15 May 2014

2003 CLONAKILLA SHIRAZ VIOGNIER - SOME LIKE IT HOT....


Clonakilla is one of Australia’s most feted cool climate producers, feted for its Côte Rotie styled Shiraz Viognier. 2003 was a drought year in Murrumbateman and it reflects in the Shiraz Viognier from that vintage. At this point of its development, the wine isn’t revealing a great deal. The bouquet is rather subdued, and lacking the lifted aromatics one tends to associate with the style. Similarly, the palate is rather four-square and direct, belying the this label’s fine pedigree.

Tasting through a bottle of 2003 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, one wonders if it is more 2003 than Clonakilla. Extended airing brings out a touch of complexity, but it also exaggerates tannins on the finish. It may well be the case that this particular bottle was enjoyed at less than ideal point in the wine’s evolution, and further bottle age is all that is needed. One’s main concern is that the tannins on the finish (perhaps the mark of a drought year) fail to resolve.

2003 CLONAKILLA SHIRAZ VIOGNIER
Producer: Clonakilla
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2002
Region: Canberra District, New South Wales
ABV: 14%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson in appearance. Slightly subdued bouquet initially, but opens up to reveal red berry compote, liquorice and just a touch of black pepper. Soft and plush up-front, raspberry and dark berry fruit, camphor and charcoal. Tannins become more prominent on the finish with extended airing. Relatively straightforward at present, and lacks the finesse one associates with this label. May improve with further ageing.
Score: 15.5?/20

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