THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART ONE - DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS

Marcel Deiss is a 27 hectare domaine situated in the village of Bergheim, roughly 25 kilometres north of Colmar. In a region where single varietal wines dominate, Deiss has adopted an approach that emphasises on terroir expression, regardless of cepage. As such, it produces field blends, some of which use all 13 of the permitted Alsace grape varieties, white and red.

Interestingly, co-planted varieties flower at the same time. They are also picked at the same time and co-fermented. Deiss argues that co-fermentation provides for better integration. The estate’s entry level wines includes three mono-cepage wines; a Riesling, Pinot Gris and a Gewurztraminer. Thereafter, it is vineyard name that takes centre stage.

Domaine Marcel Deiss is 100% biodynamic and is moving toward ‘model forestière’, which embodies the concept of ‘nature in harmony’. Trees have been planted both around and inside vineyards. The result thus far has been improved flowering.

The estate's holdings are focused around the village of Bergheim, including the Altenberg Grand Cru, save for Manbourg near Colmar and Schoenbourg in Riquewihr.

The wines of Marcel Deiss are not only among the best made in Alsace, but the best white wines made anywhere. Across the entire range, they manage a wonderful balance of powerful, intense fruit, vibrant acidity, elegance and complexity.

2012 ALSACE
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of all 13 permitted Alsatian varieties.
Bright aromatic nose of lychee and apple blossom. Very fresh and vibrant. Medium bodied, touch phenolic. Good fruit intensity. Spice carries the finish which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014
Tasting Note:
Sourced from fruit grown in Bergheim and the nearby village of St Hippolyte.
Delicate and steely citrus-laden nose. Elegant, refined and pretty. Very pure and driven. Lemon citrus, pear and apple on the palate. Delicious.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Off-dry, round and elegant. Very well balanced. A style that really works. Fine and long. Not oily or alcoholic.
Score: 16/20

2011 BERCKEM
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly with all other 12 Alsace varieties in the mix. All of the fruit comes from the village of Bergheim (Berckem is the old name for Bergheim). 15g/l residual sugar.
Attractive aromatic nose – definitely some Gewurztraminer or Muscat here. Touch of sweetness up-front, medium bodied, refined and elegant. Real style and verve on display here. Lovely melange of spice and exotic fruit. Delicious!
Score: 17/20

2008 BURLENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir with a contribution from all of the white Pinot varieties. 60% whole bunches. Fruit is sourced from a Premier Cru site which is at 280m elevation.
Mid-cherry red. Alluring nose of rhubarb and black cherry, distinctive note of black pepper. Real intensity and depth, brooding yet subtle. Definitely Pinot Noir of real quality, but not Burgundy. Stylish and suave. Un 'vin de sommelier'!.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 LANGENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Pinot Noir and Muscat from vines grown on granite soils in St Hippolyte.
Delicate nose of apple, floral notes, phenolic. Round, compact and elegant. Real drive and cut through the mid-palate. Round and with plenty of depth, yet elegant at the same time.
Score: 17/20

2011 ENGELGARTEN
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vineyard is located immediately behind the Deiss cellar in Bergheim. Blend of Riesling, the Pinots and Muscat.
Bold and flamboyant. A veritable apple tarte tatin of a wine. Rich and voluminous. Lots to enjoy.
Score: 17/20

2010 ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
South facing site located next to Engelgarten. Limestone soils. Two-way blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris. 25g/l residual sugar.
Real lift, concentration and depth. Citrus and baked apple. Plenty of zing on the finish. Starts sweet, but finishes very fresh and dry. Delicious.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 SCHOFFWEG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling and various Pinots grown on soft calcareous sub-soil. Vineyard is located to the east of the Altenberg Grand Cru site.
Open nose of crème patissiere and key lime pie! Dry and mineral, touch austere, needs time! Structured and slightly backward. Touch of tannin. Nose is more open than the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 GRASBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
North facing site at 350m elevation. Blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.
Aromatic and complex. Tightly coiled. Real depth and style. Steely acidity carries the finish.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GRUENSPIEL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep heavy clay soils. One third each of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. A long ageing wine that is typically austere and tight when young.
Brooding and voluminous. Lots of spice. Mineral rather than fruit. Not yielding a great deal at present. Wide and expansive – full bodied. Tastes like there could be Pinot Blanc in the mix?!? A big wine that needs time.
Score: 17??/20

2009 BURG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Small river runs through the vineyard, encouraging botrytis.
Off-dry. Citrus, dried apricot, peach and cumquat. Long line of fine acidity carries the finish. Quite brilliant!
Score: 18.5/20

2008 HUEBUHL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces high levels of botrytis early in the season. Blend of the Pinots and Muscat.
Bright golden yellow. Vibrant nose of quince, spiced apples and honeycomb. Medium sweet. Real fireworks in the mouth – a veritable explosion of flavour. Very complete and together. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

2011 MANBOURG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces wines with typically soft tannins. A regular source for sweet wines, but being windy botrytis rarely occurs.
Lime, pear, spice and crushed minerals. Elegant, medium bodied, very delicate and fine. Vibrant acidity. Delicate and pretty. Needs time.
Score: 18/20

2009 ALTENBERG DE BERGHEIM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Botrytis occurs late in the season every year. Picked 5 weeks later than Manbourg. Blend of all 13 permitted varieties. 70g/l residual sugar.
Very pretty, aromatic and perfumed. Medium sweet, delicate and fine. Quite backward – not as expressive as the 1er Crus at this point in its evolution. Will literally flower with bottle age.
Score: 18.5/20

2009 SCHOENBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Aromatic White blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Site is located in Riquewihr. Sourse of some of the longest ageing wines in Alsace. Clay/gypsum soil high in sulphur. Susceptible to botrytis. Blend of Riesling and 20% of the other 12 Alsace varieties.
Pretty, elegant and fine – featherweight in texture. Real depth, concentration and intensity, yet remarkably delicate and elegant. A truly outstanding white wine.
Score: 19.5/20