not as complex, but more restrained and elegant than the Hengst. Compact and stylish.
Score: 17/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CLOS JEBSAL SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES ‘TRIE SPECIALE’

Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety:
Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 6.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
More than 200g/l residual sugar. From the lower part of the Brand Grand Cru.
Golden yellow. Very intense and powerful. Rich baked fruit, raisins. Butterscotch and honey. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

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