The 2004 Bordeaux vintage was arguably the last ‘good value’ vintage in this great region. It lacked the star billing of 2005, 2009 and 2010 and hit the market at the time when Bordeaux was on the rise, but hadn’t gone crazy. If there is one word to describe 2004, it would have to be ‘classical’. It is a year of generally well proportioned wines with moderate alcohols, good concentration and balance.
While lacking the immense concentration, power and structure of truly great vintages, many 2004’s have shaped up rather well. A decade on from vintage and Château Batailley is starting to flesh out nicely. While the first bottle opened sadly reeked of corked taint, the second was textbook Left Bank Bordeaux just entering its drinking window.
In terms of colour, the wine is saturated crimson. The bouquet displays smoky oak intermingled with dusty blackcurrant fruit, confirming the wine’s relative youth. The wine has opened up somewhat compared to the last bottle enjoyed back in March 2012, but a touch of tannin on the back-palate suggest room for further evolution.
All in all, there’s plenty to like here, particularly in view of the fact that the wine was procured for around AUD300 for a case of 12 before taxes as part of the 2004 Bordeaux en-primeur campaign. While it mightn’t challenge for the title of ‘best ever’ or deliver a ’60 second finish’ it does what good wine should do; satisfy, create pleasure and put a smile on one’s face.
2004 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEYProducer: Château Batailley
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Pauillac - Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 20 July 2014
Tasting Note:
First bottle was corked. Opaque crimson verging on black. Prototypical Left Bank Bordeaux nose of charcoal and woodsmoke; very Cabernet (blackcurrant, dusty gravel). Medium bodied, dry and savoury, quite aristocratic. Starting to come into its own, though a touch of dry tannin on the finish suggests room for further evolution.
Score: 17/20
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