23 April 2013

2010 CALABRIA AGLIANICO - BARGAIN!

With the odd notable exception (in the form of de Bortoli’s Noble One Botrytis Semillon) the warm inland Riverina region has tended to be the source for mass market, high volume wines made to a price point. Such wines are generally enjoyed within 18-24 months of vintage and are not intended to be considered as ‘serious’ examples of their variety.

However, to every rule, there are exceptions. One such exception is the Calabria Aglianico from Westend Estate. The 2009 vintage of this wine was reviewed positively a few weeks ago on these pages. So positive was the response from this imbiber that it prompted a case purchased. The case having arrived, there was little excuse to try the 2010.

Initial impressions of the wine were of pleasant sweet plum/cherry fruit, but not a great deal else. That is not to sell the wine short, as it was tight, and locked up by firm, assertive tannins. Tasted a day later, the tannins had softened appreciably to reveal a very attractive wine, a wine that combines an attractive balance of sweet (but not confected) up front fruit, savoury mid-palate, with spice and volatility adding complexity. Although it carries a modest price tag of $15 per bottle, this is an ambitious wine, one that merits a slumber for a year or two, perhaps longer, so that it can be appreciated at its best.  With time, the 2010 should prove to be better than the excellent 2009 vintage of the same wine.

Producer: Westend Estate
Variety: Aglianico
Vintage: 2010
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $15.00
Date tasted: 8 April 2013

Tasting Note:
Mid plum red fading to the rim. Bright nose of plum, leather, fig and roasted spices. Dry, medium+ bodied, sweet plum/cherry fruit up-front quickly moving to savoury before assertive grippy tannins kick in. This is a wine that needs air or preferably time in bottle. Showed better the following night by which time the tannins had softened to reveal a silky palate, a touch of volatility adding pleasant complexity. A dead set bargain at the price, but this is a wine that needs another year or two in bottle before being broached.
Score: 17/20

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