2013 THICK AS THIEVES PINOTAGE - SHOCKED!

We don’t often see Pinotage in Australia. Many would say, all the better. A crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, at its worst, Pinotage can exemplify all that’s is wrong with wine; volatile with disjointed tannins. Yes, there are good examples of Pinotage in South Africa, both as single varietals, and as ‘Cape blends’. However, it is true to say that Pinotage is rarely associated with fine wine.

Here we have Pinotage from the Upper Yarra Valley given a make-over by one of Australia’s more talented young winemakers, the man behind the ‘Thick as Thieves’ label. This is Pinotage with a difference, made like a Beaujolais using whole bunch fermentation. The resulting wine is elegant, stylish and very attractive. It captures some of the best aspects of the variety, but with more finesse than one would expect from many of the best South African examples. There’s a lot to like here. Bravo ‘Thick as Thieves’!

2013 PINOTAGE
Producer: Thick as Thieves
Variety: Pinotage
Vintage: 2013
Region: Yarra Valley
ABV: 13.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 30 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Interesting nose of rhubarb, cherry, cumin, bay leaf and aniseed. Dry, medium bodied and elegant. The bouquet is reflected on the palate which is fine and ‘pretty’. Elegant, stylish and genuinely interesting. Dangerously drinkable! Could give Pinotage a good name!!
Score: 17+/20

2008 SPINIFEX TAUREAU - CLOSE, BUT NO CIGAR.....

Spinifex Wines is deservedly recognised for producing some of the region’s finest southern French-inspired red wines. They are sensitively made wines that showcase Barossa Valley terroir. What about when Spinifex turns its hands to things Iberian, in this instance a Rioja inspired Tempranillo blend?

On the nose, the wine is true to style, with typical notes of cola and sarsaparilla. The palate is savoury and medium bodied, but doesn’t quite live up to the bouquet. There’s a fair bit to like here, and one cannot complain of a lack of ambition. All in all, it’s a good representation of the type, perhaps lacking a touch by way of complexity.

2008 TAUREAU
Producer: Spinifex Wines
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Vintage: 2008
Region: Barossa Valley
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 8 December 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Open nose of black cherry, cola/sarsaparilla, tobacco leaf and roasted spices. Dry, medium bodied, typical Tempranillo profile. Palate follows on from the nose. Elegant and stylish; fruit driven. Moderate complexity. Finishes with a touch of warming alcohol.
Score: 16/20

2012 CIRAMI LAGREIN - I WILL FOLLOW

We have previously seen the Cirami Montepulciano on these pages, a wine from South Australia’s warm Riverland region that over-delivers and promises considerable potential for the future. Cirami’s flirtation with Italian varietals continues with Lagrein, a grape that originates from Italy’s alpine north. How does the variety fair in the Riverland? On the nose, it displays considerable promise, rather complex and true to type. The initial promise doesn’t quite carry through on the palate which is rather straightforward and marked by powdery tannin.

Although not as successful as the Montepulciano, there is a lot to like about the work being done under the Cirami label. It is definitely one to follow over the next few years.

2012 LAGREIN
Producer: Cirami
Variety: Lagrein
Vintage: 2012
Region: Riverland
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 21 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Inviting nose of morello cherry, cola, coconut and charcoal. Medium bodied, initially tight on the palate but opens up with air to reveal sour cherry. Noticeable powdery tannin. Quite simple. Perhaps needs a couple of years?
Score: 15/20

2012 ELDRIDGE ESTATE GAMAY - SO SOLID CRU

Eldridge Estate is one of the leading Mornington Peninsula producers. In addition to the typical Peninsula duo of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it also makes a Gamay, as well as a Burgundy-inspired Gamay and Pinot Noir blend, called PTG in homage to Bourgogne Passetoutgrains.

Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais isn’t seen very widely outside of its region of origin and the Loire Valley. This example (together with Beechworth’s Sorrenberg) suggests that there could be a good future for the variety in Australia’s cool climate regions.

