17 July 2014

2012 DOMAINE TOURNON 'MATHILDA' VICTORIA SHIRAZ - ACES HIGH!


Chapoutier is one of the big Rhone Valley grower/negociants making wines from generic Côtes du Rhône through outstanding long-lived ‘sélection parcellaires’ from lieux-dits on the hill of Hermitage. For some time, Michel Chapoutier has had a presence in Australia, including as a joint venture partner with Jasper Hill’s Ron Laughton and on his own at Domaine Tournon.

Not surprisingly, Chapoutier’s Australian releases have, thus far, principally focused on traditional Rhone varieties; Syrah for red, Viognier and Marsanne for white. ‘Mathilda’ Shiraz is the entry level bottling from Chapoutier’s Victorian operation under the Domaine Tournon level.

The 2012 is an excellent example of how to turn out an interesting, superbly drinkable wine at a very modest price. There’s no trickery at work from a winemaking perspective, the wine being fermented exclusively in tank, seeing no oak whatsoever. The result is a bright, slightly funky dry red wine with a very pleasant wild rusticity. There’s no spit and polish or tarting up here, just a simple, juicy and flavoursome wine that is plenty of fun to drink.

If the Domaine Tournon ‘Mathilda’ Shiraz 2012 is anything to go by, the team at Chapoutier has successfully married French expertise and food friendliness with Australian terroir and ripeness. It has to be one of the better sub-$20 red wines on the market in this country at present.

2012 DOMAINE TOURNON ‘MATHILDA’ VICTORIA SHIRAZ
Producer: Chapoutier Australia
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2012
Region: Multi-regional, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $16.00
Date tasted: 27 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Open aromatic nose, slightly wild, dusty dried herbs (sage, rosemary), fennel, black pepper, raspberry and redcurrant. Dry, medium bodied and elegant, needs a little air. Not as complex on the palate as the nose, but there’s plenty of fun to be had. Wild and slightly rustic, but in a good way. Plenty of pleasure if not that intellectually challenging.
Score: 16.5/20

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