A good number of producers have dramatically reduced the use of malolactic fermentation, resulting in wines that have a more noticeable acidic spine and greater freshness. In some quarters, ‘no MLF’ is held out as a badge of quality, a hallmark that the wine is a correct and proper ‘new wave’ Australian Chardonnay, not a buttery monster of times past.
In this context, biodynamic producer Sorrenberg’s Chardonnay may, at first glance, appear to be a bit old fashioned. The 2010 vintage underwent 100% malolactic fermentation. On both the nose and the palate, the wine reflects winemaker-induced complexity in the form of barrel fermentation, lees stirring and yes, malolcatic fermentation. Yet unlike some of the buttery monsters of old, it retains a sense of freshness and balance and is certainly not overly rich or creamy.
While we talk a lot about winemaking influence when it comes to Chardonnay, perhaps we also need to think a bit about site. Take a look at some of Australia’s best Chardonnays; Giaconda and Main Ridge to name but two. No-one would described these as lightweights or ‘under-worked’, yet they are brilliantly poised and finely honed. Notably, the respective vineyards from which both wines are sourced are located at elevation (as is Sorrenberg) in relatively cool regions (Beechworth and the Mornington Peninsula), ensuring that natural acidity is preserved over an extended ripening period, as well as enhancing aromatics.
There’s a lot to like about modern Australian Chardonnay but we shouldn’t favour austerity over texture and depth of flavour, nor should we ignore the fact that site is the paramount factor in determining wine quality. The tools that are employed in the winery can only aim to provide for the best possible expression of a particular site. With that in mind, I would like to raise a glass to the team at Sorrenberg for a quite delicious (Beechworth) Chardonnay.
Producer: Sorrenberg
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 22 December 2012
Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow with a greenish tinge. Bold nose of honeydew melon, white peach, lemon zest and vanilla. Medium bodied, dry, full flavoured, greengage/honeydew, tingle of lemony acidity. Finishes long with well integrated creamy/spicy oak. Although the wine has undergone 100% malolactic fermentation, it maintains a genuine sense of balance, freshness and proportion. Still young and should develop well.
Score: 17.5/20
2 comments:
"..we shouldn’t favour austerity over texture and depth of flavour, nor should we ignore the fact that site is the paramount factor in determining wine quality. The tools that are employed in the winery can only aim to provide for the best possible expression of a particular site." Here, here.
I purchase chardonnay infrequently and seem to get satisfaction only from good bottles at the more costly end of the spectrum. The grape is open to all manner of winemaker manipulation but often this variety comes across as good or decent rather than wonderful. Matching site and vintage expression with technique rather than trend seems the obvious answer, but oddly it doesn't manifest too often in the sub $25 range. Considering how widely chardonnay is planted it's a bit disappointing.
Cheers
Matthew
I think there's plenty to like about Australian Chardonnay at the moment.....there's some really exciting wines out there; but I am concerned when I hear, in some quarters, references to Chablis (we do not have terroirs like Chablis and shouldn't be trying to make Chablis in Australia) and 'no malo' being boasted as a positive or mark of quality. Simply put, we should seek to produce the styles of Chardonnay that best express their place of origin. Yes, there will be an inevitable nod toward Burgundy, but we must have the confidence to chart our own path.
It is true that one does need to spend over $25 to find truly interesting examples of Chardonnay, but there are rich pickings between $30-$50 a bottle.
The Penguin
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