This is the first of a series of reports form recent travels through Champagne and Alsace. It was the fourth time the Penguin had visited Champagne, but proved to be a real eye-opener, a chance to get out among the villages and get a genuine feel for the region. At a superficial level, Champagne is about marketing gloss, but dig a little bit further and it is a fascinating region, producers small and large making varied expressions of the world’s greatest sparkling wine.
We start this series with Bollinger, one of Champagne’s big guns. Established in 1829, Bollinger has 164 hectares of owned vineyard, supplemented by fruit that is sourced via contracted growers (roughly 40% is bought in).
As many will no doubt be aware, Bollinger is a Pinot Noir-dominant style characterised by an oxidative notes thanks to partial fermentation and maturation in oak barrels. One should note that the use of wood is not about imparting oak-derived characters, but oxygen exchange. Average barrel age is 5 years.
Oak is reserved for juice from Premier and Grand Cru fruit, meaning that less than 30% of the must designated for Special Cuvée spends time in wood. This increases up to 100% for vintage bottlings. The folks at Bollinger argue that the slow process of micro-oxygenation via the wood protects the wine. By way of example, no sulphur dioxide is added at disgorgement; it’s simply “not needed”.
What of the wines themselves? This particular tasting was limited to the Special Cuvée and Grande Année 2004 (sadly no sign of the recently released Bollinger RD 2002). This particular showing was a most positive one, both wines displaying a lovely balance of richness, elegance and complexity. Most importantly, there was a genuine freshness to both wines. There has been talk that current releases aren't meeting the lofty standards one expects of Bollinger, but this showing was extremely positive.
NV BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014
Tasting Note:
Minimum of 3 years on lees. Dosage is 9g/l.
Open and complex nose of crème patissière, brioche, honey, acacia and stonefruit. Elegant, delicate and fine. Fades slightly in the glass, but an excellent showing for Bollinger’s volume driver.
Score: 16/20
2004 BOLLINGER GRANDE ANNÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014
Tasting Note:
Made exclusively from Premier and Grand Cru fruit. Minimum of 7 years on lees. Dosage is 8g/l. Intense and brooding – powerfiul and elegant at one. A touch closed perhaps? Certainly not as open or giving as the Special Cuvée at this point in time. Pinot Noir drives both the bouquet and palate. Tightly coiled and needing time. Will reward patience.
Score: 17.5/20
We start this series with Bollinger, one of Champagne’s big guns. Established in 1829, Bollinger has 164 hectares of owned vineyard, supplemented by fruit that is sourced via contracted growers (roughly 40% is bought in).
As many will no doubt be aware, Bollinger is a Pinot Noir-dominant style characterised by an oxidative notes thanks to partial fermentation and maturation in oak barrels. One should note that the use of wood is not about imparting oak-derived characters, but oxygen exchange. Average barrel age is 5 years. Oak is reserved for juice from Premier and Grand Cru fruit, meaning that less than 30% of the must designated for Special Cuvée spends time in wood. This increases up to 100% for vintage bottlings. The folks at Bollinger argue that the slow process of micro-oxygenation via the wood protects the wine. By way of example, no sulphur dioxide is added at disgorgement; it’s simply “not needed”.
What of the wines themselves? This particular tasting was limited to the Special Cuvée and Grande Année 2004 (sadly no sign of the recently released Bollinger RD 2002). This particular showing was a most positive one, both wines displaying a lovely balance of richness, elegance and complexity. Most importantly, there was a genuine freshness to both wines. There has been talk that current releases aren't meeting the lofty standards one expects of Bollinger, but this showing was extremely positive.NV BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014
Tasting Note:
Minimum of 3 years on lees. Dosage is 9g/l.
Open and complex nose of crème patissière, brioche, honey, acacia and stonefruit. Elegant, delicate and fine. Fades slightly in the glass, but an excellent showing for Bollinger’s volume driver.
Score: 16/20
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014
Tasting Note:
Made exclusively from Premier and Grand Cru fruit. Minimum of 7 years on lees. Dosage is 8g/l. Intense and brooding – powerfiul and elegant at one. A touch closed perhaps? Certainly not as open or giving as the Special Cuvée at this point in time. Pinot Noir drives both the bouquet and palate. Tightly coiled and needing time. Will reward patience.
Score: 17.5/20
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