28 June 2012

2009 SUAVIA 'MONTE CARBONARE' SOAVE CLASSICO - A VERY SUAVE SOAVE

Soave is a name all too often associated with thin, insipid and watery wine grown on the plains of the Veneto region between Vicenza and Verona. However, there are a number of quality producers flying the flag for Soave and the Garganega grape variety. One leading producer is appropriately named Suavia. This family-owned estate dates back to the late 1800’ss, but it wasn’t until a century later that the Tessari family decided to bottle their own wines, rather than sell their fruit to the local cooperative.

The 2009 Soave Classico ‘Monte Carbonare’ has deservedly met with many positive reviews in Italy. It is a single vineyard wine, fermented in stainless steel. It sees 15 months on lees, contributing to the wine’s bright colour and lending textural weight. Malolactic fermentation is blocked, which helps the wine to retain a fine spine of acidity.

On pouring, the wine is noticeably deeper in colour than many Soaves, golden yellow rather than a watery white. It literally jumps out of the glass, with attractive peach, pear, honeysuckle and floral notes. This extremely well made Soave is full flavoured and dangerously moreish. Although there is plenty of flavour, it is extremely well balanced and never flirts with excess. It is a wine that will convert many to the wonders of Italian white wine.

Although drinking well now, the producer notes that it can be aged for 8-10 years, during which time it should build textural weight and more honeyed notes will develop.

2009 SOAVE CLASSICO ‘MONTE CARBONARE’
Producer: Azienda Agricole Suavia
Variety: Garganega
Vintage: 2009
Region: Veneto, Italy
ABV:
13.0%
Closure: Natural Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $32.99
Date tasted: 23 June 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Highly attractive nose of white peach, pear, toasted almond meal and honeysuckle. Dry, medium bodied, excellent fruit intensity, as per the nose, in the peach/pear vein, hint of creamed honey, all held in check by fine, well balanced acidity. Finishes long and dry. This is an excellent example of how good Soave can be; real depth of flavour.
Score: 17/20

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