2004 TEUSNER AVATAR - TOO HOT TO HANDLE

Grenache-based blends from the Barossa Valley have come a long way in the past 20 years. Originally used largely for fortified Port-style wines, Grenache finally came into fashion as a table wine in the 1990’s thanks to the likes of Charles Melton’s Rhone-inspired Nine Popes. These days, there are many good examples of Barossa Valley Grenache and blends thereof, wines that are rich and ripe, but savoury and sophisticated.

Teusner is one producer that has done excellent things with Grenache and the other Southern Rhone blending varieties, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Teusner Joshua is a GSM blend that showcases Barossa Valley terroir exceptionally well. Although the wine drinks well on release, it develops interesting meaty, gamey and savoury notes with bottle age. The wine is far from the confected examples of Grenache from years past.

It was with some interest that a bottle of Teusner Avatar 2004 was broached recently. Avatar sits above Joshua in the Teusner pricing hierarchy. According to some sources, this particular vintage should have been drunk up in the past few years. However, in this taster’s experience, many critics underestimate the drinking window for Barossa Valley Grenache-blends. A 1998 Rockford Moppa Springs and 2001 Tin Shed Three Vines bears witness to how well these wines can age, and the aromatic interest they can develop with bottle age.

Back to the Teusner Avatar. This particular bottle poured bright ruby in colour. In terms of texture, the wine was medium bodied elegant and plush, almost Pinot Noir-like in its elegance. The fruit profile definitely places it as a warm climate Rhône-blend; strawberry, raspberry and kirsch, with a touch of spice lending complexity. All good so far, but the finish carries a big alcoholic punch, not a gentle touch of warming alcohol, but a none too subtle whack across the chops. As it stands, this particular wine is rather disjointed. However, to be fair, a warm summer’s day may not be the fairest environment in which to judge the wine. One shall await the next bottle open-minded and with interest.

2004 AVATAR
Producer: Teusner
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 5 January 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Interesting nose of strawberry, raspberry and cherry compote, floral notes. Medium bodied, silky in texture, rather elegant and almost Pinot-like. Touch of spice on the mid-palate. Warming alcohol on the finish, which leaves an overall impression of the wine being disjointed.
Score: 15/20