24 June 2012

LUKE LAMBERT SYRAH - THE WHOLE BUNCH

Luke Lambert is one of a host of relatively young winemakers utilising what some would consider to be a minimum intervention approach to producing their wines. Traditionally, Australian producers have been schooled to control the winemaking process, to play it safe and thereby eliminate potential risks.

Over the past decade, an increasing number of young and well travelled winemakers have chosen to tread a different path, allowing the wine to ferment naturally, eschewing the use of inoculated yeasts. There has been a trend among some toward whole bunch fermentation, that is, including whole bunches of grapes, often including the stems, in the fermentation vessel. This approach has long been used in Burgundy, where the technique originated, and by some New World Pinot Noir producers. However, it is not the traditional way to vinify Shiraz.

There is an increasing number of Australian Shiraz on the shelves these days made using whole bunch fermentation (in part or in full). Such wines tend to be characterised by bright aromatics and a supple even slippery texture with very fine tannins.  In terms of texture, they often possess a mouthfeel that is more akin to a Pinot Noir than a Shiraz. To some, the wines can be alluring and attractive, drinking well in their youth. To others, the wines can appear to lack structure and depth.  Like any wine, the quality of the raw materials is the most important factor.

Luke Lambert’s 2010 Syrah underwent wild yeast fermentation, with 60% whole bunches added. It was bottled without fining or filtration. Unlike some examples of ‘new wave’ whole bunch fermented Shiraz, the wine has genuine depth on both the nose and palate, a twist of ground black pepper lending authenticity to the Syrah moniker. Texture-wise, the wine is velvet smooth and polished, with fine grained near imperceptible tannins. While there is plenty of pleasure to be had already, there is sufficient depth of fruit to suggest that the wine should develop well in bottle for several years. Like any good wine, there clearly has been a sensitive hand at the winemaking tiller here, allowing the Yarra Valley fruit to come to the fore.

2010 SYRAH
Producer: Luke Lambert
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $40.00
Date tasted: 18 June 2012

Tasting Note:

Crimson, fading slightly toward the rim. Bright nose of blackberry, raspberry, ground black pepper, slightly meaty, violets adding floral lift. Dry, medium bodied, very plush, suave and polished, refined and elegant, dark fruit interwoven with star anise and fennel, gentle peppery note on the finish. Although very approachable in its youth, the wine should improve in bottle, at least over the medium term, with Rhône-like notes of charcuterie likely to emerge.
Score: 16.5+/20

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