The wine possesses a lovely bouquet of tilled earth, truffle and lilac. The palate is dry, savoury and elegant, a lick of cool tannin suggesting that there is upside cellaring potential. Anyone acquainted with the sturdier Beaujolais Crus (Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent come to mind) would find a lot to like here. This is a serious example of a much under-rated variety, in quality terms more than an equal to the growing number of ambitious wines from Beaujolais.

2012 GAMAY
Producer: Eldridge Estate
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2012
Region: Mornington Peninsula
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 23 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Medium garnet. Intriguing nose of lilac, freshly tilled earth and truffle. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, earthy, red fruits, nice lick of tannin, bright balanced acidity. Serious Gamay! Top drawer material that is the match for any Cru Beaujolais.
Score: 17/20

2013 WILD DUCK CREEK 'LITTLE WHITE DUCK' VIOGNIER - IN YOUR FACE!

To some, Viognier can be a ‘take it or leave it’ variety. With its exotic apricot kernel character and relatively low acidity, food is most certainly a must. The best examples of Condrieu manage to walk the tightrope of flamboyant aromatics and finesse, as has Yalumba with it’s barrel fermented Virgilius Viognier.

What happens when David ‘Duck’ Anderson at Heathcote’s Wild Duck Creek plies his wares with Viognier? For the uninitiated, Wild Duck Creek has built a name for producing high octane yet immaculately balanced Heathcote Shiraz. Altough alcohol levels for ‘Duck Muck’ and the Reserve Shiraz often exceed 16%, rarely does one detect alcohol heat. At 15% ABV, Wild Duck Creek’s ‘Little White Duck’ Viognier is very much in the house style. Indeed, it’s bottled at 15% ABV with noticeable residual sugar; one wonders what it could have hit if fermented fully dry!

It should come as no surprises that ‘Little White Duck’ Viognier is not a shy and retiring chap. Viognier on steroids is an apt descriptor. Yet, with context, the wine works. As alluded to in the first paragraph, food is a must. In this instance, moderately spiced dishes from the sub-continent and northern Africa would be the perfect match.

2013 'LITTLE WHITE DUCK' VIOGNIER
Producer: Wild Duck Creek
Variety: Viognier
Vintage: 2013
Region: Heathcote
ABV: 15%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 23 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of pineapple, apricot and peach, background spice. Off-dry, rich, thick and glycerolic. Flavour profile is much the same as the nose. Opulent and hedonistic. Not for the faint hearted!
Score: 16/20

2011 YABBY LAKE SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY - TRIM, TAUT AND TERRIFIC

In the past decade or so there has been a quantum shift in Australian Chardonnay. While heavy winemaking intervention (lees stirring, 100% malolactic fermentation, significant use of new oak) once ruled the day, many have now chosen to adopt a ‘less is more’ approach. In some cases, this has included blocking malolactic fermentation altogether, as well as substantially scaling back the use of new oak.

By and large, this stylistic shift (together with the emergence of cool climate regions) has been for the good, resulting in more sophisticated wines that are better balanced and, in theory, should be capable of ageing longer. However, in some instances, taut and steely has been confused with lean, hard and malic.

While stylistic changes are there to be assessed and perhaps embraced, one should never divorce oneself from the tenet that great winemaking is about providing the best expression of site. With that it mind, we should also be cognisant of the fact that two of Australia’s greatest Chardonnays, Giaconda and Main Ridge, both undergo near enough to 100% malolactic fermentation. However, thanks to the great sites from which they are grown, they lack nothing for freshness, balance and the ability to age.

Yabby Lake is one of the leading lights of ‘new wave’ of Australian Chardonnay. The 2011 (a vintage that increasingly appears to have produced some truly outstanding Chardonnays) was bottled at a modest 12% ABV, low by contemporary standards. The first thing one notices about this wine is the nose; forget primary fruit or spicy oak, it’s all about struck match. In this instance, it adds complexity and interest. Structurally, the wine is driven by a noticeable line of acidity, though not at the expense of fruit. There is excellent balance here and while steely and taut, there is nothing mean or underdone about the wine. All in all, it is a very intelligently composed representation of modern Australian Chardonnay, one that will appeal to those who don’t mind a wine with a bit of attitude.

