Australian Chardonnay has come a long way in past 10-15 years. From the days of so-called Dolly Parton wines to steely and flinty cool climate Chardonnay, contemporary Australian Chardonnay is barely recognisable from the often overworked caricatures of the 1990’s.
While some producers have taken things too far, mistaking leanness for steeliness, the quantum change in style has by and large been extremely positive. It is fair to say that, dollar for dollar, Australia produces the best premium Chardonnay in the world. Yes, the very best white Burgundy remains the benchmark, but it is expensive and has a poor track record of premature oxidation.
Adelaide Hills stalwart Ashton Hills has for many years been the source of Chardonnay of genuine class and distinction. The 2009 release (which this imbiber understands was the penultimate Ashton Hills Chardonnay, the vines having been grafted over to Pinot Noir) is up to the very high standards of this tiny estate.
By contemporary standards, it is a generous Chardonnay, displaying the traits of high quality Chardonnay – ripe, pristine fruit, high class oak and sensitive winemaking. It is an extremely well balanced wine and certainly doesn’t lack for complexity. Previous vintages suggest that it should develop gracefully in bottle for at least a decade.
2009 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Ashton Hills
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 2 March 2013
Tasting Note:
Bright silvery lemon with golden glints. Open and inviting nose of honeydew melon, pear and cashew, nutty oak, nutmeg and clove. Complex and attractive. Dry, medium bodied, outstanding depth and volume, intense and powerful. Long finish with all elements in balance. Who needs white Burgundy?!
Score: 18/20
While some producers have taken things too far, mistaking leanness for steeliness, the quantum change in style has by and large been extremely positive. It is fair to say that, dollar for dollar, Australia produces the best premium Chardonnay in the world. Yes, the very best white Burgundy remains the benchmark, but it is expensive and has a poor track record of premature oxidation.
Adelaide Hills stalwart Ashton Hills has for many years been the source of Chardonnay of genuine class and distinction. The 2009 release (which this imbiber understands was the penultimate Ashton Hills Chardonnay, the vines having been grafted over to Pinot Noir) is up to the very high standards of this tiny estate.
By contemporary standards, it is a generous Chardonnay, displaying the traits of high quality Chardonnay – ripe, pristine fruit, high class oak and sensitive winemaking. It is an extremely well balanced wine and certainly doesn’t lack for complexity. Previous vintages suggest that it should develop gracefully in bottle for at least a decade.
2009 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Ashton Hills
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 2 March 2013
Tasting Note:
Bright silvery lemon with golden glints. Open and inviting nose of honeydew melon, pear and cashew, nutty oak, nutmeg and clove. Complex and attractive. Dry, medium bodied, outstanding depth and volume, intense and powerful. Long finish with all elements in balance. Who needs white Burgundy?!
Score: 18/20
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