13 February 2012

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: BEST'S GREAT WESTERN

Historic Best’s winery, founded way back in 1866, is an Australian icon. A visit to Best’s is like taking a step back in time, with a number of original buildings, and vines that date back to the late 1800’s. Take a walk out the front of the cellar door and you’ll see 130 year old Dolcetto vines that were originally thought to be Malbec.

As a family-owned winery, Best’s has always tended to steer away from the norm. It is one of few wineries in the world to release a single varietal Pinot Meunier. Recent years have seen a marked improvement in the white wines at Best’s. The Rieslings and Pinot Gris are all excellent examples, albeit the flagship House Block Riesling (bottled off-dry in a Germanic style) is not cheap at $35.

Although Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown, the real star here is the Shiraz, a grape that was seemingly made for Great Western. The flagship Thomson Family Shiraz is without a doubt one of Australia’s best. At around $150 it is no bargain, but it compares favourably with many other luxury cuvees. Bin 0 Shiraz is a benchmark of its style; it’s all about textural elegance, forest berry fruit, tar and anise – sophisticated stuff indeed. Sadly, it is no longer the bargain it once was.

Bin 1 Shiraz, the newcomer in the line-up, delivers excellent value for money, and is the way to go for those seeking value. It should improve with cellaring for up to a decade.

2008 PINOT NOIR ROSÉ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $15.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Bright summery strawberry fruit on the nose. Dry and elegant, holding up well for a 3 year old rosé. Crisp and vibrant. Good length. Another good example of how far Australia has progressed with rosé as a style.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer:
Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
The 2011 is the first official release of this wine. Pale silvery lemon. Typical Pinot Gris nose of red and green apples. Touch of lychee. Dry and elegant, good fruit intensity. Vibrant lemon citrus acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pale, almost water white. Aromatic nose of Granny Smith apples, slightly floral. Medium dry, touch of spritz. Easy going style that would be well suited to moderately spiced Asian cuisine.
Score: 16/20

2010 HOUSE BLOCK RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 10.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Lemon sherbert and Granny Smith apples on the nose. Off-dry, good fruit intensity, once again green apples and lemon citrus. Slightly richer in texture than the basic Riesling. Lively acidity on the finish. A bit expensive for what it is.
Score: 16/20

2009 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT MEUNIER
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Meunier
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Meaty nose, rhubarb, cherry. Dry, medium bodied. Elegant, pure and savoury, dark cherry fruit. A nasty wine to taste blind!
Score: 16/20

2010 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR

Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Vibrant nose of cherries. Dry and elegant, quite light and savoury. There’s a light hand at work here, the wine comes across as being unforced. Dark cherry fruit again on the palate. Quite pleasant, albeit not particularly complex.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 OLD CLONE PINOT NOIR

Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $60.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From a single vineyard planted in 1867. Cherries and strawberries on the nose, together with sandalwood. Weighter and fuller in body than the Estate Pinot Noir. Slightly stalky edge. Decent length. A touch expensive.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Kirsch and fruit of the forest compote. Dry, medium bodied, gentle raspberry and boysenberry fruit. Not particularly intense or varietal, but clean and well made.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Intense raspberry red. Bold and flamboyant nose of tar, boysenberry, blueberry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, very elegant and fine. Ripe and sweet fruited to start, but finishes dry with structured tannins. Elegant and very impressive. Excellent value for money.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GREAT WESTERN BIN 0 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $75.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Slightly reticent nose; smoky oak, licorice, raspberry coulis, brambly fruit. Quite serious. Dry, slightly richer and fuller than the Bin 1. Concentrated essence of Shiraz. Firm structured tannins frame the finish which is long. Holds out great promise for the future.
Score: 18/20

2009 SPARKLING SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Crown cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Brambly fruit compote. Fruit sweetness upfront. Raspberry and plum laden fruit driven style that would be well suited to Chinese cuisine especially Peking Duck. 
Score: 16/20

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