2011 SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
Producer: Yabby Lake
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2011
Region: Mornington Peninsula
ABV: 12%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $39.99
Date tasted: 8 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow. Open nose, struck match sulphides, grapefruit pith, lemon and crab apple, white flowers. Dry, savoury, medium bodied, marked by fine acidity which provides the backbone of the wine, green apple, lemon and grapefruit citrus. Steely and taut. Classy of its type and should develop well.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 CH. PIERRE BISE SAVENNIERES ROCHE-AUX-MOINES - SOMETHING TO SAVOUR

We have previously reviewed the 2009 rendition of the Savennieres Roche-Aux-Moines from Chateau Pierre Bise on these pages. The 2011 vintage follows in similarly fine form, albeit as a more delicate and slightly reticent incarnation of the 2009.

Loire Chenin Blanc, whether it be Vouvray, Anjou, Montlouis or Savennieres, has never quite gone mainstream. It tends to be very much a food style, often mineral rather than fruit driven, and dare I say, a rather ‘adult’ style of wine. It can, however, be highly rewarding, and prices are generally reasonably, especially when compared with white Burgundy and the best examples of dry white Bordeaux.

This release is true to style. Decanted before drinking, it only started to open up after a good hour to an hour and a half, revealing typical notes of green apple and crushed rock minerality. It is a savoury white wine, one that drinks a bit like a red wine. It should benefit from cellaring for 6-8 years.

2011 SAVENNIERES ROCHE-AUX-MOINES
Producer: Chateau Pierre Bise
Variety: Chenin Blanc
Vintage: 2011
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 14%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 27 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. With decanting, opens up to reveal notes of green apples, cider?!, pear, crushed rocks. Dry, medium bodied, savoury and ‘serious’, but not austere in any way. Fleshy and with good palate weight. Like licking wet stones, slightly fermented apples. Lovely stuff in its context.
Score: 17/20

2004 CARPINETO CHIANTI CLASSICO - IN THE SLOT!

Although it sits (alongside Barolo) as Italy’s most famous wine, Chianti is enormously variable in terms of quality. While considerable gains have been made in the past two to three decades, most particularly in terms of increasing the percentage of Sangiovese in the final blend and reducing the use of white grapes, Chianti styles vary considerably.

Chianti Classico, for many the standard bearer of quality Chianti (though producers of Chianti Rufina would beg to differ) is a far from homogenous appellation. The styles of wines produced are as diverse as the rolling hills of central Tuscany from which they originate. Blending partners such as Canaiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot all lend their own personality to the final wine, as do the different oak maturation regimes employed by the region’s many producers.

With that in mind, it is refreshing to come across a benchmark example of ‘classic’ Chianti from the excellent 2004 vintage. Almost a decade on, it is drinking at the peak of its powers, a lovely blend of fading primary fruit and secondary complexity. This particular bottle illustrates the importance of timing, as the cork was drawn at pretty much the perfect point in its evolution.

2004 CHIANTI CLASSICO
Producer: Carpineto
Variety: Sangiovese
Vintage: 2004
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 13 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Mid garnet, starting to brown on the rim. Mature nose of leather, fig, sandalwood, cherry lurking in the background. Round, soft and inviting on the palate, lovely balance of faded primary fruit and secondary complexity. Tannins have completely resolved and the acidity is fine and well balanced. Excellent example of mature Chianti Classico. Top marks for typicity!
Score: 17/20

2011 WESTEND ESTATE THREE BRIDGES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - WINNERS ARE GRINNERS

Much is said and written of the Australian Show system. On the plus side, one can argue that it elevates the overall quality of wine made in this country and helps eliminate or at least reduce the incidence of faulty wines. Some suggest that it can lead to a homogenisation of wine, and a ‘bigger is better’ approach, arguing that more elegant, backward wines don’t show well when assessed en masse. Then there is the point that many of the very best producers don’t enter their wines in competition.

With this in mind, what does it mean to be the Stodart Trophy winner? Second in importance to the Jimmy Watson Trophy (from a commercial stand-point), the Stodart Trophy is awarded to the best one-year old dry red wine submitted for judging at the Royal Queensland Wine Show. Winner of the Stodart Trophy in 2012 was the 2011 Three Bridges Cabernet Sauvignon from Riverina-based producer Westend Estate.

