2002 CHÂTEAU MUSAR - SWEET AND SOUR

There is little to be said about the great Lebanese estate Chateau Musar that hasn’t already been said and written many times over. In short, the 2002 release is in great form, distinctly Musar with its slight volatility on the nose and wonderful marriage of sweet, savoury and spice on the palate.

If anything, Musar tends to be slightly under-sold in Australia. Perhaps it’s just a bit too quirky for some? For those that know the style, the 2002 is bang on the money, and should reward cellaring from many years to come. For those that don’t. it’s well and truly time to get acquainted to one of the wine world’s true gems.

2002 CHÂTEAU MUSAR
Producer: Château Musar
Variety: Cabernet et al
Vintage: 2002
Region: Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 27 July 2014

Tasting Note:
Mid-ruby red. Open and alluring nose of cherry, sweet plums, sandalwood, leather and exotic spices. Dry, medium bodied, relatively soft tannins, fine balanced acidity. Excellent fruit intensity in the form of a sweet red fruits. Spice on the nose flows through to the palate, lending genuine complexity and a touch of pizzazz!
Score: 17.5/20

2010 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD MORGON CÔTE DU PY - LOVE BITES!

As a region, Beaujolais is undergoing a slow revival. It is gradually emerging from the pall of industrial Beaujolais Nouveau thanks to the emergence of a generation of talented and hard working small producers. The fact that producers from Burgundy have invested in the region is a further vote of confidence in the potential of Beaujolais.

Thankfully, quality Cru Beaujolais (wine grown in the 10 named Beaujolais communes - Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Regnié, St Amour) remains affordable. One can procure bottles from quality producers at less than $45 per bottle.

Jean Marc-Burgaud is one such quality-minded producer. Based in Villié-Morgon, Burgaud makes an excellent Beaujolais Villages, as well as wines from Regnié and Morgon. His Morgon Côte du Py is an assemblage drawn from several sites on the rocky, schistous hill of Py. The wine is fermented traditionally using semi-carbonic maceration.

At this stage of its evolution, the wine is marked by the tannin of youth, with a distinctive stony minerality underpinning bright red fruits. Those seeking gentle, soft, easy-going Beaujolais should look elsewhere, as the style here is structured, savoury and somewhat confronting. This is a wine with attitude, one that ‘bites back’!

2010 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD MORGON CÔTE DU PY
Producer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 26 July 2014

Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet. Open nose of damson, redcurrant, pomegranate and silica. Dry, medium bodied, quite crunchy in texture. Savoury, red fruit to the fore. Powdery tannins dominate the wine’s structure at present.
Score: 16+/20

2004 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY - ON THE UP!

The 2004 Bordeaux vintage was arguably the last ‘good value’ vintage in this great region. It lacked the star billing of 2005, 2009 and 2010 and hit the market at the time when Bordeaux was on the rise, but hadn’t gone crazy. If there is one word to describe 2004, it would have to be ‘classical’. It is a year of generally well proportioned wines with moderate alcohols, good concentration and balance.

While lacking the immense concentration, power and structure of truly great vintages, many 2004’s have shaped up rather well. A decade on from vintage and Château Batailley is starting to flesh out nicely. While the first bottle opened sadly reeked of corked taint, the second was textbook Left Bank Bordeaux just entering its drinking window.

In terms of colour, the wine is saturated crimson. The bouquet displays smoky oak intermingled with dusty blackcurrant fruit, confirming the wine’s relative youth. The wine has opened up somewhat compared to the last bottle enjoyed back in March 2012, but a touch of tannin on the back-palate suggest room for further evolution.

All in all, there’s plenty to like here, particularly in view of the fact that the wine was procured for around AUD300 for a case of 12 before taxes as part of the 2004 Bordeaux en-primeur campaign. While it mightn’t challenge for the title of ‘best ever’ or deliver a ’60 second finish’ it does what good wine should do; satisfy, create pleasure and put a smile on one’s face.

