CORNELISSEN ROSSO DEL CONTADINO 8 - MY WAY

Much has been said and written of the wines of Frank Cornelissen, leading vanguard of the natural wine movement. From fruit grown on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna Cornelissen fashions wines that have a singular identity. To the uninitiated Cornelissen’s wine can be somewhat of a shock. Cloudy with large chunks of sediment floating in suspension, they are not wines for the aesthete.

Contadino 8, a multi-vintage blend based on Nerello Mascalese (though cepage is only relevant in as much as the building blocks of the wine are old vine fruit from the slopes of Etna. From a purely technical perspective, it is a wine riddled with faults; volatile acidity and undissolved CO2 to name but two. However, such ‘faults’ are irrelevant in the context of a Cornellisen wine. He seeks to express nature through wine, rather than impose man’s imprint on the wine.

Without a doubt, Cornelissen’s wines are ‘out there’ and not for all tastes. For this imbiber, they are best explored once in a while, and in modest quantities. Contadino 8 is not an ‘easy’ wine on any level, it is a wine that challenges the drinker.

Natural wines have been criticised in some parts for being more about style than substance. While wines such as Cornelissen’s might not be to all tastes (and I, for one, am not totally convinced) they serve an important role on challenging convention and presenting an alternative to popular practice. For that alone, anyone who has an interest in wine should be grateful

ROSSO DEL CONTADINO 8
Producer: Az. Agric. Frank Cornelissen
Variety: Nerello Mascalese blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Synthetic cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 13 April 2013

Tasting Note:
Cherry lipstick red, cloudy with significant deposits. Slightly pinched nose at first, quite volatile and acetic, floral notes (cherry blossom perhaps?), rhubarb, rosehip, loam. Dry, distinctive CO2 prickle that dissipates with air (needs decanting), sour cherry, pomegranate and cranberry, earthy notes, vinegary acidity. Good length. Desperately needs air and food.
Score: ?