In a region with many great producers, the name Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one that has been discussed at great length in the past 5 or so years. For followers of high quality Burgundy, it is fair to say that Colin-Morey’s star has well and truly risen. His white Burgundies, which range up to Grand Cru level, are rated among the region’s best. Thankfully, unlike the likes of Coche-Dury (to be fair, Colin-Morey isn't in just esteemed company as yet) and Domaine Leflaive, Colin-Morey’s wines remain within the reach of the ordinary wine drinker, and there is reasonable availability, particularly at lower levels of the appellation ladder.
As with any producer, the real test is consistency across the range and how the more ‘basic’ wines perform. In this case, basic is very much a relative term. Anyone acquainted with Burgundy would know that St Aubin is a treasure trove when it comes to value for white Burgundy. Although just a modest village wine by appellation, the 2011 St Aubin ‘Le Banc’ possesses the structure, detail and interest one would expect of a Premier Cru. In keeping with the house style, there’s plenty of tension here. It is not an underworked wine, nor is there any sense of excess.
While there is plenty to enjoy now, there is sufficient evidence to suggest that this wine should be capable of improving in bottle for several years. Moreover, the relatively high sulphur regime and use of wax over the (cork) give one a degree of confidence that premature oxidation shouldn’t be a problem with this producer.
2011 ST AUBIN BLANC ‘LE BANC’
Producer: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $55.00
Date tasted: 21 April 2013
Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Slightly smoky nose, grapefruit, honeydew melon, subtle oak (clove, nutmeg). Dry, medium bodied, lovely texture, a wine that is all about ‘line and length’, melon and grapefruit citrus are set against gentle spicy oak, underscored by chalky minerality. Well balanced acidity. Just moderate complexity at present, but there is definite upside here.
Score: 17+/20
As with any producer, the real test is consistency across the range and how the more ‘basic’ wines perform. In this case, basic is very much a relative term. Anyone acquainted with Burgundy would know that St Aubin is a treasure trove when it comes to value for white Burgundy. Although just a modest village wine by appellation, the 2011 St Aubin ‘Le Banc’ possesses the structure, detail and interest one would expect of a Premier Cru. In keeping with the house style, there’s plenty of tension here. It is not an underworked wine, nor is there any sense of excess.
While there is plenty to enjoy now, there is sufficient evidence to suggest that this wine should be capable of improving in bottle for several years. Moreover, the relatively high sulphur regime and use of wax over the (cork) give one a degree of confidence that premature oxidation shouldn’t be a problem with this producer.
Producer: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $55.00
Date tasted: 21 April 2013
Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Slightly smoky nose, grapefruit, honeydew melon, subtle oak (clove, nutmeg). Dry, medium bodied, lovely texture, a wine that is all about ‘line and length’, melon and grapefruit citrus are set against gentle spicy oak, underscored by chalky minerality. Well balanced acidity. Just moderate complexity at present, but there is definite upside here.
Score: 17+/20
No comments:
Post a Comment