2004 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY
Producer: Château Batailley
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Pauillac - Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 20 July 2014

Tasting Note:
First bottle was corked. Opaque crimson verging on black. Prototypical Left Bank Bordeaux nose of charcoal and woodsmoke; very Cabernet (blackcurrant, dusty gravel). Medium bodied, dry and savoury, quite aristocratic. Starting to come into its own, though a touch of dry tannin on the finish suggests room for further evolution.
Score: 17/20

1997 WENDOUREE PRESSINGS Mb - SHOCKED BY THE POWER

If Wendouree is known for the ageworthiness of its wines, what of a wine made from the Pressings of Malbec?! 17 years on from vintage, Wendouree’s 1997 Pressings Mb is starting to hit its straps. The tannic framework of youth has fully resolved and the wine has developed considerable aromatic complexity.

While Wendouree is often associated with power, it would be wrong to caricature wines such as this as one-dimensional monsters. In fact, there’s an almost European elegance at play here, and genuine savoury quality to the wine that sets it apart from many Australian dry red wines.

Squeezed in between the lauded 1996 and 1998 vintages, 1997 in South Australia never received and great plaudits for red wines (Clare Valley Riesling was an entirely different matter). However, this particular bottle again demonstrates that better 1997’s have a lot to offer. There’s an almost regal quality to this outstanding Wendouree wine. Although delivering plenty of pleasure now, it has sufficient stuffing to go another decade and more.

1997 WENDOUREE PRESSINGS Mb
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Malbec
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 12 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Alluring nose of tilled earth, mint, anise, blackcurrant and plum, touch of woodsmoke. Full bodied, dry and savoury. Tannins are fully resolved, but the wine is still very much primary fruit driven. Quite ‘Old World’ like in terms of its savoury palate and elegance. Aristocratic!
Score: 18/20

2006 DÖNNHOFF SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIMER FELSENBERG RIESLING SPÄTLESE - DYNAMITE!

The name Dönnhoff needs no introduction to lovers of Riesling. The Nahe estate ranks among Germany’s best and with good reason. This 2006 Spätlese from the Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg vineyard is a superbly balanced wine, the residual sugar held in check by fine, brisk acidity.

This is the sort of wine that makes Riesling such a compelling grape and leaves one wondering why so many simply ‘don’t get it’. The combination of stonefruit and zesty citrus literally explodes in the mouth. The wine remains light on its feet, yet is immensely satisfying. It’s hard to think of a better start to a lazy Sunday afternoon.

2006 DÖNNHOFF SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIMER FELSENBERG RIESLING SPÄTLESE
Producer: Dönnhoff
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2006
Region: Nahe, Germany
ABV: 8.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 13 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright yellow with golden tinges. Open and aromatic nose of stonefruit (apricot, peach), cumquat and lime citrus. Off-dry (not too sweet), medium bodied, superbly balanced palate. A lovely melange of rich sweet stonefruit and fresh zesty citrus. Lively, complex and ever-so vibrant. An absolutely pleasure to drink. In a good place now, but should continue to develop in bottle for many years to come.
Score: 18/20

2008 WHISTLING EAGLE 'EAGLE'S BLOOD' SHIRAZ - SMOKE ON THE WATER

Heathcote’s Cambrian soils produce some of Victoria’s most boldly flavoured and distinctive Shiraz. From Wild Duck Creek to Jasper Hill, it is the home of a number of sought after producers. Whistling Eagle mightn’t be quite as well known as the aforementioned two, but its wines are rated highly by those in the know.

For many years the Whistling Eagle vineyard supplied Hardy’s flagship Eileen Hardy Shiraz before the Rathjen family started producing their own wine in commercial volumes. The 2008 Whistling Eagle ‘Eagle’s Blood’ Shiraz delivers the power and intensity one expects of Heathcote. At 15.5% ABV it is by no means a shy and retiring customer, but it is well balanced and even displays a modicum of elegance.

At this point in its evolution, the wine is yet to fully come together. There’s a considerable lustre of polished smoky oak which will no doubt sit better in the wine with a further few years cellaring. In sum, this is a big, bold and powerful Shiraz, typically Heathcote. It should be drinking at its best 10 or so years from vintage.

2008 WHISTLING EAGLE ‘EAGLE’S BLOOD’ SHIRAZ
Producer: Whistling Eagle
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Heathcote, Victoria
ABV: 15.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $55.00
Date tasted: 5 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson verging on opaque. Concentrated dark fruited nose, woodsmoke, oak char, tar, roasted spices. Full bodied, quite elegant for its size, immensely powerful, lots of smoky oak. Quite creamy in texture. Not yielding a huge amount at this point in time. Well balanced notwithstanding the high alcohol. Needs time.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR - HERE COMES THE RAIN AGAIN

Much has been said and written of the cool and damp 2011 vintage in southern Australia, very little of it positive. Many of the nation’s wine writers were quick to write off the vintage as a disaster, often before the wines had a sufficient time to settle down and fill out in bottle.

