2011 AZ. AGRIC. IL PIGNETTO BARDOLINO - SHE AIN'T NO BEAUTY QUEEN

When thinking of the red wines of Italy’s Veneto region, one immediately turns to distinctive Amarone della Valpolicella, a powerful, alcoholic, often slightly bitter wine made from grapes that have deliberately been allowed to raisin. At the opposite end of the spectrum is Bardolino.

Located near the shores of Lake Garda, Bardolino is a DOC recognised for producing relatively light wines utilising a similar composition of grape varieties to those that make-up Amarone. Poor examples can be thin and vapid and certainly don’t enhance the appellation’s reputation.

This particular Bardolino is true to style. The wine isn’t particularly deep in colour. Indeed, to us in the Antipodes, it could easily be taken for a bold rosé. On initial nosing, one doesn’t hold out a tremendous amount of promise; there’s a distinct volatile edge. To the uninitiated, the palate might underwhelm at first taste, a touch of sour cherry and redcurrant leading to a dry finish. A light chill improves matters somewhat.

What transforms this wine is serving it alongside appropriate food, in this instance a post-Christmas selection of cold meats and salads. A wine that superficially comes across as dry and vapid suddenly comes to life, at one enhancing the dining experience and putting a large smile on one’s face. It’s not a wine that is ever going be rated 95+ points by those that care for scores, but it works a treat with simple food.  Isn't this what wine is supposed to do? After all, you can't drink all those points.....

2011 BARDOLINO
Producer: Azienda Agricola Il Pignetto
Variety: Corvina et al
Vintage: 2011
Region: Veneto, Italy
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $23.00
Date tasted: 28 December 2012

Tasting Note:
Translucent cherry red. Slightly volatile nose, cherry confiture. Dry medium bodied, very savoury, redcurrant, lively acidity, touch of drying tannin on the finish. Much improved when served slightly chilled alongside food. Not overly complex, but a revelation with cold meats and salads.
Score: 15+/20