As to the wine, it is no blockbuster, rather an elegant and very classic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend of Riverina (60%) and Hilltops (40%) fruit, it is archetypal Cabernet Sauvignon. At this early stage in its life it displays at best moderate complexity, but there is upside for further development. All in all, it’s a well made, stylish wine.

What does this say of the show system? For one, it’s clear that wines are being judged on more than just raw power; consideration is being given to varietal integrity, elegance, purity and how the wines perform on the dinner table. If that reflects an overall shift in the consciousness of the Australian wine industry, then it is no bad thing.

2011 THREE BRIDGES CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Westend Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2011
Region: Multi-regional (Riverina and Hilltops)
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $26.00
Date tasted: 24 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Nose is initially driven by cassis and blackberry coulis, opening with air up to reveal classical Cabernet Sauvignon dusty and earthy notes as well as menthol and charcoal. Dry, medium bodied, a model of elegance, very varietal and ‘classical’, sweet fruited up-front. Not overly complex at present, but there is genuine varietal integrity and excellence balance here. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 16+/20

2011 WILD DUCK CREEK YELLOW HAMMER HILL - GENTLE GIANT

Over the years, Heathcote producer Wild Duck Creek has built up a cult following for its rather idiosyncratic wines. The estate’s wines are picked very ripe, and often ferment through to over 16% alcohol buy volume. Yet, unlike some of their peers, the wines of Wild Duck Creek manage to retain a sense of balance. Indeed, some of its wines even come over as being rather elegant (of their type).

As has been well documented, 2011 was a cool wet vintage across much of southern Australia. In this imbiber’s view, it has produced some very attractive wines in warmer regions such as Heathcote, checking the tendency toward excess. Volumes were significantly reduced at Wild Duck Creek in 2011, and neither ‘Duck Muck’ or the Reserve Shiraz were bottled.

The 2011 Yellow Hammer Hill, a blend of Shiraz and Malbec weighs in 15% alcohol. However, the wine is not a boisterous heavyweight. Yes, the nose screams warm climate Shiraz, the Malbec lending black fruits. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied, an attractive blend of sweet and sour, the alcohol extremely well balanced and barely discernible. Those who like their wines with plenty of up-front fruit should find plenty to enjoy.

2011 YELLOW HAMMER HILL
Producer: Wild Duck Creek
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz blend (blended with 25% Malbec)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Heathcote
ABV: 15%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose of liqueur cherries, blackberry, liquorice, tar. At the fuller end of medium bodied, soft and approachable, nice balance of sweet and sour, melange of red and black fruits, tar on the finish. Alcohol is, by and large, held in check.
Score: 16/20

2010 DOMAINE WILFRIED RASTEAU - DEMOCRACY IN ACTION

Rasteau is one of a growing number of southern Rhône villages that has official appellation status. From the excellent 2010 vintage, the Rasteau from Domaine Wilfried (a producer hitherto unknown to this imbiber) is a very typical premium southern Rhône red.

Ripe, full bodied and with generous alcohol, it delivers a mélange of kirsch/raspberry, savoury herbs and spice. Round and supple, it is a wine that is dangerously easy to drink. While they mightn’t possess the finesse and ethereal quality of red Burgundy, or the serious qualities of classed growth Bordeaux, there is something democratic about the wines of the southern Rhône. With the exception of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, they are affordable, boldly fruited, generous, spicy and dare I say, comforting.  This wine isn’t about to change the world or send drinkers into a frenzy, but it does deliver a considerable amount of pleasure for a relatively modest outlay.  

2010 RASTEAU
Producer: Domaine Wilfried
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 14.00 Euros
Date tasted: 12 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose; smoky, black cherry/raspberry, meaty and gamey, thyme and mint. Very inviting. Dry, rich and powerful, melange of red and black fruit, meaty and spicy. Full bodied, full flavoured and bold, but far from over the top. Comforting glass of wine.
Score: 16/20

2010 DOMAINE DES GROS PATA CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC - SUPPORT THE UNDERDOG

When it comes to the wines of France’s southern Rhône Valley, white wines very much play second fiddle to red. With their natural ripeness, sweet up-front fruit and spicy complexity, the region’s red wines are easy to like, especially for Australian palates that have been raised on ripe, fruit forward wines.