It is fair to say that in many parts of Victoria, 2011 was not just good but excellent to outstanding for Chardonnay. The words ‘best ever’ were heard more than once. Red varieties were more of a challenge; patience, diligence and strict fruit selection being the order of the day. In the case of cool climate Pinot Noir from 2011, better examples are bright-fruited, relatively light on their feet, savoury and quite Burgundy-like (if not necessarily aspiring for greatness). It is fair to say that very few are likely to make old bones.

Bindi’s Composition Pinot Noir 2011 is in equal parts reflective of the 2011 vintage and Bindi’s status as one of the nation’s finest Pinot Noir producers. While not overly concentrated, it is well structured and has upside for further improvement in bottle over the next couple of years. All in all, it’s a good example of Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir, albeit presently lacking that je ne sais quoi that some drinkers of Pinot Noir seek out.

2011 BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR
Producer: Bindi
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2011
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 22 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Pale cherry red. Open nose of redcurrant, strawberry compote and rosehip. Dry, medium bodied, elegant and savoury, very ‘pretty’. Moderate fruit intensity. Simple and direct at this point in time, but delivers plenty of pleasure. Should improve with a further 2-3 years cellaring.
Score: 16+/20

2009 CHATEAU DES JACQUES MOULIN-A-VENT - LAYING DOWN THE LAW

Louis Jadot was one of the first of a catalogue of Burgundy producers that have invested in Beaujolais.  With holdings in Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent, Jadot is represented in two of the region’s great communes, both of which are capable of producing structured and ageworthy wines.

Much has been said and written, some positive, some negative, about the success or otherwise of Jadot’s use of Burgundian vinification (as opposed to traditional carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration) and the use of new oak in Beaujolais.

In terms of so-called ‘traditional’ cru Beaujolais (whatever that may be), Jadot’s bottlings are not necessarily typical; they possess a certain voluptuousness and sheen of oak that isn’t associated with Gamay and Beaujolais. All of this said and done, it is a style that has its appeal. The 2009 rendition of Chateau des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent displays some of the oaky capriciousness of youth, and is still marked by sturdy tannins.

There is plenty of quality here, and it is an interesting expression of Moulin-a-Vent. It will be an interesting wine to follow over the next several years, to see if it ‘goes Pinot’ as some would suggest. Whether or not one is a fan of the style, Jadot has undoubtedly added to the breadth of Beaujolais and been an instrumental part of the region’s gradual revival. On this viewing, there’s plenty to like, but it would appear that a degree of patience might be required.

2009 CHATEAU DES JACQUES MOULIN-A-VENT
Producer: Chateau des Jacques (Louis Jadot)
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 29 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Slightly closed nose. Damson, cherry and woodsmoke. Dry and savoury on the palate. Good palate weight – rich but not heavy. Oak is well integrated. Tannins make their presence felt on the finish. Needs time.
Score: 16++/20

2012 DOMAINE TOURNON 'MATHILDA' VICTORIA SHIRAZ - ACES HIGH!

Chapoutier is one of the big Rhone Valley grower/negociants making wines from generic Côtes du Rhône through outstanding long-lived ‘sélection parcellaires’ from lieux-dits on the hill of Hermitage. For some time, Michel Chapoutier has had a presence in Australia, including as a joint venture partner with Jasper Hill’s Ron Laughton and on his own at Domaine Tournon.

Not surprisingly, Chapoutier’s Australian releases have, thus far, principally focused on traditional Rhone varieties; Syrah for red, Viognier and Marsanne for white. ‘Mathilda’ Shiraz is the entry level bottling from Chapoutier’s Victorian operation under the Domaine Tournon level.

The 2012 is an excellent example of how to turn out an interesting, superbly drinkable wine at a very modest price. There’s no trickery at work from a winemaking perspective, the wine being fermented exclusively in tank, seeing no oak whatsoever. The result is a bright, slightly funky dry red wine with a very pleasant wild rusticity. There’s no spit and polish or tarting up here, just a simple, juicy and flavoursome wine that is plenty of fun to drink.

