2011 'DEAD WINEMAKERS SOCIETY' DOLCETTO - THE REAL THING

-->Italian varietals have been grown with varying degrees of success in Australia. Too many efforts either lack varietal definition, genuine depth of flavour or just come across as fruit sweet derivatives of the real thing, lacking the dry, savoury, food pairing friendliness of fine Italian wine. However, there are wines that excel, a few of which (Whistling Eagle Sangiovese and Calabria Aglianico to name but two) are excellent representations.

The 2011 ‘Dead Winemakers Society Dolcetto from Alpha, Box & Dice is another to add to the list. Tasted blind, the wine simply screamed Dolcetto; from its transparent cherry red hue, to the bouquet and dry, savoury palate, which are all about sour cherry, it could only be Dolcetto. It is by no means the most complex wine, and it certainly won’t change lives. However, it is a remarkably good rendition of the variety, so good that it seems like a wine that originates from the fog hugged hills of north-west Italy, not the Adelaide Hills.

While one could complain that the wine could cost a fiver less, there is real integrity here, so much so that some palates accustomed to sweet fruited wines might just struggle with its dryness, that is, until they enjoy it alongside appropriate food.

2011 ‘DEAD WINEMAKERS’ SOCIETY’ DOLCETTO
Producer: Alpha, Box & Dice
Variety: Dolcetto
Vintage: 2011
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $31.00
Date tasted: 6 April 2013

Tasting Note:
Transparent cherry red. Direct nose of sour cherry, leather and fig. Very dry and savoury, sour cherry flows through to the palate, which is medium bodied and supple. No lack of acidity. Although the wine is quite direct and simple, it is clearly well made; good food style.
Score: 15.5/20