17 June 2012

NV MORRIS CELLAR RESERVE GRAND LIQUEUR MUSCAT - LIQUID GOLD

We’ve talked about the odd piece of Australian wine history on these pages. Here is another, Rutherglen stalwart Morris wines. Although it has been absorbed into the global Pernod Ricard empire, a visit to Morris is like it always has been. Stepping into the cellar door is like taking a step back in time. Barrels of liquid gold, liqueur Muscat, Tawny ‘Port’ and the unfortunately rebranded Topaque mature under the galvanised iron roof.

As the name suggests, the Cellar Reserve range is available only at cellar door, a suitable reward for those prepared to make the journey to Rutherglen. In an era when Rutherglen stickies are no longer the dead set bargains they used to be, but are attracting the prices they merit, the Cellar Reserve releases from Morris are the stand-out in terms of quality and value.

The Cellar Reserve Grand Liqueur Muscat is deep mahogany, verging towards black in colour, indicative of a high proportion of aged material. The nose is at once captivating and complex, delivery an array of dried fruit, spices and burnt toffee, all of which are reflected on the palate, plus more. It is a wine to enjoy on its own at the end of a meal as a dessert in its own right, or balanced by a salty blue cheese such as Stilton or Roquefort.

N.V. CELLAR RESERVE GRAND LIQUEUR MUSCAT
Producer: Morris
Variety: Fortified Muscat
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Rutherglen, Victoria
ABV: 17.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 500ml
Retail price: $32.00
Date tasted: 9 June 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep mahogany, fading ever so slightly at the rim. Open and inviting nose of raisins, toffee, molasses, apricots, fig, dried peel, star anise, liquorice, tar. Rich, lusciously sweet, opulent, the nose follows through to the palate, which is thick and viscous. You really don’t need much of this wine – a little goes a long way as there is so much power, sweetness and complexity.
Score: 17.5/20

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