If the Domaine Tournon ‘Mathilda’ Shiraz 2012 is anything to go by, the team at Chapoutier has successfully married French expertise and food friendliness with Australian terroir and ripeness. It has to be one of the better sub-$20 red wines on the market in this country at present.

2012 DOMAINE TOURNON ‘MATHILDA’ VICTORIA SHIRAZ
Producer: Chapoutier Australia
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2012
Region: Multi-regional, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $16.00
Date tasted: 27 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Open aromatic nose, slightly wild, dusty dried herbs (sage, rosemary), fennel, black pepper, raspberry and redcurrant. Dry, medium bodied and elegant, needs a little air. Not as complex on the palate as the nose, but there’s plenty of fun to be had. Wild and slightly rustic, but in a good way. Plenty of pleasure if not that intellectually challenging.
Score: 16.5/20

1998 ROCKFORD BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ - STUCK IN THE MIDDLE

The name Rockford needs no introduction to keen followers of Australian wine. It is a Barossa Valley doyen, crafting traditionally styled wines, sourced across the valley floor. Rockford Basket Press Shiraz is a wine held in great affection in the Australian wine community.

1998 was generally regarded as an outstanding vintage for red wines in South Australia’s key wine producing regions, producing wines with excellent fruit intensity and ripe, structured tannins, thus ensuring a long cellaring life. Sixteen years on from vintage, Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 1998 remains a work in progress. The tannins have well and truly melted, but primary fruit is still very much to the fore.

At this point in time, the wine offers moderate complexity and is frankly less compelling than the 1997 vintage of the same wine (the last bottle of which was consumed several months ago). Such is the quality of the raw materials here, there is little doubt that it will deliver greater interest with further cellaring, perhaps another 4-5 years or so.

1998 ROCKFORD BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 1998
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Concentrated bouquet of plums and cherries soaked in liqueur, liquorice and tar. Opens up with air to reveal oak vanillin and fig. Full bodied and elegant, most definitely not over the top. The palate flows on from the nose. Tannins are fully resolved, but primary fruit is still very much to the fore. Good length. Very elegant given its warm climate origin, but lacking a touch for complexity at this point in time. Upside for further development over the next 5+ years.
Score: 17+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART THREE - DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT

Even by the standards of Alsace, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht has a large portfolio, with around 35-40 wines traversing the region’s noble varietals (and one or two that aren’t!), vineyards and residual sweetness levels.

The estate is based in the village of Turckheim roughly 15 kilometres north of Colmar. The estate style, if one was to typify it, favours boldly flavoured, powerful wines that need at least medium term cellaring to reveal their full potential. To some extent, the wines tend to be marked by power more than finesse, but this is a small criticism.

In this particular imbiber’s opinion, the wines of Zind-Humbrecht are in marked contrast to those of Trimbach, which tend toward austerity and a steely line of acidity when young. Some might find the generosity (and occasional high alcohol levels one encounters) of certain Zind-Humbrecht wines to be a touch excessive. But it is very much a matter of personal taste. Of the wines tasted on this visit, Gewurztraminer Hengst at 15% ABV was one of the real stars; powerful and rich, but balanced, stylish and complex.

2012 MUSCAT GOLDERT GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Muscat
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Located in the village of Guebschwir.
Densely textured. Typical ‘grapey’ Muscat character. Dry, quite rich, slightly oily. Long finish.
Score: 17/20

2012 ZIND
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Chardonnay (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Auxerrois)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Aged in new foudres. Use of Chardonnay, only allowed in Cremant d’Alsace, means that it has to be labelled as a Vin de Table.
Lifted nose of lime and grapefruit, touch of oak spice. Citrussy acidity up-front, stone-fruit on the mid—palate. Somewhat of an oddity in the realm of aromatic Alsatian wines.
Score: 15.5/20

2012 RIESLING HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Fruit grown on the plains of Turckheim.
Direct and straightforward on both the palate and nose. Seems a touch dilute. Key lime pie?
Score: 15/20

2012 RIESLING 'CLOS HAUSERER'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vines planted in 1973 and 1974.
Slightly closed. Delicate citrus aromatics, stonefruit. Quite textured on the palate. Structured. Not yielding much at present but shows promise.
Score: 16+/20

