17 June 2012

MUDDY WATER PINOT NOIR - SHE'S ALRIGHT!

Muddy Water is a small winery located in the Wairapara region on the east coast of New Zealand’s south island. Certified organic in 2011, it produces Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and, rather idiosyncratically, Pinotage.

Pinot Noir tends to fare well in Wairapara, thanks to its southerly latitude and cool maritime climate. This particular wine is one of three Pinot Noirs produced at Muddy Water. While it doesn’t possess the raw power of the flagship Slowhand Pinot Noir, it is arguably more elegant and truer to the variety.

Initially somewhat reticent on both the nose and the palate, the wine opens up over the course of half an hour or so to reveal varietal cherry, rhubarb and plum interwoven with floral aromatics. There’s good definition here, but just modest complexity at this point in time. That said, there is sufficient structure to suggest that there may be upside in cellaring for up to 5 years.

All in all, Muddy Water Pinot Noir is a good expression of the varietal and is a better wine that the more heavily extracted flagship Slowhand Pinot Noir from the same producer. Unlike many New World Pinot Noirs, it successfully combines ripeness with dryness, never flirting with confection. It is a wine worth watching over the next few years.

2009 PINOT NOIR
Producer: Muddy Water
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2009
Region: Wairapara, New Zealand
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $34.99
Date tasted: 11 June 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Initially reticent, the nose opens up to reveal cherry, rhubarb, plum, liquorice and star anise. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, bright cherry/rhubarb fruit interwoven with liquorice. Acidity is well integrated and tannins are fine grained. Although of moderate interest at present, the wine opened up considerably over the course of 1-2 hours, suggesting that there might be upside in cellaring it for 4-5 years.
Score: 16/20

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