3 February 2012

2000 COUDOULET DE BEACUASTEL + 2000 LE VIEUX DONJON CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

The southern Rhône is home to the world’s best Grenache-based wines; rich, alcoholic, savoury and spicy. They are powerful and robust wines that suit appropriately full flavoured food. Of the many appellations in the southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is without a doubt the most venerated. Yet within Châteauneuf-du-Pape there is enormous variation in quality, from truly profound wines that develop for more than 20 years, to insipid fruit cordial that barely passes as wine.

At the opposite end of the appellation scale is Côtes de Rhône, an enormous appellation that covers much of the Rhône Valley. Once again, quality is enormously variable, though at its peak it doesn’t hit the heights of quality Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or Gigondas, Vacqueyras and some of the many southern Rhône appellations with a village designation.

This line-up places what is a modest Côtes de Rhône, in name only, up against one of the leading Châteauneufs, Le Vieux Donjon. Coudoulet de Beaucastel is made by legendary estate Château de Beaucastel from grapes grown in the Côtes de Rhône, just outside of the boundary of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. As such, it is really a ‘baby Beaucastel’, and should be judged accordingly. Over a decade on from vintage, the 2000 Coudoulet de Beaucastel is near full maturing, displaying slight earthiness and gentle spice.

On the other hand, 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Vieux Donjon remains a relative pup. This traditionally vinified wine is still taut and structured, needing another 4-5 years to reveal its full potential. At current pricing, it remains excellent value for money given the prices of other similar wines (Clos des Papes, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe) in the region.

2000 COUDOULET DE BEAUCASTEL
Producer: Château de Beaucastel
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2000
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 23 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Mature nose of hung game, quite meaty and earthy, reflected on the palate, together with dark Asian spices. The Mourvèdre and the Syrah really dominate this wine. Drink now, preferably with robust red meat dishes.
Score: 15.5/20

2000 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
Producer: Le Vieux Donjon
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2000
Variety: Southern Rhône blend
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 23 September 2011 

Tasting Note:
Medium garnet, faded slightly at the rim. Bold and spicy nose of star anise and white pepper, slightly floral (lavender). Dry, full bodied, soft fine tannins, plum/damson fruit, spicy on the finish. Still young and needs to be left for another 4-5 years.
Score: 16.5+/20

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