2011 RIESLING 'CLOS WINDSBUHL'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
2012 vintage is still fermenting! Grown on pure limestone at 250m elevation.
Direct nose of stonefruit and spice. Lovely underbelly of fine acidity. Showing the benefit of bottle age and starting to fill out. Very good.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Zind-Humbrecht owns seven parcels in Brand. Pink granite soils.
Delicate. Starting to come together. Zesty lemon/lime sherbet. Concentrated. Alive!! Real structure for ageing.
Score: 17/20

2012 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
11g/l residual sugar – slightly sweeter than the 2011.
Soft acid line. Open and forward. Not as compelling as the 2011.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Southern-most Grand Cru in Alsace. Volcanic soil. 350m-400m elevation.
Slightly baked character. Rich, flinty and smoky. Some real interest.
Score: 17/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Delicate. Medium sweet. Typical apple and pear fruit profile. Slightly pinched on the finish, A touch simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Elegant and delicate. Apple, pear and spice. Dry. Nice balancing acidity. Young and structured – needs time.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Freshly buttered toast. Lime/lemon, red apples and spice. More open than the 2012. Good.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS RANGE DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Open and inviting nose of baked apple pie. Medium sweet. Roundly textured. Sweet but balanced. Yum!
Score: 17/20


2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Prototypical Gewürztraminer nose – lifted, musky and floral. Dry, round and creamy – very much a food style. Desperately needs appropriate food; onion tart perhaps?!
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER CALCAIRE
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Two parcels of younger vines, mostly from Hengst.
Coiled. Quite subtle. NOT in your face Gewürz. Off-dry, yellow plum, baked pear/apple.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HENGST GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Hengst is a late ripening site.
Dense and concentrated. Touch of Earl Grey tea. Funky and earthy. Real interest on display here. Medium sweet, quite spicy. Opulent but far from over the top. Well balanced.
Score: 17.5+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Concentrated, open and intense. Not as complex, but more restrained and elegant than the Hengst. Compact and stylish.
Score: 17/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CLOS JEBSAL SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES ‘TRIE SPECIALE’
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 6.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
More than 200g/l residual sugar. From the lower part of the Brand Grand Cru.
Golden yellow. Very intense and powerful. Rich baked fruit, raisins. Butterscotch and honey. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART TWO - DOMAINE WEINBACH

Domaine Weinbach, owned by the Faller family, is one of the great names in Alsace. Situated at the entry to the village of Kaysersberg with the imposing walled Clos des Capucins, the estate draws on fruit from the clos, as well as the nearby Grand Crus of Schlossberg, Furstentum and Mambourg, all of which are farmed biodynamically.

The domaine was recently rocked by the untimely and premature passing of Catherine Faller, one of two sisters who had for many years taken responsibility for day-to-day operations. As one of the world’s great female winemakers, her loss has been felt across the wine world.

As is the case with many Alsatian domaines, the range here is extensive, encompassing a wide range of varietals, sites and ripeness/sugar levels. On evidence of wines tasted at the domaine, and other wines enjoyed while in the region, quality is high across the board.

For this particular imbiber, the real stars of the show is the sweeter wines (the 2012 Gewürtztraminer Mambourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives and the 2010 Pinot Gris Cuvée d’Or Quintessence de Grain Nobles are both stunning wines). They combine a rich lusciousness with remarkable complexity and incredible finesse.

Gewürtztraminer has long been regarded a forté of Domaine Weinbach, reinforced the wines tasted at this visit. In the hands of Weinbach, Gewürtztraminer transcends the stereotype of rose petal and lychee, with stonefruit and baked apple also thrown into the mix – a variety that can be enjoyable, but rather tiring is transformed into a multi-faceted and compelling one at this address.

In sum, the wines of Domaine Weinbach serve to justify its lofty position in France’s wine consciousness. There is a clarity and sense of elegance that runs throughout the wines.

