As a region, Beaujolais is undergoing a slow revival. It is gradually emerging from the pall of industrial Beaujolais Nouveau thanks to the emergence of a generation of talented and hard working small producers. The fact that producers from Burgundy have invested in the region is a further vote of confidence in the potential of Beaujolais.
Thankfully, quality Cru Beaujolais (wine grown in the 10 named Beaujolais communes - Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Regnié, St Amour) remains affordable. One can procure bottles from quality producers at less than $45 per bottle.
Jean Marc-Burgaud is one such quality-minded producer. Based in Villié-Morgon, Burgaud makes an excellent Beaujolais Villages, as well as wines from Regnié and Morgon. His Morgon Côte du Py is an assemblage drawn from several sites on the rocky, schistous hill of Py. The wine is fermented traditionally using semi-carbonic maceration.
At this stage of its evolution, the wine is marked by the tannin of youth, with a distinctive stony minerality underpinning bright red fruits. Those seeking gentle, soft, easy-going Beaujolais should look elsewhere, as the style here is structured, savoury and somewhat confronting. This is a wine with attitude, one that ‘bites back’!
2010 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD MORGON CÔTE DU PY
Producer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 26 July 2014
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet. Open nose of damson, redcurrant, pomegranate and silica. Dry, medium bodied, quite crunchy in texture. Savoury, red fruit to the fore. Powdery tannins dominate the wine’s structure at present.
Score: 16+/20
Thankfully, quality Cru Beaujolais (wine grown in the 10 named Beaujolais communes - Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Regnié, St Amour) remains affordable. One can procure bottles from quality producers at less than $45 per bottle.
Jean Marc-Burgaud is one such quality-minded producer. Based in Villié-Morgon, Burgaud makes an excellent Beaujolais Villages, as well as wines from Regnié and Morgon. His Morgon Côte du Py is an assemblage drawn from several sites on the rocky, schistous hill of Py. The wine is fermented traditionally using semi-carbonic maceration.
At this stage of its evolution, the wine is marked by the tannin of youth, with a distinctive stony minerality underpinning bright red fruits. Those seeking gentle, soft, easy-going Beaujolais should look elsewhere, as the style here is structured, savoury and somewhat confronting. This is a wine with attitude, one that ‘bites back’!
2010 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD MORGON CÔTE DU PYProducer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 26 July 2014
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet. Open nose of damson, redcurrant, pomegranate and silica. Dry, medium bodied, quite crunchy in texture. Savoury, red fruit to the fore. Powdery tannins dominate the wine’s structure at present.
Score: 16+/20
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