7 February 2012

IT'S RIESLING, BUT NOT AS WE USUALLY KNOW IT

Weingut Leitz is a leading (and quite large) Rheingau producer based in Rüdesheim. 2006 was yet another warm year in German Riesling country, and also a vintage with high levels of botrytis. Wines at Auslese level and above thrived, while Kabinetts and Spätlesen have tended to be somewhat more variable.

The 2006 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese is an interesting case in point. This is certainly not a typical Rheingau Spätlese, but a rich and weighty Riesling that is edging toward opulence. There’s plenty of residual sugar here, and the wine possesses a glycerolic mouthful. Thankfully, all of this is held in check by a fine undertow of acidity. All in all, this is a slightly perverse, albeit rather enjoyably Riesling. If you are a purist, avoid; this is a wine for those with a hedonistic leaning.

2006 RÜDESHEIMER BERG SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING SPATLESE
Producer: Weingut Leitz
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2006
Region: Rheingau, Germany
ABV: 11.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 7 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow with a glint of gold. Vibrant and fruity nose of lime zest, ripe stonefruit and pineapple. Rich, weighty and slightly glycerolic on the palate. There’s a considerable amount of residual sugar that’s carried by a fine undertow of acidity. Although it makes enjoyable drinking, this is most definitely a typical Spätlese, nor is it for this that enjoy their Rieslings featherweight and brisk. Thanks to the weighty mouthfeel and relatively high level of residual sugar, it’s not an easy task to map this wine’s evolutionary path.
Score: 16+/20

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