2012 PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
No new oak. Domaine Weinbach also make another Pinot Noir, Cuvée W, that sees partial maturation in new wood.
Bright cherry red. Light and fresh. Crème de mure, marzipan, cherry and rhubarb. Dry, ripe supple tannins, sour cherry. No lack of acidity. Good length.
Score: 16/20

2012 ‘CUVÉE THEO’ RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Weinbach

Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 1 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow in appearance. Open and aromatic nose of orange zest, stonefruit and crystallised ginger. Dry, medium bodied, zesty and fresh. Attractive blend of stonefruit and citrus with tangy acidity carrying the finish.
Score: 17/20

2013 RIESLING ‘CUVÉE THEO’
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Draws on 35 year old vines from the Clos des Capucins. Recently bottled.
Open and aromatic nose of grapefruit, peach, apple and pear. Direct and straightforward palate of crab apple/green apple and lemon citrus. Will benefit from more time in bottle.
Score: 16+/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
From the upper part of the Schlossberg Grand Cru vineyard. Not yet bottled.
Aromatic, slightly floral nose, white peach. Mineral. Delicate and elegant, green apple, peach, floral notes. Bright tingle of acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5++/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG CUVÉE STE. CATHERINE GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Tight and mineral. Floral – apple blossom, pear. Dry, medium bodied; pear, apple and white peach. Good length.
Score: 17+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RÉSERVE CLOS DES CAPUCINS
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Driest and lightest Gewürztraminer made at Domaine Weinbach.
Typical Gewürztraminer nose and palate. Quite light and easy. Not too phenolic. Good length and overall balance.
Score: 16.5/20 

2009 GEWÜRZRTRAMINER ALTENBOURG
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 4 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Lifted floral bouquet of rose petal and talc. Off-dry, excellent fruit intensity, stonefruit (yellow peach, nectarine), caramelised pineapple, touch of spice on the finish. Relatively low acidity. Good!
Score: 17/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Baked apple pie and streudel straight out of the oven. Slightly exotic edge – lychee. Medium sweet. Good fruit intensity. Lacking slightly on the mid-palate.
Score: 16/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER MAMBOURG GRAND CRU VENDANGES TARDIVES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Grown on clay/limestone soil, which lends the wine a velvet texture.
Gently aromatic nose – not too extrovert. Sweet but delicate. Lychee, rhubarb, white peach, Mirabelle, spice. Doesn’t cloy. Finishes very long! Outstanding.
Score: 18.5/20

2006 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Enormous concentration. Intense and exotic – apple, apricot, yellow plum and lychee. Sweet, elegant and fine.
Score: 18/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CUVÉE D’OR QUINTESSENCE DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 10.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Made from fruit grown below the Furstentum Grand Cru.
Intense and driven - apple crumble. Sweet, enormously concentrated, lovely sherbet-tang balances the sweetness and richness. Stylish and elegant. Exceptional.
Score: 19/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART ONE - DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS

Marcel Deiss is a 27 hectare domaine situated in the village of Bergheim, roughly 25 kilometres north of Colmar. In a region where single varietal wines dominate, Deiss has adopted an approach that emphasises on terroir expression, regardless of cepage. As such, it produces field blends, some of which use all 13 of the permitted Alsace grape varieties, white and red.

Interestingly, co-planted varieties flower at the same time. They are also picked at the same time and co-fermented. Deiss argues that co-fermentation provides for better integration. The estate’s entry level wines includes three mono-cepage wines; a Riesling, Pinot Gris and a Gewurztraminer. Thereafter, it is vineyard name that takes centre stage.

Domaine Marcel Deiss is 100% biodynamic and is moving toward ‘model forestière’, which embodies the concept of ‘nature in harmony’. Trees have been planted both around and inside vineyards. The result thus far has been improved flowering.

The estate's holdings are focused around the village of Bergheim, including the Altenberg Grand Cru, save for Manbourg near Colmar and Schoenbourg in Riquewihr.

The wines of Marcel Deiss are not only among the best made in Alsace, but the best white wines made anywhere. Across the entire range, they manage a wonderful balance of powerful, intense fruit, vibrant acidity, elegance and complexity.