We hear relatively little of the region’s white wines. A recent visit to the region changed this particular imbiber’s view. As they lack the natural freshness of wines from Frances more northerly region’s, southern Rhône whites are not always easy to enjoy on their own.  However, when placed alongside appropriate food, especially white meat dishes such as chicken and veal, they literally sing.

The wine reviewed here was far from the most interesting example tasted while in the region. However, at a very modest price, it delivers plenty of pleasure. One could imagine enjoying a glass or two alongside a simply baked snapper or chicken salad.

2012 CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC
Producer: Domaine des Gros Pata
Variety: Southern Rhône white blend (Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Viognier, Bourbelenc)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Plastic cork
Retail Price: 5.60 Euros
Date tasted: 10 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Bright nose with gentle aromatics (honeysuckle, apricot), white peach. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. Simple palate of green apple and apricot. Gentle and round. Nice easy quaffing white with a modicum of complexity.
Score: 14.5/20

2010 DOMAINE DU MORTIER ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL 'DIONYSOS' - YOU'RE SO COOL

The central Loire Valley has pretty much a monopoly when it comes to single varietal Cabernet Franc. The appellations of Chinon, Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil set the standard when it comes to the variety. For one reason or another, they tend to be wines appreciated by a relatively select few. Accordingly, the very best examples are very reasonably priced.

Under-ripe Cabernet Franc can be rather unpleasant, with painfully astringent tannins. However, the best examples of the variety display lovely fragrant aromatics, a ripe yet savoury palate, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. These elegant and extremely food friendly wines are well suited to Australia’s warm climate; medium in body and with a natural freshness typical of the best wines of the cool Loire Valley.

This particular example was organically farmed by Domaine du Mortier, a relatively new player in St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Slightly reductive at first, it displays the best attributes of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc; a red-fruited nose, stylish palate and bright lifted acidity. To be fair, it is just a youngster, and will benefit from another 4-6 years in bottle. Cabernet Franc, take a bow, you’ve won this drinker over.

2010 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘DIONYSOS’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $34.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Slightly reductive on opening, but blows off with air, rhubarb, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant, pencil shavings. Dry, ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit up-front, graphite, woodsmoke, elegant and medium bodied, ripe fine tannins, well integrated fine acidity on the finish. Quite primary – needs 5 or so years in the cellar.
Score: 16.5/20

2010 CANTINA TERLANO PINOT BIANCO RISERVA 'VORBERG' - YOU'RE THE ONE THAT I WANT!

Pinot Bianco aka Pinot Blanc is a variety that is rarely associated with excitement.  Clean and fresh – yes. Chardonnay-like – perhaps. Exciting – rarely. One exception to the rule is the quite brilliant Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’ from northern Italian co-operative Cantina Terlano.

The 2010 rendition of this highly acclaimed wine possesses a greenish yellow colour. The nose is immediately inviting. This is clearly a serious wine, and a highly complex one at that. White peach, pear, lemon/lime zest, freshly chopped herb and minerals ooze out of the glass. In the mouth, the wine is textured, palate caressing and remarkably intense in flavour, yet balanced by finely poised citrusy acidity, a reflection of its alpine origin.

Cantina Terlano’s Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’ is a standard bearer for Italian white wine, and very strong evidence to support the argument that Italy is the source of the worlds finest white wines. Certainly, no other country can boast Italy’s diversity. At just under $60 per bottle, it doesn’t come cheap, but for a wine of such quality, it represents excellent value when compared to the likes of white Burgundy and Alsace.

