2012 DOMAINE LUCCI CHARDONNAY - IT'S ONLY NATURAL

Much has been said and written of the ‘natural wine’ movement in the last several years. To some, natural wines are an aberration; über-trendy, of the moment, slightly pretentious perhaps and not fine wine. While it may be true to say that, to some extent, natural wines are the hipsters of the wine world, the ethos behind natural wines is more hippy than hip. However one may choose to categorise natural wine, there can be little argument that the very best wines from natural wine practitioners are indeed very good.

Adelaide Hills-based Anton von Klopper is perhaps the highest profile producer of natural wines in Australia. Under the Lucy Margaux and Domaine Lucci labels, he makes wines that adhere closely to the premise of minimal intervention, both in the vineyard and in the winery. Yet, as the 2012 Domaine Lucci Chardonnay (a modestly priced wine) shows, the wine doesn’t taste odd. Wild yeast fermentation and bottling without fining and filtration have produced a relatively clear, pure and fresh example of Chardonnay, one that would appeal to those schooled on more conventional fare.

Where it differs from your average modestly priced Chardonnay is in its pulpy texture, weighty mouthfeel and pear/apple orchard essence of Adelaide Hills Chardonnay character. One genuinely feels that one is tasting the fruit from a particular place, not just any Chardonnay trying to be something it really isn’t.

2012 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Domaine Lucci
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2012
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 12.6%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $24.00
Date tasted: 6 April 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Surprisingly clean and fresh nose – no oxidative characters whatsoever; pear and apple pulp. Dry, quite weighty on the palate, good presence, pulpy and pure, apple/pear orchard. Full and round rather than crisp. Although quite straightforward and simple, there’s plenty to enjoy hear, not least the wine’s structure, purity and integrity.
Score: 16/20