17 March 2014

2002 LEO BURING EDEN VALLEY RIESLING - FRESH AS A DAISY


At the turn of the millennium, many Australian Riesling producers moved from sealing their wines under cork to screw cap. Anyone who has cellared Australian Riesling (and for that matter Semillon, Chardonnay, Marsanne et al) from the 1990’s for more than 5 or so years would know of the frustration of uneven maturation under cork; some bottles flat and oxidised before their time is due, others pristine and fresh.

2002 was one of the first truly excellent Riesling vintages that followed the wide uptake of screw cap. On evidence of this bottle, the change was well and truly vindicated. On the flipside, lovers of Riesling, specifically mature Riesling, will need to be more patient than ever.

This particular bottle, reviewed previously on these pages (2002 Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling) is clean as a whistle, mid-development and with many years on the clock. It is open aromatically and has fleshed out on the palate, but there are no signs of it nearing full maturity. Purchased at just under $15 per bottle on release, it is a dead set bargain and a vindication of the use of screw cap closures for aromatic whites such as Riesling.

2002 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Leo Buring
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2002
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 March 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow with golden glints. Open aromatic nose of kaffir lime leaf, lime/lemon zest, bath salts. Dry, medium bodied, has really filled out on the palate, but there’s a lovely undertow of fine acidity. Right in the slot, but far from fully mature. Excellent length. Should have another decade up its sleeve.
Score: 17/20

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