2010 PINOT BIANCO RISERVA ‘VORBERG’
Producer: Cantina Terlano
Variety: Pinot Blanc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alto Adige, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $58.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Inviting aromatic nose of pear, white peach, lemon zest and fresh herbs. Dry, medium bodied crystalline purity, excellent depth of flavour, lovely palate weight underscored by a fine line of acidity, perfectly composed and balanced. Drinking superbly now. More evidence of the qualities of premium Italian white wine.
Score: 18/20

2010 RAVENSWORTH MARSANNE - INTENSE!

Tahbilk Marsanne has long been a staple for many Australian wine enthusiasts. In its youth, Tahbilk Marsanne tends to be rather shy, backward and reticent, fleshing out with bottle age. The 2010 Marsanne from Ravensworth is in marked contrast. Boldly flavoured, intense and powerful, it is a muscular interpretation of Marsanne.

At first glance, one wasn’t completely sure about this wine. With just moderate acdity and a touch of warming alcohol on the finish, it initially came over as a rather awkward. Yet, as the wine opened up and warmed up slightly in the glass, it really started to strut its stuff. Subtle it might not be, but this is a wine that delivers plenty by way of flavour, and is extremely food friendly. At around $20 a bottle, it more than merits the moniker ‘bargain’.

Having perused the producer’s website, it seems that 2011 was the final vintage for this particular wine, with the Marsanne fruit destined for a field blend named ‘The Grainery’. If this particular wine is any evidence, ‘The Grainery’ is a wine that could well be worth following.

2010 MARSANNE
Producer: Ravensworth
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2010
Region: Murrumbateman, New South Wales
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 5 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of peach, honeydew and fig. The palate is similarly bold and intensely flavoured, with a similar spectrum as the nose, crystallised stem ginger. Immensely powerful example of Marsanne, with just enough acidity to hold it in check. Warm alcohol on the finish.
Score: 16+/20

2011 TERZINI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO - 'YOU GET WHAT YOU PAYS FOR'

There is a good number of relatively inexpensive examples Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to be found in the Australian wine marketplace, some of which have gained a sizeable following. While one can secure a smartly packaged inoffensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at the bargain price of $10 per bottle, what can one expect for an outlay of $28?

If the 2011, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Terzini is anything to go by, with Montepulciano as with many things in life, ‘you get what you pays for’. True to the variety, it is inky crimson/magenta colour. The nose is powerful and brooding, yet not without a feminine edge, as floral notes emerge with air. Although not profound, the wine eminently drinkable, silky in texture and deeply fruited. It is a near perfect with rich Italian ragus. Although the wine sits at the riper end of the Montepulciano spectrum, it is compact and well balanced, with no evidence of excess.

2011 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO
Producer: Terzini
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2011
Region: Abruzzo, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Inky magenta. Intense nose of blackberry/blueberry coulis; dark fruit and brooding. Hint of black pepper. Sweet fruited up-front, alluring texture – medium bodied, silky and stylish. Floral notes emege with air. Savoury on the mid-palate, dark fruits (damson, blackberry, blueberry), slightly smoky. Long finish. Not enormously complex, but delivers immense pleasure.
Score: 17+/20

2011 CURLY FLAT CHARDONNAY - CREAM.....

In this particular imbiber’s not so humble opinion, Macedon is one of ,if not the, most exciting regions in mainland Australia for the two great Burgundian varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The likes of Bindi, Epis and Curly Flat produce some of the most refined examples and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir seen in Australia today.

2011 is a rather derided vintage in much of Australia. It was a cool, damp year, one that presented a number of viticultural issues, not the least being the proliferation of rot. Yet, there seems to be a bit of revisionism going on, with some who initially saw little charm in the vintage now acknowledging that there were some real winners in 2011.

While 2011 was a challenging vintage, Chardonnay was a triumph. While Mornington Peninsula veteran Main Ridge didn’t release a Pinot Noir from 2011, proprietor Nat White suggests that the 2011 Chardonnay could be the best ever produced chez Main Ridge.   Anyone who has tasted the 2011 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay will recognise that it is one of the best white wines ever bottled on these shores.

The team at Curly Flat are equally upbeat about their 2011 Chardonnay. At 13.5% ABV, it’s certainly not a shy and retiring creature. On the nose, it is open, inviting and immediately complex. The bouquet delivers an interesting array of primary fruit and winemaking derived characters. In the mouth, it is quite a ‘worked’ Chardonnay, round and creamy in texture, with fine acidity providing balance and length. It is a good Chardonnay without a doubt, but perhaps not quite up to the standard of the excellent 2010, which seems to have just a touch more structure. That said, lovers of premium Australian Chardonnay will find a lot to like here, and with good reason.

