It is fair to say that Australia makes a pretty good fist of Semillon as a dry table wine. The best examples from the Hunter Valley are light in alcohol and capable of aging for a couple of decades. Margaret River also produces the odd gem, not the least the delicious Moss Wood Semillon, more than a match for the its Chardonnay.
When it comes to the Barossa Valley, there are a few wineries that fly the flag for unoaked Semillon, including Rockford and Peter Lehmann. As is the case with Hunter Valley Semillon, this example from Cirillo is picked early to preserve the grape’s natural acidity. Fermented fully dry, it weighs in at a ballerina light 10% alcohol by volume.
At this early stage of its evolution, the wine is slightly austere and a touch one dimensional, though there is promise for the future. While some may advocate matching a young wine of this nature with freshly shucked oysters, this scribe recommends taking the patient option and stashing a few bottles away for several years. Patience will be rewarded with a wine that is delicate but round with a touch of honeyed maturity.
Producer: Cirillo
Variety: Semillon
Vintage: 2010
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 10%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 30 December 2012
Tasting Note:
Very pale silvery lemon. Delicate nose, grapefruit pith, lemongrass and pear. Dry and savoury, slightly austere, not as delicate as a young Hunter Valley Semillon. Crab apple and white grapefruit. Finishes with brisk acidity. Needs time to unfurl and flesh out.
Score: 16/20
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