When it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, many follow the well worn commercial path. Geelong’s Bannockburn does anything but follow the flock. In truth, it is Sauvignon Blanc in name only. It is a blend, predominantly of Sauvignon Blanc, together with Riesling and/or Chardonnay. In the warm 2013 vintage, winemaker Michael Glover opted not to use any Chardonnay, just a touch of Riesling to lend aromatic lift and acidity.
What makes this wine so very different from the ocean of Antipodean Sauvignon Blanc is not only its rather unconventional blending partners, but also the fact that it is barrel fermented in a combination of new and seasoned French oak and Italian acacia. The influence of wood on the final wine is profound, lending texture, spice and oxygenation.
Bannockburn’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc is a bold and full flavoured wine that pulls no punches. It shows quite a bit of sulphur on the nose at present, and a generous decant is recommended. By Australian standards, it’s not a conventional wine, indeed, it pushes the envelope. However, we shouldn’t be surprised as the reference point for this wine is not Marlborough nor the Loire Valley, but Friuli in Italy’s north-east, the source of some of the planets most innovative and complex white wines.
This is a wine that will have its supporters and detractors in equal number. For that we should be glad, as the very least wine should do is provoke a reaction, positive or negative. This particular imbiber looks forward to the day when Bannockburn no longer have to label the wine Sauvignon Blanc, enabling them to blend the wine as they like, regardless of the 15% rule.
2013 SAUVIGNON BLANC
Producer: Bannockburn
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc (94%), Riesling (6%)
Vintage: 2013
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 10 March 2013
Tasting Note:
Double decanted before serving. Bright golden yellow. Initially slightly reductive, but blows off with air. Bold nose of grilled nuts, nutmeg, clove, grapefruit, pear and yellow plum, freshly chopped green herbs. Dry, full bodied, rich and plush. Plenty of flavour – not a ‘wimps’ wine. Lots on show here, though not one for those seeking subtlety!
Score: 17/20
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