2011 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Curly Flat
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2011
Region: Macedon Ranges
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 29 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow with golden glints. Open nose of honeydew melon, white peach, grilled hazelnuts and vanilla. Round and creamy in texture, extremely drinkable, even on its own. Fine balancing acidity carries the finish. Good quality Chardonnay of a relatively ‘worked’ style. There’s plenty to like here, though it would seem to be best enjoyed in the short to medium term.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PONDALOWIE MT TEMPRANILLO - NEW WAVE

We have looked at previous vintages of the Pondalowie’s unoaked MT Tempranillo in these pages. The 2012 vintages follows suit and is in fine form. It is a wine that illustrates just how well suited Tempranillo is suited to Australia.

As always, Dominic Morris has captured the varietal essence of Tempranillo, unbridled by oak – medium in body, black cherry entwined with cherry cola/sarsaparilla, fine tannins on the finish. It is a supple and savoury wine, made to be enjoyed with food.

If one was to put together a collection of wines that showcase the ‘new Australia’, Pondalowie MT Tempranillo would mostly definitely be in the mix; moderate alcohol, savoury in character, food-friendly and ever-so drinkable. Isn’t that what most of us want from a bottle of good wine?

2012 MT TEMPRANILLO
Producer: Pondalowie Vineyards
Variety: Tempranillo
Vintage: 2012
Region: Bendigo
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date Tasted: 28 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Crimson to the core. Black cherry, plum and ‘cherry cola'. Medium bodied, well poised, glossy texture, excellent fruit intensity in the black cherry, sarsaparilla mode. Finishes long and savoury with gentle chalky tannins. Lots to enjoy now, but should develop further complexity with additional bottle age.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 DOMAINE RICHAUD CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE - PRODUCER, PRODUCER, PRODUCER

In France, as anywhere, producer is key. Appellation is only a guarantee of origin, not of quality. In the enormous Côtes du Rhône AOC, this assertion is particularly true. From dilute and thoroughly uninspiring wines to would-be Chateauneuf-du-Pape such as Château de Beaucastel’s Coudoulet de Beaucastel, it is a region of immense scale and range in quality.

There is also the question of cépage. Many of the larger negociant bottlings (including those of Guigal and Delas) are Syrah dominant. They are quite different beasts to the many Grenache-heavy Côtes du Rhônes. This particular imbiber admits to being rather impartial to Grenache, a sometimes derided variety that can veer toward confectionary flavours if not handled correctly.

This particular Côtes du Rhône, from Cairanne-based Domaine Richaud showcases the appellation in the best possible light. By all accounts, the domaine references the great Chateauneuf-du-Pape estate Château Rayas as its benchmark. Those familiar Rayas will know that is recognised for producing 100% Grenache wines of great finesse, elegance and aromatic complexity.

This particular wine doesn’t quite ascend to those heights, but it is a superior Côtes du Rhône. It maintains a lovely balance of sweet up-front fruit, floral aromatics, spice and a hint of the wild. While not enormously complex, there is sufficient depth and structure to suggest that it should hold and indeed develop in bottle for a further 2-3 years.

2012 CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE ‘TERRE D’AIGLES’
Producer: Domaine Richaud
Variety: Grenache et al (Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre, Counoise)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 15%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 10.00 Euros
Date tasted: 10 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Open nose of cherry confiture/kirsch, raspberry, floral notes, meaty/gamey, fennel and thyme. Quite a pretty nose. Sweet fruited up-front, very soft tannins, quite luxurious. Does not show its 15% ABV! Savoury mid-palate leading to a spice-laden finish. Superior glugging Côtes du Rhône – little to complain about!
Score: 16/20

2009 MERLIN MOULIN-A-VENT 'LA ROCHELLE' - CLOSED FOR BUSINESS

Olivier Merlin is one of a number of highly respected producers from other regions to have commenced operations in Beaujolais in the past decade or so. Regarded as one of the leading lights of the Maconnais, Merlin crafts wines from two of the leading crus in Beaujolais, Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent.