2012 ALSACE
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of all 13 permitted Alsatian varieties.
Bright aromatic nose of lychee and apple blossom. Very fresh and vibrant. Medium bodied, touch phenolic. Good fruit intensity. Spice carries the finish which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014
Tasting Note:
Sourced from fruit grown in Bergheim and the nearby village of St Hippolyte.
Delicate and steely citrus-laden nose. Elegant, refined and pretty. Very pure and driven. Lemon citrus, pear and apple on the palate. Delicious.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Off-dry, round and elegant. Very well balanced. A style that really works. Fine and long. Not oily or alcoholic.
Score: 16/20

2011 BERCKEM
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly with all other 12 Alsace varieties in the mix. All of the fruit comes from the village of Bergheim (Berckem is the old name for Bergheim). 15g/l residual sugar.
Attractive aromatic nose – definitely some Gewurztraminer or Muscat here. Touch of sweetness up-front, medium bodied, refined and elegant. Real style and verve on display here. Lovely melange of spice and exotic fruit. Delicious!
Score: 17/20

2008 BURLENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir with a contribution from all of the white Pinot varieties. 60% whole bunches. Fruit is sourced from a Premier Cru site which is at 280m elevation.
Mid-cherry red. Alluring nose of rhubarb and black cherry, distinctive note of black pepper. Real intensity and depth, brooding yet subtle. Definitely Pinot Noir of real quality, but not Burgundy. Stylish and suave. Un 'vin de sommelier'!.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 LANGENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Pinot Noir and Muscat from vines grown on granite soils in St Hippolyte.
Delicate nose of apple, floral notes, phenolic. Round, compact and elegant. Real drive and cut through the mid-palate. Round and with plenty of depth, yet elegant at the same time.
Score: 17/20

2011 ENGELGARTEN
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vineyard is located immediately behind the Deiss cellar in Bergheim. Blend of Riesling, the Pinots and Muscat.
Bold and flamboyant. A veritable apple tarte tatin of a wine. Rich and voluminous. Lots to enjoy.
Score: 17/20

2010 ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
South facing site located next to Engelgarten. Limestone soils. Two-way blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris. 25g/l residual sugar.
Real lift, concentration and depth. Citrus and baked apple. Plenty of zing on the finish. Starts sweet, but finishes very fresh and dry. Delicious.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 SCHOFFWEG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling and various Pinots grown on soft calcareous sub-soil. Vineyard is located to the east of the Altenberg Grand Cru site.
Open nose of crème patissiere and key lime pie! Dry and mineral, touch austere, needs time! Structured and slightly backward. Touch of tannin. Nose is more open than the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 GRASBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
North facing site at 350m elevation. Blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.
Aromatic and complex. Tightly coiled. Real depth and style. Steely acidity carries the finish.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GRUENSPIEL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep heavy clay soils. One third each of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. A long ageing wine that is typically austere and tight when young.
Brooding and voluminous. Lots of spice. Mineral rather than fruit. Not yielding a great deal at present. Wide and expansive – full bodied. Tastes like there could be Pinot Blanc in the mix?!? A big wine that needs time.
Score: 17??/20

2009 BURG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Small river runs through the vineyard, encouraging botrytis.
Off-dry. Citrus, dried apricot, peach and cumquat. Long line of fine acidity carries the finish. Quite brilliant!
Score: 18.5/20

2008 HUEBUHL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces high levels of botrytis early in the season. Blend of the Pinots and Muscat.
Bright golden yellow. Vibrant nose of quince, spiced apples and honeycomb. Medium sweet. Real fireworks in the mouth – a veritable explosion of flavour. Very complete and together. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

2011 MANBOURG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces wines with typically soft tannins. A regular source for sweet wines, but being windy botrytis rarely occurs.
Lime, pear, spice and crushed minerals. Elegant, medium bodied, very delicate and fine. Vibrant acidity. Delicate and pretty. Needs time.
Score: 18/20

2009 ALTENBERG DE BERGHEIM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Botrytis occurs late in the season every year. Picked 5 weeks later than Manbourg. Blend of all 13 permitted varieties. 70g/l residual sugar.
Very pretty, aromatic and perfumed. Medium sweet, delicate and fine. Quite backward – not as expressive as the 1er Crus at this point in its evolution. Will literally flower with bottle age.
Score: 18.5/20

2009 SCHOENBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Aromatic White blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Site is located in Riquewihr. Sourse of some of the longest ageing wines in Alsace. Clay/gypsum soil high in sulphur. Susceptible to botrytis. Blend of Riesling and 20% of the other 12 Alsace varieties.
Pretty, elegant and fine – featherweight in texture. Real depth, concentration and intensity, yet remarkably delicate and elegant. A truly outstanding white wine.
Score: 19.5/20