This particular wine is produced on the granitic outcrops of Moulin-a-Vent. From the excellent 2009 vintage in Beaujolais, it displays typical damson and dark cherry fruit underpinned by stony minerality. At present, the wine desperately needs air, and seems a little bit ‘locked down’. There is quality here, but it would seem that the wine is in a slightly obdurate mood, needing another 2-3 years to open up.

2009 MOULIN-A-VENT ‘LA ROCHELLE’
Producer: Olivier Merlin
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 17.00 Euros
Date tasted: 9 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright damson red. Slightly closed nose; damson, violet, dark cherry. Medium bodied, savoury and dry. Perhaps going through a slightly closed phase? Mineral/stony edge. Although not open for business at the moment, there is quality on show here. Sour cherry acidity carries the finish.
Score: 15.5++/20

2011 DOMAINE DU MORTIER ST JOSEPH 'SOULANE' - PEPPER!

St Joseph and Crozes Hermitage stand out as the two ‘go to’ appellations for those seeking value in the northern Rhône. While the wines of St Joseph tend to be earlier maturing than those of Cornas, Côte Rotie and Hermitage, the best examples capture the peppery essence of northern Rhône Syrah.

Such is the case with the 2011 St Joseph ‘Soulane’ from Domaine du Mortier. The wine delivers cherry/raspberry coulis overlaid by a gentle layer of cracked black pepper, floral lift lending aromatic complexity. Two years on from vintage, it’s a touch on the young side, and desperately needs food, preferably steak au poivre, venison or pigeon.

2011 ST JOSEPH ‘SOULANE’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2011
Region: Northern Rhône, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 18.00 Euros
Date tasted: 8 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Inky raspberry red. Inviting nose of cherry/raspberry coulis, cracked black pepper, lilac and violets. Medium bodied, elegant, sweet fruited up-front quickly moves to savoury on the mid-palate. Liquorice, quite meaty. Noticeable peppery spice on the finish. Essence of northern Rhône Syrah.
Score: 16/20

2009 LAPALU BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES - GENRE DEFYING

We tend to associate Beaujolais Villages with light, inoffensive, brightly fruited wines. That definition might hold true for most examples, but it certainly doesn’t for the wines of Jean-Claude Lapalu. His 2009 Beaujolais-Villages ‘Le Rang du Merle’ transcends the appellation and, in turn, one’s expectations.

14.5% ABV for a Beaujolais Villages puts this wine very much in the super-heavyweight division. Yet, this is not a clumsy or overdone wine in any sense. The bouquet is at one arresting and complex; an inviting array of floral, game and summer fruits. On the palate, the wine is rich and exuberant, yet never flirts with excess. The alcohol, while high, is barely perceptible, addS a touch of glycerol and weight in the mouth, but nothing more.

Wines like this provide ample evidence that Beaujolais is a region undergoing a slow and positive revival. It is by no means cheap for a Beaujolais Villages – around 15 Euro from one of Lyon’s finest wine retailers – but nor should it be cheap as it is an outstanding example of its type.

Many draw a link between the wines of Beaujolais and its northern neighbour, Burgundy. However, as with many quality Beaujolais, this is a wine that shares more in common with the Syrah-based wines of the Rhône Valley south of Lyon. In time, perhaps we will be happy to appreciate the wines of Beaujolais as fine wines in their own right, not for their ‘Burgundian’ or ‘Rhône-like’ nature.

2009 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES ‘LE RANG DU MERLE’
Producer: Jean-Claude Lapalu
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 15.00 Euros
Date tasted: 7 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Medium cherry red. Thick legs. Open, rich and brooding nose – profound even – animal fur, game, liqueur cherry, damson, floral notes (lilac). Rich, powerful and mouthfilling. NOT for those seeking typicity at this level, but extremely impressive for its power, richness and overall balance. Although it is a ‘big’ wine, it displays balance and harmony. Quite a remarkable wine that redefines Beaujolais Villages.
Score: 17++/20